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Fri 1st June
Arrived in Melaka around 12:30pm at the bus station - what a relief you actually arrive where they say you will! So we looked up the directions and ambled round looking for the panaramic bus no. 17. Which, among the market stalls and other bus firm counters we found in the domestic bus section. 2RM to Dutch Square in bay 17. Thank you. Out we go and sure enough there was bay 17, there was the bus and there were the passengers. About 20 mins later we pass the 'Discovery Café' (our hostel) and got off at our stop. A simple walk back - having already spotted it. Busy roads to cross but only two lanes wide. In and checked in. A Chinese/Malay man checked us in, who mentioned, with a glint in his eye how handsome Frank's passport photo was "...like Jesus Christ eh? Hair and beard?" Big laughs all round. A quick explanation about breakfast, lower prices at the bar for guests and then another man showed us to our room... in another building across the road. Hmm, ok. Mostly full of dorm rooms, a set of stairs - shoes off before walking on the wooden floor (still wearing our backpacks - awkward!) our room was a small double room at the front of the property over looking the busy main road. Air con AND a fan, single glazed window again (like Hong Kong) with mesh to keep out the mossies.
There was a café opposite offering meat pie for lunch. So thinking of our grumbling bellys we indulged. Met an Australian retireè called Rod who had been living in Melaka for the last 6 weeks with his wife. He gave us the low down on the surrounding area. We spoke to a Japanese woman, Ayako, who makes and sells jewellery at the café. She was cooking dinner at a little place over the river. She invited us, and Rod (they seemed to know each other). Lunch and coffee had, we went off to see what's in Melaka's old town. We were staying just inside an area called 'Little India' over the river is 'China Town'. Melaka has a lot of Portuguese and Dutch history, along with Malaysia's usual Indian/Chinese settler influences too. The streets look worn out from storms and in need of a lick of paint, or two, although there is a good mix of bright and cheerful colours on most building fronts, others are white. (A theme that was in China too.) But there's a groove almost to this place. A beating heart if you will. Further along other streets there are more shops, cafes, gift and souvenir shops and bars. There are a lot of antique and art shops along the streets too. Every bar/café/eatery has a plethera of antique or vintage furniture/bits and bobs in it. We found the street Ayako had told us - about with the Chinese and Hindu temples, and a Mosque all within a few metres of one another - dinner was along this road. Sure enough we found a sign with her name on and a menu 10RM for dinner, this place was a must visit for later then.
Heading towards the middle of town there is a 'Hard Rock Café', behind that is Dutch Square and a queue of Trishaws. They're bicycles with a side cart attached. Tourism seems to have prompted them to be decked out in decoration, neon lights and a massive speaker attached blaring loud music - just the one song mind. The decorations range from 'Hello Kitty', 'Spiderman', 'Pokemon' to 'The Minions'. Not quite as authentic as one would hope
Back to the hostel to chill and then out for dinner.
'Ayako's Kitchen' is in a bar called 'Shantaram' owned by a old Indian man called Dus.
Chicken for dinner with a tasty assortment of onions, mash, veg and a mushroom stuffed with cheese. Great cooking Ayako and only 10RM (£2). Rod was there with his wife Joanne (she was the cook in the cafe earlier). Some good chatting, swapping of stories was had with beers ('Brewer') 5RM. Rod and Joanne said goodnight.
Settled in for the night, Frank began to pluck and tune the guitar in the bar. Soon enough we had a small session going. Ayako took the opportunity to sing some traditional Japanese songs. 'Sarkuda' was one and a song from 'Harps of Burma' was another. She had a beautiful singing voice, pitch perfect with a clear ring to it.
The songs too had a beautiful air to them. She was in full flow telling us stories of forbidden marriage to a young man in her youth (she's in her 60's) and not knowing of his feelings until it was too late for the both of them. Punctuated with her singing. Frank sang some Irish tunes, an Indonesian man called Fahil sat in with us too and we discussed differences or rather similarities across the world.
'No matter where you are a cat will always say "Meow'".
A wonderful, spontaneous evening.
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