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26 de Noviembre
This morning we had a 3 hour bus ride to Puerto Varas, where we found a hotel. Puerto Varas is a town by the side of a lake. Looking on to the lake, you get a beautiful view of 3 volcanoes. Our hotel was like a 3 story wooden maze - so it took a while to find our room. We spent the rest of the day walking around town and eating ice-cream with Grandma and Grandpa until we had dinner with them and then said goodbye, as they were heading somewhere else the following day.
27 de Noviembre
We got on a collectivo bus to Puerto Montt, hired a car from a place with a ferocious dog, then drove across to the ferry to Chiloe, Chile's 2nd biggest island after Tierra del Fuego. On Chiloe we went to Ancud (a town), found a campsite, went to the supermarket, then played in a park at the campsite.
28 de Noviembre
We got up earlyish, drove over lots of bumpy roads and picked up a hitch hiker. It was lucky we did, because he was just the man we needed to see the.….. PENGUINS! Captain Penguino (probably not his real name!) When we got to the beach we waited a while, then got on a trolley to be pushed out to the boat by two men in enormous welly boots. On the boat we were joined by a Chilean school trip, who practiced their English on us. We went around the rocks seeing penguins galore and there were loads of baby ones. According to Captain Penguino, this is the only place where you can see both the Magellan and the Humboldt penguin living together in the whole world! On the way back to shore we saw a sea otter lying on its back in the water nibbling something - he was so cute! After the penguins we discovered a deserted beach and played in the sand making what was lovely flat sand into very messy sand. We didn't swim though as the water was very cold.
29 de Noviembre
Before getting on the return ferry we had a walk on a beach. While we sat eating our lunch we watched sealions jumping out of the water in front of us, and penguins sticking their heads out of the water to inspect us on their way past. On the way back we found a Lilly Cormorant that had been caught by a Turkey Vulture (that we accidentally scared away) and was dying ready for the Turkey Vulture's dinner. We returned to Puerto Montt ready for our flight to Punta Arenas in the morning.
30 de Noviembre
We got on the plane to Punta Arenas. At the airport we waited for ages for a bus to Puerto Natales, but they were all full, so we decided to go to Punta Arenas. In Punta Arenas it took us ages to find somewhere to stay, so when we finally did we had tea and went to bed.
1 de Diciembre
Just before lunch we got on a bus to Puerto Natales which is close to Torres del Paine National Park, where we were planning on going trekking. On the way we saw some Rheas (big birds that are a lot like Ostriches). In Puerto Natales, again it took a while to find a hotel but when we did it was very nice. Only 18 days left until we get home!
2 de Diciembre
Preparing for our trek in Torres del Paine, we went for a mega-shop. We bought: Instant mash ×3; Lentils; Spaghetti ×3; Pasta Sauce ×6; Rice; Packet soup ×20; Tortillas ×4; Bread rolls ×4; Porridge ×2kg; Sugar; Powdered milk; Breakfast bars ×3 boxes; Cheese; Mayonnaise; Stuff in a pot ×2; Milo; Biscuits ×3 packets; Dried fruit ×3 fruits; Grated parmasan ×3; Onion powder ×2; Gravy powder × 2; Hard boiled sweets x lots! We didn't do a lot more today, other than go to the tourist information centre. 17 days!
3 de Diciembre
We got the bus to Torres del Paine National Park, and arrived at about lunch time at a place called the Administration. From there we started our trek - the 'W' route. We began by walking to a campsite named Paine Grande. It was 17 km. It took about 5 hours. Plus it was windy and rainy. To start with we were nearly being pushed over by the wind. The rain felt like needles in my eyes. The only thing that kept us going were the sweets. I think Dad was the only person who was thoroughly enjoying it - but I didn't dislike it! When we got to the campsite we pitched the tent, and found a lovely warm hut to eat in so we made tea. While we were making tea, we talked to a Dutch couple that we met at the airport in Punta Arenas.The campsite was near a beautiful blue lagoon called Lago Pehoé. 16 days left!
4 de Diciembre
Still very windy, in fact so windy that our tent nearly blew away. Dad was very upset as he had thought it was a great tent that would never blow away. Today we went for an even longer walk up to a glacier called Glacier Grey with a lake named Lago Grey beneath it. In total it was about 22 km and took 7 hours (not including the lunch stop) - in other words a very long way. But although it took a long time, when we got there the view of the glacier was amazing. Right in front of us was a massive iceberg. Suddenly we heard a thunderous crash and a huge chunk came off the iceberg, and fell into the water creating a big wave. On the way back we had a good view of a nearby mountain covered in snow. Only 15 days until we get home!
5 de Diciembre
Today we walked 7.6 km, which took about 2½ hours to Campemento Italiano, then walked to the first view point in the Valle del Francés. Walking up the valley we spotted a couple of avalanches. At the view point we could see both the back of the Torres (the towers the park is named for) and the mountains on the other side. It was beautiful. After that we walked for another 2½ hours (5½km) to Campamento Los Cuernos, and stayed the night there. 14 more days!
6 de Diciembre
Today we walked to Campamento Torres. We walked for 19km up hill with our rucksacks on - which is hard. It took nearly 7 hours walking - but that is including a lunch stop and toilet stop. When we were having lunch (and eating the tortillas that we had been given on the previous day), we waved at some people that passed us who we had previously met. 2 German men that we met on the first day; 2 American men we met on the 3rd day; an English couple whose tent had blown away on the 1st day; and some people that we had met on a bus in Puno; and opened a wine bottle for on Easter island.From there we carried on to Campamento Torres, and set up camp. While tea was being made, the same tour group as the one who gave us the tortillas kindly gave us their left over pasta!
