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Part 32: Chiang Mai......*
I was awoken at 3am by my really annoying phone alarm, it barely seemed like I had any sleep at all.
Although for the second day running, and to my surprise - no new bites whatsoever, so that was an added bonus, and a hugely welcome relief. It appeared that our plan did work perfectly.
Then, unlike some of my previous room mates, I did my best to get ready without making to much noise.
All my packing was done the previous night as to not disturb anyone. After a quick shower, and saying my goodbyes to Yvonne, I was pretty much organised, and ready to head straight off to Bangkok's other airport - Don Mueang.
Unfortunately It was to early for the sky train so I had to take the 30 minute expensive cab journey across the city. The taxi driver was a really jovial chap for this early in the morning, and was making pleasant conversation, bless him - even though I was still half asleep and struggling to keep my eyes open.
When he dropped me off I barley summoned enough energy, lugging my bags towards check in, slightly anxious as to not fall asleep again like previously in Manila, and almost missing my flight - so I downed a couple of espresso's for a quick burst of caffeine, and took the really long, slow walk to the departure gate where my Bangkok airlines plane was already waiting.
No delays, and no drama later, I boarded the plane, still very much exhausted, for the 1 hour and 10 minute flight north.
To be honest I could not have timed it any better, for as soon we took off, I watched the sunset in the extraordinarily low flight, barely skimming the mountains - It was unbelievable with the red sun rays shining through the clouds. Luckily I managed to get a few good captures of the rising sun which completely took my breath away, and this time I had a window seat for the perfect view to my right - what an awesome moment this was.
The perfectly smooth landing in Chiang Mai airport was equally awesome, and coming into the old city through the glorious rolling Himalayan mountain range blew me away too. Surrounded by lush green country side and far less hectic than Bangkok, its Thailand's 5th largest city, and referred to as 'the rose of the north' I couldn't wait to look around.
The best thing about these small airports compared to the huge international ones is within a few minutes of landing, I had my luggage and was already in a taxi on the way to my £3 a night hostel, on the outskirts of Chiang Mai - where I was given a hugely warm welcome by a lovely, smiling sweet lady named Gina - the proprietor of the small family run hostel, named 'The Dozy' which was basically her house.
She was lovely and called me by my name before giving me a run down of the city, a map, points of interest to visit, and lots of useful information.
She said to help my self to the food in her kitchen for breakfast too.
My 6 bed small dorm wasn't quite ready, so I sat in reception wondering what to do until a Swiss guy came down and sat next to me.
Gina introduced us and asked if I would like to go on a trip with him whilst my room was being prepped.
'Err..um, sure' I said
Not even asking where, the next thing, I knew we were in Gina's husband's 4x4 along with a cool Aussie couple, and on our way to somewhere!
Less than an hour ago I was still in the air, and here I was, sat there smiling in silence with 4 complete strangers, before sheepishly asking the couple where we were going. They found it all very funny and told me we were heading to a Tiger sanctuary, and then to visit a temple in the mountains.
'Sounds cool' I said.
Sometimes you strike gold with the company and this was certainly another one of those instances where I clicked with the people, conversation was soon flowing after the first few uncomfortable minutes.
We drove through the old historical city surrounded by a large stone wall, which was really the opposite to Bangkok in every sense. No skyscrapers or high rise buildings, far less crowded, more airy, certainly not as polluted from traffic, and very much liking what I was seeing.
Around 30 minutes later we arrived In Mae Rim - the Tiger sanctuary and with absolutely no idea what to expect.
We were met by a couple of really friendly staff who gave us the lowdown and a very serious list of do's, dont's and safety. I was so tired, instead just switching off and most of what they said went above my head.
I still did not really have a clue at what we were about to do.
They then led us into the sanctuary where we were met by another keeper who asked me if I wanted to see a large, medium or baby tiger so I readied my phone camera to take some shots from the out side.
The keeper who was carrying a small stick then opened the cage door and asked us to go in with him!!
This actually took a little while to sink in before I thought 'what on earth am I doing as I followed him in - I was about to get up close and personal with a huge tiger, who I thought at any given moment could eat me, should it choose to do so.
Then once inside we stood back as the keeper got the absolutely beautiful beasts attention. She was just laying down initially, my heart was beating really fast when he prompted me closer to the tiger so I could stroke her.
Trying to express the feeling in words of sitting next to one of the most fiercest predators in the world is practically impossible, but it was one of the most incredible and terrifying experiences of my life.
Gently stroking her fur at first, you could feel her incredible muscles underneath as she was taking huge purring breaths.
The keeper told me not tickle her or she will get annoyed!
Instead demonstrating how to almost slap, then firmly massage her, which I did my best to repeat.
Slowly gaining confidence, I began getting closer and practically cuddled the tiger which was an amazing feeling, and one she seemed to enjoy too.
Witnessing first hand the special bond between the keepers and tigers in such a playful way was wonderful and it was most certainly mutual too.
You hear of horrible stories about the tigers being drugged or mistreated, but there was absolutely no evidence of that here.
The sanctuary were big advocates of anti doping and anti animal cruelty, I just could not see how they would be drugged especially at the way they were interacting and playing with the keepers.
Most of the day they sleep and only maximum of 2 or maybe 3 people were allowed in at any time.
After that the keeper led us to another cage to where an even bigger tiger lay!
This one was upright and proud, nonchalantly looking at me, I inched closer as the keeper chuckled, sensing my nerves and then apprehensively put both my hands on its back before the majestic creature turned to me and fully opened her jaws, yawning.
Almost eye to eye with her looking down her throat, I could not have been any closer - her huge mouth could have easily engulfed my whole head in an instant!!
If that wasn't enough the keeper led us to yet another enclosure to meet and greet the next few tigers!
Goodness me, just one would have been enough - but there were several tigers in this one now.
After composing myself, I sat down next to one nearly 3 meters long! stroking and massaging its huge muscular back and hind legs - the muscles were incredible.
Once again these tigers could have torn me to pieces at precisely any given moment, which made me wonder could these magnificent beasts sense my adrenalin and nerves in the same way as regular cats are able too.
Finally after a few captures, just to prove to my friends back home what I just did, it was time to kiss the tigers goodbye.
Rightly or wrongly the ethical question will always be raised, but for what its worth, and based on exactly what I witnessed in the sanctuary, everything was being done to ensure the well being of the tigers.
One of the best things I noticed, was how much room they had, and how well treated they were. No one was heavy handed and they where certainly getting lots of love from the visitors, me included.
I was completely in awe and was still taking it all in after barely landing in Chiang Mai to being locked in a tiger enclosure was an almost surreal experience. But one I will never forget as long as I live.....
- comments
GINO ANOTHER GREAT BLOG BRO .
Vman Thanks bro. Was looking forward to writing this one
Anna Banana up close and personal with a Tiger what can i say, other than i do hope they are well treated, they are such magnificent creatures. Love the photos too bro xxxxx
Vman Hi Anna. Yes I kid you not it was incredible and i could sense the mutual affection between tiger and keeper. It was amazing to see. No evidence of drugs or wrong doing That was clear to me.