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21.Into Kenya - 17 November to 24 November 2009
Our first stop in Kenya was Nairobi, after crossing the border from Tanzania on Tuesday 17 November. Busy, busy, with traffic chaos, we were glad we eventually found our campsite at Jungle Junction before dark. We met up with people we knew - the French family we had met at Marangu, below Mt Kilimanjaro, and also Omar and Bridget, the Egyptian and Australian we had met at Mikadi Beach, and again in Zanzibar. It absolutely poured while we were at Jungle Junction, our first seriously heavy rainfall.
After driving around Nairobi, from shopping centre to shopping centre and completing all our 'city jobs', we spent the next night at Karen Camp in a more outer suburb of Nairobi. From there we set off for Lake Naivasha, a beautiful drive from Nairobi as the road descends into the Rift Valley, and on the way to the lake we passed through numerous Fresh Flower Horticultural Farms, which are huge enterprises that export fresh flowers direct to the UK. We arrived at Fisherman's Camp, a beautiful park setting overlooking the lake, with a great bar and restaurant. During our two night stay, we saw the resident Black-and-White Colobus Monkeys with long white manes down their backs.
The next day we drove the rough road right around Lake Naivasha, driving past Elsamere of Joy Adamson "Born Free" fame, and on to the main road between Nairobi and Nakuru. Here we encountered again the normal hectic African traffic - mini-bus taxis careering in and out of the traffic and stopping unexpectedly to drop off or pick up passengers, cars passing on blind curves or hills, and buses travelling way too fast, especially downhill. We reached Lake Nakuru National Park and purchased our expensive 24-hour permit. Lake Nakuru is famous for its population of Flamingos and before the mid-90s, there could be up to two million of them on the lake. Now, however, they are less predictable and are found at other lakes in the area as well. Those that are there are still a beautiful sight on the lake. Before we left we treated ourselves to a great lunch at the Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge which from the side of a hill has a magnificent view over the lake.
Our next stop was Kembu Campsite at Njoro, which is on a working farm with dairy cattle, and also "alternates between wheat and dust" according to the owner. They missed out on the long rains last year and it has been very dry. The owner was a very interesting fellow, who for three months of the year works in the film industry throughout East Africa, and using his local knowledge and understanding provides advice to the film crew on logistics and locations. He has just been involved in a documentary series called 'Night' which has filmed nocturnal animals in the wild. Here we bought farm eggs, the best we have eaten so far on the trip.
From Kembu Campsite we drove over the Equator for the first time, though due to the high elevation, the temperature was quite cool and brisk. The Naiberi River Campsite at Eldoret had been recommended to us and it was a fantastic place, with great facilities for camping, as well as lodge accommodation and an amazing swimming pool and beautiful grounds. The bar/restaurant had a great atmosphere, with a central fireplace, which amazingly enough was needed, though we were so close to the equator. We had a good meal and a very interesting chat to the owner who invited us to visit his woollen mill and factory in town next morning before we left. He also suggested we visit the local cheese factory where you can taste many different cheeses before purchasing.
The next morning, after receiving some complimentary fresh vegetables before we left the campsite, we thoroughly enjoyed our tour of the factory where they produce among other things, blankets and school sweaters - school uniforms in Kenya are compulsory. The guide took us right through the factory which employs 2800 local workers, and we also had a tour of the woollen mill across the road, which was extremely interesting for Brian, having been so involved with so many sides of the wool industry at home. We also bought some great cheese and fresh milk from the cheese factory. A wonderful visit to Eldoret,
From there it was on to the Ugandan border, but we will be coming back to Kenya after visiting Uganda and Rwanda.
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