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Porto
Today was a good day! Sunshine, and a fabulous day in Porto. Enjoyable!
We began with an early rise and a lift to the station. Another couple with whom we spent yesterday afternoon, drinking tea and chatting about nothing in particular, offered us a lift, which we took happily. The railway, which is really a 'light railway' or tram, ran really well, but getting a ticket proved a bit of a challenge. The ticket machines were not working properly but after a struggle, and some help from other local travellers, we got the ticket and caught the train. This was very fortuitous as on our return trip we saw the ticket inspectors catch two non- payers who had to hand over all of their details. As is the case in many countries this meant showing their ID cards, which, I presume, that they must carry at all times. They did not seem to argue much over the issue. The journey was surprisingly quiet and quick, dropping us of in the middle of Porto.
The city is to my eyes somewhat unusual in that it seems to have the appearance of like what I imagine an old colonial town may have looked like. Buildings are not new, some are in various stages of disrepair, but all of this offers a old world charm. The building facades are often ornate, some have extensive sculpturing, others have painted metal balustrades and verandas where people could sit in the sunshine (or, as today, hang out their washing) and, in some cases, the detailed tiling which gives them a colourful hue. Walking along the streets the other noticeable fact is that many shops are 'old fashioned' in their design and layout, a sort of 1950's style. which again adds a certain charm to the place. There does not seem to be the international shop brands on display. Most are, I suspect, locally owned and run. On the north side, in Porto proper, it is clearly apparent that Portugal has been having economic problems as many shops are closed and there is clear evidence of abandoned businesses and unfinished building work.
What I soon discovered, Meryl knew as she had done the reading, was that Porto is built on the banks of a steep sided valley We had arrived at the central metro station of Trinidade and we headed off down the slope only because that is where most of the important bits of the town lie. Passing the Camera Municipal, a large, elaborately decorated building with its own extensive frontage, we passed the main railway station, and headed into the side streets.
Our descent to the river passed many of the tourist shops selling the usual. Well, maybe more football shirts than usual as the World Cup looms but otherwise the usual range of tat and junk that for some reasons attracts foreigners.
Once at the river the immensity of the impact of the Port Houses becomes apparent. One can see the names of all of them on the far bank in what the locals call Vila Nova de Gaia, a newish town. Its newish in the sense that it developed after a row over shipping tolls in the 13th Century. Subsequently, when Port wine became a tipple of choice this town evolved into something special. Seen from a the north bank where rows of restaurants, bars and ticket sellers for the river cruises ply their trade, can be seen adorning the tops of their 'lodges' or 'armazens', the names of all of the famous companies; Taylors, Sandeman, Warres, Graham and so on. The fundamental question for us; which one to visit?
Before making that decision we had top cross the river so we wandered up to the impressive double bridge, the Ponte de Dom Luis 1, built in the 1880's and having a direct link with a certain G. Eiffel. It was on crossing the bridge that certain similarities with other famous river fronts we have visited, eg Bangkok and Saigon/Ho Chi Minh City, but it was only fleeting. Lunch in a waterfront restaurant, with local style food and wine - a shared glass of Douro white and red, pleasant with good noses and taste in the mouth but little taste in the throat - followed by a 'free' glass of Tawney, actually quite pleasant and presumably from the oldest Port house, at least that is what it claimed.
Now came the decision and Ramos Pinto was the choice based on its classification (according to my research) as having excellent Port and table wine. It proved very interesting. Pinto wines were developed from the early 19th century. The tour revealed that its approach to publicity was based on…..sex. Yes, we have nothing new today. Some its posters were both amusing and revealing. In fact, one item the company developed, a sculpture to wanted to give to Rio de Janeiro was rejected because of the revealing nature of the ladies clothes! Another poster suggested that men would select Pinto Port rather than the delights of three naked ladies. Apparently Adriano Pinto, the company boss thought such advertising and bottle labels won sales. The tour was much as any tour and the end result was two glasses of Port which I found very acceptable: a white and a Ruby.
Now satisfied and relaxed, we wandered back to the station in a slow drizzle, which by the time we got home had turned into a rather heavier, continuous downpour that remained all evening. Still, a good day out and very enjoyable.
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Tom Sutton Great Western Wines are recommending Ines Vinho Verde 2013 - something for you to track down and try!