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And so onto Sihanoukville, out chosen destination for Christmas 2010 - we figured if we were going to be away from home for Christmas, we might as well go to the extreme opposite of the British winter-time and have it on the beach! It was just two hours further up the coast from Kampot, plus half an hour to repair the minibus's burst tyre, so an easy journey. And the few initial fears I had about it being too big, brash, resort-like, and perhaps full of undesirables (local and Gary Glitter-esque), were quashed pretty much within an hour of being there. There may be parts of the town that fit that description (and we didn't ever bother wandering far enough to find out either way, to be honest), but the small backpacker pocket certainly isn't one of them. Serendipity beach and the track leading down to it were just what we were after. A chilled out vibe, but a little more lively than Kampot, with a plethora of cafes, bars, guesthouses and tiny shops.
We were stung for twenty-five dollars a night because we'd booked via Hostelworld, thinking it'd be important to make a reservation in advance, for a room that would have cost fifteen dollars had we just walked in through the door, but nevertheless, Ocean Walks Inn is a really nice guesthouse with a great terrace bar, overlooking Serendipity Street (that dirt track I mentioned), serving decent big coffees and draft Angkor beer (and other things, of course, just not of much relevance to me). Owned by Matthew from Huddersfield, who must be a good few years younger than me, who's traded in hardcore support (one of those who tried to get to every ground in the league, on top of all home games) of his hometown team for Cambodian sun, sea and sand, and Sky Sports from afar. And a Cambodian girlfriend, by the look of it.
Anyway, not much to our Sihanoukville Christmas story, as it was one of lounging and gluttony, not adventure and exploration. Christmas Eve consisted of a bit of chilling out in the morning, blog updating for me, some Christmas shopping in the afternoon (on our five dollars per person budget!), and then a few (too many) drinks in the evening (sambuca included).
Christmas Day started with opening the aforementioned gifts (mostly edible, a couple of hats, and some tat). Additionally, however, Sara had already smashed the five dollar budget by buying Paula and I some very nice T-shirts before she'd left, and some more fantastic gifts turned up, via the Sara courier service, from Em, including Christmas pudding, cranberry sauce (both delivered in stockings, no less!), some Christmas crackers, and, best of all, chocolate coins! Probably part of by Christmas stocking from Santa, via Mum, for the last thirty-three years - excellent not to have had to miss a year! So big thanks again to Sara and Em! Then came a guesthouse room screening of the Muppets Christmas Carol on our netbook, before heading down to the beach for Christmas dinner! And yes, we did manage to find a proper Christmas dinner, of a veggie variety (no, carnivores, that's not an oxymoron), with roasties, mash, stuffing, gravy, peas, beans, cauliflower, carrots, etc, plus a mound of veggie something in the middle, as turkey replacement. Unfortunately, Sara managed turkey but not much else, as she was suffering from a bug picked up the day before, which limited her Christmas Eve night out to about half an hour and a pint of water, before having to retire for the evening. Very timely! I'm happy to report she's not (Sara has just pointed out to me that that should read "now", not "not" - oops!) back in good health, though.
And then Boxing Day was spent on the beach! Zero activity, just a pleasant day of lounging, reading, snacking on fruit shakes and mini-lobsters, periodically declining offers of sunglasses, bracelets, pedicures and massages, and then a couple of beers in the evening, in the amazingly comfortable Cambodian bowl-shaped basket chairs (that Thai cushions don't come close to matching), watching the sun set over the sea horizon. Very nice, as alternatives to England go!
Next destination, the capital, Phnom Penh, for a couple of days before heading North-West to Siem Reap for New Years Eve and some temple-spotting.
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