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Firstly, thanks to everybody for their feedback . . . both rude and otherwise! Much appreciated as we are feeling really isolated and lonely . . . yeah right!
Day 19: Mount Tamborine to Brunswick Head . . . Gold Coast Monday 12th November
Good site at Mt Tamborine with horse-riding and canopy walking (ladders take you to the top of the trees overlooking the forest below can be very scary if you are not keen on heights). Tamborine was a lovely area leaning towards up-market with large houses and plenty of land. The mountain roads had sheer drops with huge trees, mainly palms, emerging from the forest floor, an amazing sight. Then onto the Gold Coast through Coomera, Southport, Surfers Paradise, Burleigh Heads, Coolangatta and Tweed Heads for those of you that are following the map. First impression of Surfers Paradise was fantastic, although the road took you through retail/commercial areas selling anything from cars, boats, fast foods outlets, sun-tanning shops and tattoo parlours, the high-rise hotels seemed totally out of place - there were hundreds of them. We drove away from the main thoroughfare and ended up at a little cul-de-sac with the beach directly in front of you with nobody else about. The apartments on the seafront were glorious, all white with smoked glass windows with a view to die for (well not literally) anything from $800,000-$1,000,000+. The beach was so long with almost white sand and extremely soft bordering clear blue seas. The surf seemed to go on forever, but not many surfers . . . apparently not a good day. Which ever direction you looked there was a haze but we couldn't make out if it was heat, water or sand (see pics). The beaches are beyond words, a picture cannot capture the vastness of it all with all the mountain ranges in the distance. Now Spencer . . . Coolangatta is a different story . . . so many surfers and they all congregated around the rocks at the headland where the waves came from different directions, it was quite unbelievable they jumped off the rocks, timing crucial, this meant that they didn't have to paddle back out each time, but it took some nerve. There was a group of four brothers the youngest being 12 that were absolutely crazy they just loved it with no fear at all. We climbed up there to take photos and to watch some of them wipe-out. Some of those lads were so good switching all the time to jump on the following wave. They were all locals and the under-currents must have been so strong. When we returned to the van we noticed that a seat had been built in the shape of a surf board to the memory of two lads that died on the same day in 2005, but they were not the only ones. By the way they are used short boards. Moved off to Brunswick Head for the night where we managed to get Tinternet.
Day 20: Brunswick to Wardell . . . Gold Coast Tuesday 13th November
Awoke to white cockatoos feeding on a tree by the van and making a terrible commotion. Decided to visit Byron Bay (by the way we are now in New South Wales having left Queensland) once again surfers out in force . . . I'm beginning to wonder if anyone works around here. It was another lovely day and another lovely location (I know what you are thinking . . . b****) we walked along the beach and watched the instructors teaching people how to surf, it's so funny looking at other people making arses of themselves, that's why we didn't try!!!!!!!! Had a short walk around the town, it was full of boutiques selling Gucci, Prada etc all too expensive so we decided to leave, but we did purchase another water melon and pineapple for lunch which we had at a lake near Lennox Head*. Next stop the lookout at LH* see pics then on to Flatrock for a swim. There were a few surfers and para-boarders, but the swimming was impossible the surf was so strong and relentless, you couldn't stand up it was so powerful but a good giggle. Found a site for the evening at Wardell just outside Ballina, the warden said that I cannot keep stopping at every beach if we intend to be in Perth by January but I feel I maybe missing out on something even more beautiful if that's possible.
Day 21: Wardell to Corindi Beach . . . Wednesday 14th November
A guy called Colin owned the site and he was a really nice bloke with time to speak and tell you about the beaches in the area. Also met a chap from Poplar in East London but he had come over in 1965 . . . he thinks he is staying here. Got away early even though it was an excellent site if a little noisy due to the Pacific Highway only 400 yards away, our first stop was at Grafton to pick up some supplies at Woolworths which we should mention is a super big chain over here and is a really good place to pick up your provisions, it has an excellent deli counter and loads of choice for everything from cream cheese to car oil and spiderman pencils which I am assured are needed! On from here we went to an out-of-the-way place called Corindi Beach and got a pitch right on the sea front (see pics) as I am running out of original script to describe these beaches. We walked the complete length of the beach in the afternoon and probably had a little too much sun!
