At breakfast we looked to see if anymore people were likely travel companions - there was one couple popping malaria pills but we decided unlikely as the lady had pink suede shoes and normal clothes on - the others looked like single business people.
At 0830 we checked out ready for our departure at 0845. All seven who came from South Africa were ready; we were told that we were waiting another couple - we all got on the bus - a man and the couple with the pink shoes also got on - airport bound we guessed and eventually an older American couple arrived in safari gear - all set we departed to brave the morning rush hour in Brazzaville and the seeming ocean of green taxis particularly prevalent as you negotiated roundabouts ( no noticeable priority - every vehicle for itself!) We made the airport and thanks to Iris negotiated checkin, and security to get to the holding area for our charter flight - we may have been late but the fuel for the aircraft was later - so we waited for 20minutes until it was fuelled before leaving on a bus to reach our Cessna caravan and two south african pilots. The 11 passengers and our travel companions were now clear - the American family and their guide Gavin, the older American couple and the couple, who were Austrian, with the pink suede shoes - the necessary accessory for deepest darkest Africa!
As we were a full flight we had to stop at D'Olliombo a very modern airport in the middle of nowhere to refuel - then the fun began - it's clearly modern as its the home of the President - we had to get on the ground quickly, or circle, as there was a Presidential movement. On the ground we could see a plane with a red carpet in one corner, a larger commercial plane and two helicopters, one military - on the ground. We parked on the edge of the apron and were initially able to get off as long as we were on the far side of the plane - then we had to get on as the departure time of the President got closer. Eventually he and entourage left and all the artillery returned to base and we were able to refuel - problems with the pump delayed the process but it was eventually sorted and we were only in the ground for an hour and got to experience west african security first hand. We took the chance to eat our baguettes and have a drink.
As we touched down we could see the jeeps and the next stage of our adventure was ready to begin!
The pink shoes, were moaning that it was a terrible flight and then we had a few histrionics as she went to get on the wrong jeep as clearly the family and guide were in one and the other 6 of us were together with our guide Stephanie, who was French but spoke excellent English. She is clearly a real asset with the French speaking staff and locals.
We set off for the hour and a half drive to camp learning about this new ecosystem as we went.
I had not realised the uniqueness of the area and that it is the only place in the world with secondary rainforest and savannah in such close proximity - the ongoing battle between the two is being won by the forest but in a dry period it will change. Significant in this are the termite mounds; they allow young trees to grow undisturbed and from these pockets of forest then start to develop - you could see examples of this 'forest in creation' all over the savannah.
We saw long legged pippets,who were frequently in front of the car, a Senegal coucal, black shouldered kite, yellow throated long-claw, blue breasted beeaters, male forest buffalo, a black agile mangabey monkey crossed the road in front of us and on the termite bounds we saw black, orange and red agama lizards. On the savannah there were cathedral and mushroom termite mounds while in the forest they were cleverly built and angled downwards to survive the water runoff in the wet season.
En route we met a young researcher who was setting and checking his camera traps for spotted hyena. He reckons there are 75-100 on the savannah areas - they are a species that I hadn't realised were here.
When we arrived we were greeted by the cosmopolitan staff including Laura, the camp manager from Spain , Patrick the assistant manager from Congo, Neil the general manager of the two camps from England the operational/maintenance manger from South Africa - the other guides from Zimbabwe, Ivory Coast and South Africa with the remainder of staff coming from the Congo.
As they had a meal ready, after our long trip, we all had something to eat before going for a walk in the bai (forest clearing with water, minerals and marsh) at the front of the camp. We were joined by Egor our local, university educated, Eco guide, we cannot walk without one, but he also assists Stephanie, identifying the animals and plants, including their local uses. The ultimate plan is he will become a guide and lead the groups as the experienced multinational guides leave and handover to the Congolese. The biggest consideration was what to wear as there was water and mud of variable depths - some had wellington boots, we had waterproof walking boots but decided, on advice, they were not the best - instead we went for our light waterproof shoes and our waterproof sealskinnz socks into which we tucked our trousers - the shoes clearly got wet inside as the water went over the top, but our feet stayed lovely and dry - we and everyone else were very impressed by the effectiveness of the socks; they are now on guides and managers christmas lists! The walk through the bai enabled us to see the environment first hand -the animals come here for salt, water and grazing - todays photo is looking back towards the lodge. The elephants come at night albeit they have had a couple of day sightings - more are expected when they become relaxed with friendly humans, their memories are long and , like all wildlife in the area they have been heavily poached and are consequently very skittish and wary.
A real spectacle were the flocks of green pigeons moving back and forth from the trees to the water for a drink. We also saw woolley necked storks, afep pigeons, hartlaub's duck, palm nut vulture and settling in a large tree above the camp were a family of Guereza colobus monkeys.
We are only the second week of real tourists - the camp opened for 3 months last year and has been preparing to open fully- up until now its only guests have been tour operators and specialists - photographers , ornithologists etc. It does feel very different being a pioneering tourist - one of the - 18 year old employees is still trying to understand why white people will pay lots of money just to see gorillas. The staff still have a lot to learn as tourism is still in the kindergarten but together I am sure we can help each other understand our different cultures.
Dinner was late, 8.15pm, and we had a few more histrionics from, Nora, our Austrian companion who had changed from her pink shoes - she hadn't however come on the Bai walk as she was recovering from the flight. As dinner was late she refused to eat, albeit husband Robert tucked in. Then as Stephanie explained the plan for tomorrow she exploded telling her not to bring her bird books as they had a contract which said no birding, clearly impossible but an interesting approach!!! The staff were quite taken aback, as were we, but Stephanie took the couple aside after dinner and tried to get to the bottom of the outburst... bed beckoned and I think everyone was in need of a good sleep after a very long but interesting and eventful day.