7 de Diciembre
This morning we went up to a view point, to see the Torres. It was a great view: there were 3 massive pieces of rock, towering over a grey-blue lake. An American tour group asked Mum to take some pictures of the group and the Torres. She ended up having to take 10 different pictures with 10 different fancy cameras, she thinks that she missed the heads off in most of the pictures, I think she did it on purpose because they were Americans! We walked back to the campsite, picked up our bags, and went down the mountain. At the bottom we passed the fancy-pants hotel and headed for our final campsite. 12 more days until we're back at home!
8 de Diciembre
In the morning we played by the river, making a bridge, until Jack fell in so we had to stop. After a bit, we crossed our bridge and started on the last 5 miles, back to the bus. On the walk we saw lots of Guacomoles - Oops I mean Guanacas*. When we arrived we hung around waiting for the bus. When the bus arrived we got on it and went back to Puerto Natales. 11 more days!
* A 4 legged, furry animal remarkably similar to: llama/alpaca/vicuña (delete as appropriate)
9 de Diciembre
I went to the laundrette with Mum and wrote this. In the afternoon we went to a so called museum in the back room of a secondary school, filled with crazy, badly stuffed dead animals - I wonder if they got the school kids to do it? Some weird cat-like things had bright green eyes, and an owl looked like it had googly eyes and too much stuffing in its head. Jack loved it, but the rest of us thought otherwise. Only 10 days left!
10 de Diciembre
We went on a bus all day and the bus went on a ferry across the Magellen channel to get to Tierra del Fuego. We crossed the border to Argentina, and later, arrived in Ushuia. We arrive home in 9 days!
The Story of Tierra del Fuego
In 1520, Ferdinand Magellen was sailing along the straights (that are now named after him) on his way around the world when he noticed that the nearby island was covered in smoke (from the fires of the Selk'nam tribe). He later wrote a letter to the King of Spain, saying he had just passed Tierra del Humo meaning The Land of Smoke. Having received the letter, the King of Spain thought it would sound much more exiting as Tierra del Fuego (The Land of Fire). So that is why Tierra del Fuego is called Tierra del Fuego.
Garage and the Whippet less then a week left now till you come home . looks like an incredible place with awesome views I'd love to be where you are and see glaciers and iceburgs and avalanches it all sounds amazing see you soon xxx
Dec 14, 2013
mcelenys We are all looking forward to seeing you and your amazing photos too. Enjoy the rest of your big adventure. Helen Andy Jacob and Sam
Dec 14, 2013
Tammy 19km uphill with your rucksacks on??? I'm exhausted just thinking about that! Sounds like it was a great trek. Looking forward to seeing you 4 sleeps time xxxxx
Dec 14, 2013
Adele RGS High Wycombe Thank you so much for such a fantastic travel blog Josie it sounds as if you have all had the most amazing time. Its been truly inspirational reading about your adventures
Dec 14, 2013
grandma Well if you had done your trek a few days earlier we could have fed you in the fancy pants hotel cos thats where we stayed. Dont tell Jack he missed a breakfast!! Arent penguins fantastic! And glaciers and icebergs and what an amazing colour. Enjoy Buenis Aires. See you Wednesday in Manchester. On Grandpas BIG birthday.xxx
Dec 14, 2013
Grandad So the end of your trip is nigh! Well done both of you with our blogs/reports. Mentioned before, I await the book. How about South Africa next time? We can offer just about everything and a bit more! Glad you had such a nice day on my Birthday (8 de Diciembre!) Wondered where you were!
Dec 16, 2013
Wendy Oldfield Only just got round to reading your blog - you'll probably be home by the time you read this. Sounds like a great end to fabulous trip - how will you ever cope with life back here? Looking forward to seeing to all.
Dec 17, 2013
- comments
Garage and the Whippet less then a week left now till you come home . looks like an incredible place with awesome views I'd love to be where you are and see glaciers and iceburgs and avalanches it all sounds amazing see you soon xxx
mcelenys We are all looking forward to seeing you and your amazing photos too. Enjoy the rest of your big adventure. Helen Andy Jacob and Sam
Tammy 19km uphill with your rucksacks on??? I'm exhausted just thinking about that! Sounds like it was a great trek. Looking forward to seeing you 4 sleeps time xxxxx
Adele RGS High Wycombe Thank you so much for such a fantastic travel blog Josie it sounds as if you have all had the most amazing time. Its been truly inspirational reading about your adventures
grandma Well if you had done your trek a few days earlier we could have fed you in the fancy pants hotel cos thats where we stayed. Dont tell Jack he missed a breakfast!! Arent penguins fantastic! And glaciers and icebergs and what an amazing colour. Enjoy Buenis Aires. See you Wednesday in Manchester. On Grandpas BIG birthday.xxx
Grandad So the end of your trip is nigh! Well done both of you with our blogs/reports. Mentioned before, I await the book. How about South Africa next time? We can offer just about everything and a bit more! Glad you had such a nice day on my Birthday (8 de Diciembre!) Wondered where you were!
Wendy Oldfield Only just got round to reading your blog - you'll probably be home by the time you read this. Sounds like a great end to fabulous trip - how will you ever cope with life back here? Looking forward to seeing to all.