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Decisions, decisions
What I really relish about both the travelling experience and India itself is that you really do have no idea what is around the next corner; an opportunity where you were least expecting it, a new friendship, something that delights, repulses, amazes, or maybe just another religious procession, impromptu firework display or vagrant cow. For people who enjoy the see-saw of life, travelling in India provides the ultimate kick!
This time it is Delhi that has turned my assumptions (and possibly my travelling plans) on their head. Last time she was a closed book to me; unreadable, overwhelming, and pretty rude and inhospitable. This time, as I indicated in my last blog, she showed me another side and has left me intrigued and wanting more! Don't get me wrong, Delhi didnt make it easy - she was still pretty grouchy, and somewhat dismissive, you might say a reluctant hostess. Diwali night being a perfect example. I had decided that I really ought to venture out and experience the number one Hindu festival. It was a terrifying experience; the streets were just a melee of children clutching fistfuls of firecrackers, which they let off in what appeared to be the most dangerous way possible (one actually hit my ankle). The contrast with my childhood bonfire nights couldn't have been greater. Our fireworks would, as instructed, be fastidiously placed in a tin box, carried to the very end of the garden where Dad would cautiously light them and then race back down to where we were waiting at well over the recommended safe distance (and then inevitably he'd have to creep tentatively back when they didnt go off!). Health and safety hasn't exactly caught on here.
...As I was saying, this time Delhi allowed me a peek at some of her other more engaging and alluring characteristics. I was joined in Delhi by my friend from home Jenny, which provided the perfect excuse to take a tour of the city with the same company that I used in Mumbai. Something about seeing the city through the eyes of our practically teenaged guides gave it a fresher, more vibrant feel. They took us to beautiful places - the famous Jama Masjid (or Friday Mosque); intriguing places - the Jain temple where I was pleased to see, women seem to be able to participate on an even footing with men; modern places - a ride on the Delhi metro, built in 2002 and a gleaming, shining, hyper efficient contrast to its overland traffic; places of political and historic signifance - the magnificent parliament buildings where we leapt out of the rickshaw we all four were crammed in to take photos before being shooed away by officials; to and of course they took us shopping to an historic jewellry market and perfume shop. Most interesting of all, Mansi and Ashat told us about themselves; their studies in political science and computer engineering, how they had celebrated Diwali, what they cooked for dinner, which music they liked, what their faith meant to them, their dreams of travelling to England and America. As they spoke I could feel the stirrings of interest In Delhi that my evening with Emily had ignited growing.
The following day Emily (my friend-of-a-friend introduced in the last blog) had arranged for us to visit Chaya, a hostel for young boys that she has been volunteering at for the last few weeks (www.chaya.org). It has been open for just over two months and was established by Pascale, a French social worker and psychologist. After several bad experiences working with existing organisations for young people, Pascale had decided to set up his own place working with a maximum of 20 boys who had been abandoned by their families (apparently most of the hostels here have upwards of 100 children). His vision was to create an environment that approximated to a family atmosphere, where the kids could be valued and treated as individuals. There would also be an emphasis on education - but not just the traditional subjects - things like photography, film, yoga and French of course, would be used to help the kids develop skills, confidence and have some fun! Emily, who loves her work teaching English to the kids, said that she had already seen a remarkable change in the 13 young boys who are there. It sounded very impressive and I was excited about visiting the project.
I wasn't disappointed. Situated in a building that was almost big enough to be called rambling, and still managed to feel cosy, Chaya was captivating from start to finish. The children all welcomed us in English with "Good Afternoons" and "How are yous?". Pascale took us into the "TV room" (which as yet, hasnt got a TV) where two very small children were being strongly encouraged to finish eating their 'sabzee' (vegetables). Pascale explained that this is a daily battle, and with a wry grin added that sometimes he has to resort to the odd bribe! The children have school in the morning, and in the afternoon volunteers come and give the children lessons, or run activities, including Hindi grammar, music, English, French, yoga, film-making. At night the children sleep on mattresses in the rooms which are used as classrooms during the day. From experience Pascale recognised that night-time is a crucial period, particularly to children who have been traumatised. Two workers are employed to look after the children through the night and keep detailed notes of any activity that takes place, such as night-mares, poor sleep, bed-wetting etc which are often vital in helping Pascale and the team understand the children's needs and problems better.
