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We were up before our alarm call at 0630 - it's the end of winter so it was still dark. We walked to the main lodge and after a quick bowl of porridge ( more like semolina or mealy pap) we headed off to drive around the contours of Tswalu. The wind was up and it was quite chilly, the first animal was a bat eared fox curled up trying to stay out of it, this was closely followed by sable grazing on the side of the hills amongst the rocks - one was silhouetted a chains the rising morning sun, next was a group of kudu looking particularly woolly as their hairs were fluffed up to keep warm.
As we arrived at a waterhole oryx and wildebeest left but we stayed and watched a variety of birds drinking - laughing and collared doves, white backed mouse birds and beautiful violet eared wax bill and green winged pytillia. A shell duck circled as if to land then left maybe because minutes later a booted eagle flew over. Finally Liam noticed a leucistic laughing dove sitting in an adjacent tree. Coffee beckoned, as it was now nearing 9 am so we headed for another waterhole and heard the cry of the Namaqua sandgrouse approaching for their morning drink. Also in the water were a couple of stilts and their growing offspring , a slender mongoose and warthog also joined us for a quick drink. On our way back in for brunch we came across two very bloody male cheetah who had recently killed and gorged on a tsebbe. The final spot of the morning were two large male roans walking close to camp.
After brunch I filled my time with trying out the gym, sorting my photos, packing for our night under the stars and relaxing - needless to say 3pm arrived very quickly and we were off out again looking for pangolin and aardvark which come out late afternoon to feed on the termites which live underground and make their way to the surface .
We didn't find pangolin, we weren't looking for black rhino but stumbled across an old male with enormous horns - he recently lost a fight to younger male and is still recovering from the injuries he incurred! Then for the last 30-40 minutes we spent our time walking with an aardvark, who because we were downwind didn't know we were there as he scurried from bush to bush digging for and eating termites. There is no other animal like it - snout like a pig ears like a donkey and a body the size of a wallaby with the tail of a kangaroo.
Absolutely magical and it made up for our sleep out at Malory - mmmm the less said the better - no different to being in a tent and the food was cold - I am sure they could have done this far better. That said it was lovely listening to the jackals and the sounds of the night. There is the possibility of seeing a meteor shower if we look to the north in the morning while it's still dark - fingered crossed.
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