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Our last day is in the capital, San Jose, with only 350,000 inhabitants but a million who come to work here and all of them weaving crazily in buses, cars, taxis or on motorbikes in one big gridlocked traffic jam. To add to the chaos a trainline runs down the main avenue and crosses the intersecting roads. For once it makes sense not to enter the yellow box junction unless your exit is clear, but it is easy to get caught out, like a guy behind our bus. As a train approaches a cop appears gesticulating, arms waving and finger turning circles at his temple, his meaning clear in any language. Thankfully we move forward before the train arrives, presumably clearing the way for the guy behind, but no doubt sucking another hapless vehicle into the vortex.
Our last night is spent at a restaurant on a hill high above the lights of the city and central valley, a breathtaking view usually only seen from an aeroplane, but disorientating as if we are really looking up at a sky full of stars.
The fortnight has seemed like a month, there is so much to see in such a small country. Where else do you get to swim in the Caribbean and the Pacific, walk in cloud forest and rain forest, climb a volcano and bathe in hot springs in a two week holiday and enjoy so much wildlife and such excellent coffee? We have enjoyed the relaxed but upbeat atmosphere, meeting people justly proud of their culture and country, in the company of a great group and an excellent guide and brilliant driver were indispensible. We could not have got so much out of the trip on our own.
Tourism is important here and tourists are made very welcome, with a lot of emphasis on ecological sustainability, energy saving and protecting the delicate sewage system by not throwing any paper down the loos, which we've got used to on many of our travels. When I get back I am looking for the basket and wondering where to throw the loo paper.
There is plenty of varied wildlife to see, but this must be threatened by increasing groups of tourists who are beginning to fill popular parks, some sadly showing no manners, pushing in front, poking cameras right up to frogs on leaves, knocking into branches and moving the leaves trying to get a better shot, obscuring the view of those of us watching from a respectful distance. A few show no respect to others, to animals or the environment and the increasing market for adventure holidays, ziplines, rappelling, white water rafting doesn't sit well with protecting the environment. There are many unspoilt areas left to explore here, forests, volcanoes and beaches in wilder areas and private reserves but these are more remote and difficult to get to and accommodation more basic. This will protect it for a while from mass tourism and Disneyfication, but it will be a challenge to Costa Rica to see if it can resist the temptation to open them up or at least preserve them from the worst effects of mass tourism.
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