My friend Jenny happens to be a charity fundraiser and Pascale was very interested to talk to her about this aspect of his work (and pick her brains!). The project is currently funded for a year by a larger NGO called Deepalaya (google for website), Pascale has also used his own money, and started a child sponsorship scheme. I can't remember the exact figures, but as you would expect, their expenditure is peanuts when compared with organisations offering similar services in the UK. I asked Pascale why, or how, he had chosen to work with boys rather than girls. I was quite shocked when he explained that basically any hostel for girls in Delhi can expect to be regularly staked out and raided by mafia wanting to procure girls for trafficking and prostitution; for this reason hostels for girls are located in rural areas.
Something that sits uncomfortably with me is when NGOs/charities abroad are run wholly by Westerners and I was concerned that Chaya might fall into this category. However, although the volunteers appear to be predominantly Western, the project's three employees are Indian (Pascale himself is a volunteer). The Project's coodinator, whose name escapes me, was a great guy; shyer and less outspoken than Pascale, but warm, friendly, on a level. Coincidentally he had done his social work training at the University of Moradabad, near where I was in the Uttar Pradesh and had worked in that area for some time.
Alarm bells also sound for me when organisations are selective or 'too good to be true'. Chaya is indeed selective, it has space for just 7 more boys and Pascale does select children who appear to motivated to learn and participate in education. And yes, there are vast numbers of children out there in hostels who are in desperate need. Again Pascale explained the rationale for this decision, saying that sadly when he had tried to work in those places which are probably in the most need of help, instigating change was impossible and had even resulted in his life being threatened! Twenty boys may not be many, but as the cliche goes, you have to start somewhere and doing a superb job with a few children is better than working in a place where, due to existing systems, culture and sheer numbers, you are prevented from offering anything useful. These are tough decisions that raise all kind of ethical dilemmas and questions, and I have huge admiration for Pascal and Chaya for facing them head on.
Jenny and I spent the afternoon joining in the lessons and accompanied the kids to the park for their afternoon 'let off steam' football session. However, this had to be cut short as the appearance of two blonde women in the park began attracting far too much attention and we ended up surrounded by a crowd that even Pascale, aided by protests in impeccable Hindi, could not disperse. No harm done, we were soon back at the hostel for a round of photo-taking with the boys. By the time we left, the inevitable had happened...I had started to imagine myself working there.
That evening Emily had invited us to her flat in South Delhi for dinner. As our autorickshaw careered away from central Delhi to the more suburban and middle-class, areas of the south the traffic became slightly less hectic; the cars started to outnumber the rickshaws and the cows were nowhere to be seen! The buildings got bigger, grand in some cases, the roads were cleaner, we passed parks and green spaces. We arrived at Emily's flat, which is in an attractive modern apartment complex. She explained that, although there is a definite ex-pat community here (you can buy Marmite and Kellogs cereal at the local shop!), her neighbours are predominantly middle-class Indian people, as are the majority of her friends here. Emily ordered take-away beer and chinese food for us - though we could have had Israeli/Italian/Mexican, you name it. Sitting out on her balcony, sipping Kingfisher and talking with her Spanish flat-mate, Indian friend and his French friend, there is a truly cosmpolitan atmosphere. And again, pictures form in my mind....might this be somewhere I stay for a while?
Delhi and I have now parted company and I am in Rajasthan seeing the sites, but my time there has definitely left an impresssion on me. I felt an undeniable draw to the place. I never wanted to just spend this year travelling, I was hoping to find somewhere to put down some temporary roots; stay long enough to get to know my way around, to acquire a favourite walk, know where the best chai is to be found, and become a recognised face in my local shop! Perhaps I could spend some time in Delhi; volunteer at Chaya and maybe somewhere else too, learn Hindi with Emily's teacher, use it as a base to explore the Punjab and take a 'holiday' to Kerala during January when Delhi gets more than distinctly chilly and bleak? I haven't decided what to do because my original plan was to head south and follow up a contact I have in Bangalore. But that was the whole point of this year; not to have too many plans, to see what came up and seize opportunities that felt right. So talk about love/hate relationships - this is truly 'borderline' - a place that I practically ran screaming from less than two months ago, has become a serious contender for a semi long-term stay! I dont know, because a lot could happen in the next few weeks - am currently at the Pushkar camel fair where, who knows, I might just take up professional camel racing! - watch this space....
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