Day 22: Corindi Beach to Macksville . . . Thursday 15th November
After Maureen's early morning run along the beach and breakfast we made our way to Coffs Harbour, a really nice up-market place and from there on to Nambucca Heads. We had a stroll around the harbour, the water was so clear and absolutely teeming with fish and also pelicans (see pic), we met the obligatory couple of Brits from Kent who kindly took our picture. In 1874 the largest ship built at that time was built here, it was called the Royal Tar whose claim to fame was that it transported a load of Aussies to Paraguay to set up a radical social republic called "New Australia" . . . it didn't work. It was then converted for cargo/passenger use and eventually went aground in 1901 off the coast of New Zealand. Don't say we don't keep you up to date on the history of our colonies. Also met our first "Sheila" an ex pat . . . but she has been here since she was six years old and is now about 60ish! She has invited us to have a drink with her when we get to Port Stephens. After lunch we went a little inland and found a camp site on the Nambucca River, should add at this point that the Aussies, both men and women, are "fishing mad" which we can fully understand. On arrival we decided to have a swim and met a couple in the pool on holiday from Sydney and obviously got chatting with them (we do a lot of chatting) the upshot of which, was they invited us to join them for dinner at the local hotel. Another really interesting evening, with really good company and an excellent meal . . . it's so cheap to eat out here and the quality doesn't suffer.
Day 23: Macksville to Diamond Head . . . Friday 16th November
Off to Kempsey and our first section of dual carriageway (yes really!) We didn't stop but made our way instead to Port Macquarie which is a very up-market place with lots of really nice hotels, apartments etc bordering the beach. Paul and Robyn who were our dinner companions had the view that the place had been over-commercialised since Paul had grown up there. Pretty hot today but there is a nice sea breeze, just the sort of weather to get burnt! From there we went on along the coast to Lake Cathie, Bonny Hills (not Doon), North Haven and ended up at a really quite site just outside Laurieton called Diamond Waters. Tranquil spot with some really lovely residential chalets (see pic), you can also see the oyster beds in the river here and should add that you can buy them for $6.50 for a dozen (that's £3!) We have inherited a really cheeky Kookaburra who sits on the post behind our van and let's Maureen hand-feed him bread . . . (again see pic).
Day 24: Diamond Head to Forster . . . Saturday 17th November
Decided to make straight for another camp site today in order to have a look round when we got there. We actually stayed at a campsite in Booti Booti National Park (sounds like one for Lee). Pretty unremarkable considering it was the most expensive site we have stayed on so far, having said that there was quick sand there with signs to tell you so but your's truly obviously ignored them and got that sinking feeling! Spent the next half hour or so trying to get the stink off. Maureen, having told me so went and had a swim in the pool, after which we gave the van a "cat's lick" the first it had had since we picked it up nearly a month ago. Tried to phone during the evening but lost all my credit so gave up on that. There were high winds all night, the highlight of which Maureen felt something crawling over her at midnight and let the campsite and more importantly me know, I had to do the chivalrous thing and kill the little b*****.
Day 25: Forster to Fingal Bay (Port Stephens) . . . Sunday 18th November
Maureen's early morning run (dunno where she gets the energy!) was followed by a lively breakfast and on the road to Seal Rocks via Pacific Palms both beautiful beaches, we were told that the seals didn't come to the rocks any more so we didn't see any or stay too long. A bit of a wildlife day really as our next port of call was Hawks Nest, we arrived just in time to witness the lifeguards getting everyone out of the water because sharks had been sited. We couldn't see any and in the interests of Anglo/Australian relations I suggested that Maureen should "test the water" as it were but she wasn't keen, especially after being attached by the antipodean monster during the night! On from there we proceeded to Nelson Bay, Shoal Bay and ended up in Fingal Bay which all comes under the umbrella of Port Stephens. It is all a bit of a let down really as everyone has been telling us how wonderful this place is, we are probably a bit blaisé now but we have seen better along the way, the whole place is very swish and developed (to a high standard) which has probably detracted from its natural beauty. The site we are in has taken over the "most expensive" mantle even though the checky cow on reception gave me a "Seniors" discount! It's amazing the site is extremely crowded (they're all getting Seniors discounts) but the beach is almost deserted.
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