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After a lot of umming and arring we both decided that we would sign up to bicycle down "the most dangerous road in the world". We met early in a cafe with the other riders for what felt like could be our last meal. We were nervous as hell but meeting the other travellers who were joining us and talking about it made the nerves ease a little.
We met our guide, Paddy, an Irishman who had been riding and guiding the road for 3 months. He put us at ease on the drive out of La Paz and up to our starting point by reciting the amount of deaths on the road to date and the average per year and how they happen etc. Obviously it was all part of the experience but noone in that bus was enjoying his facts, no matter how interesting it was!
We arrived to our starting point and found ourselves surrounded by snow and with a little more falling from the sky. We donned every piece of clothing we had brought with us and then the clothes supplied by our company (Gravity), which was a pair of skipants, a fleece and ski jacket and gloves. Looking like jelly beans we were given our bikes and helmets and given a brief run down on how to use the bikes. They were awesome bikes with 6cm suspension which meant we could run over massive rocks and we'd just glide right over it (theoretically).
After everyone had their bikes and had a little practice we all got in a big circle and as was tradition (apparently), Paddy brought out a little bottle of 96% alcohol which we all had to touch to our lips and then pour a little on our bikes for good luck and protection and the a little on the ground, for Pacha Mamma, who would protect us on our ride down. It tasted like crap and at 7am before riding down this dangerous road, did not seem like the greatest idea, but if it meant that we were spiritually protected than why not!
Our formation was a guide in front followed by the group and another guide at the back followed by our two busses with all of our stuff in it. We started off on the new road that heads down to Coroico and so it was smooth sailing along the tarred road. Everyone took it easy on this leg apart from a few crazies who took off after the front guide, who you could see descending and disappearing into the distance and fog/snow. We stopped every few kilometres to make sure that everyone was still there and also so that Paddy could explain the history of the next leg in both the ride's history and the local's .
We followed like this for about five legs. The scenery was amazing as we slowly descended coming out of the snow and into the rain and green grass and countless waterfalls. Around every corner we passed waterfalls and looking off into the distance on the mountains on theother side of the valley you could see more massive waterfalls. It was really beautiful and as we hadn't yet actually started the "most dangerous road in the world" at that point (we were still on the new road), we had time time to take it all in.
We then had the choice of making a 7km ascent that would take us to the start of the road. It was still raining and cold and Paddy made a strong recommendation against doing the ride and we all took a vote and decided that Paddy knew best. We loaded the bikes on the bus and enjoyed the warmth for the next 10 minutes before the real fun began.
There was recently a major landslide that took out the start of the road and so we had to start about 1km down the road that was reached by going around the giant hole in the road. It was a little off-putting to say the least to see this at the start of the ride but we were warmed up and confident on our bikes after riding down the nice paved road for the last 20kms. We had another briefing on the rules of the road and ofcourse Paddy threw in a few more death facts to put us all at ease...
We started slow and rode more carefully and concentrated harder than any time I can remember whilst riding a bike. It was hard to take in the amazing view in the beginning as you were scared !@#$less. We stopped at much smaller intervals now and at each stop Paddy told us a story of the next section (usually about someone dying) and how best to take particular corners etc. Kate and I stayed together for the majority of the time and towards the very back of the pack which suited us both fine. I had no desire to race ahead and act all daring, I prefered to take it all in and enjoy the ride and the view.
We rode around corners with shear drops that you could parachute off with no worries, there were points where you could barely fit one car on the road, crosses and memorials lined some spots on the side and giant rocks in the middle of the road needed to be dodged. We were warned that if you got off the bike on the left side (as most people do), you risked getting knocked over the edge, which actually happened to one poor girl (not on our trip). Vehicles heading up the road have right of way and in one instance a truck heading down with a hundred people in the back had to reverse back up a little bit to let the upcoming car past. The truck reversed off the cliff and everyone onboard passed away. These are stories we had in our head and sights we saw as we went down on top of the hype about the dangers of the road.
After a while though we became a little more confident and started to take in the view and as we did we saw giant waterfalls, beautiful mountains, birds soaring past as we rode under and through waterfalls getting drenched again (the rain stopped as we went down). As we got lower in altitude we got warmer and had to shed layers of clothing that we put in the bus. By the time we got to the bottom we were wearing summer clothes and sweating. It was such a surreal experience starting in the falling snow in skiwear and coming down through into rain, and beautiful sunshine wearing singlets. It's not something either of us have done before and loved it!
At the bottom we had to ride through a couple of rivers and try to not stop and fall in which was funny to watch. I only just got through but Kate stopped and had to walk through soaking her shoes. One girls fell sideways right into the water and wasn't too happy about it! haha We rode into a small village and we greeted by locals trying to throw buckets of water on us or spray us with super soakers, in Carnavale spirits. We got through and ended our tour in an animal sanctuary.
We had lunch here and reflected on the fact that we just survived the "World's Most Dangerous Road"! One of the guides took video footage and photos on the way down and we watched and laughed at this while we ate. We also got a quick tour of the sactuary and got to hug a couple of monkeys, saw some birds and kawatis (cross bewtween a possom and a badger... kind of). It was great intro for us as our next stop was volunteering with animals in a different animal sanctuary. It was a great way to end of one of the most amazing experiences we have ever had. I would highly recommend it for even the most average of riders. We could go as slow as we wanted with no pressure to go any faster and the views were some of the best we've seen.
We didn't realise but our company is one of the only that will head straight back up the road in the busses. We had heard this the night before (after we had bought our tickets) and so throughout the day we made our opinionobvious that we didn't want to do this. I think they may have gotten our point or they had actually assessed it on the way down and decided the rain made it too dangerous to go back up. Either way we thankfully headed back up the new road back to La Paz and two hours later we were safely backin our hostel, tired as hell but so happy with our accomplishment.
- comments
Neryl Graham I am so glad I did not know that your 'just doing a bit of bike ride tomorrow mum' was on this road as I had already seen footage of crazy people doing this. I should have worked it out but so glad I didn't.
KEITH MESSERVY You two certainly like to live on the edge - I'm sure I have aged just reading about it - look forward to photos soon. Have you two thought of writing a book! You certainly have plenty of material!!!! Love always G & G
Neryl Graham Weren't you put off just a little knowing that you were in the hands of an Irishman named Paddy, with a whole 3 months experience? Just re-read this and that just hit me as being not good.
Judith Murphy (Nons) Wow, have only just logged on and read this story. You two are amazing, experiencing every kind of adventure. You certainly tell the story so well of countries that many of us probably won't get to visit. Love Nons
Karen Mogridge Agree with Nons. WOW!!! What an adventure, one I certainly couldn't do but love reading what you are both achieving xox
marjorie whittingham I agree with the above writers! What an amazing adventure, and certainly glad you survived it. I wonder about the ones who didn't make it though. My daughter is in La Paz now, and planning on doing the death road tomorrow, Wed, Nov. 13, 2013. Wish I knew after the fact. We did finish hiking down the Grand Canyon in September with her, as well as many other hikes through the US National Parks (before they closed down!) such as Mesa Verde, Bryce Canyon and Angel's Landing at Zion, in Utah. Incredible experiences all. Here is one to ice the cake though! Congratulations on your ride and safe travels.