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Wednesday 9th May
Sick all day in bed. I was very rough again with coughing, sneezing etc and now a congested head. Frank chilled out a little more in the room too. The double room has no external windows but it is a large room for a hostel's scale. The bed was king size, fairly soft (in comparison with the Wheat hostel in Qingdao) with bedside units either side, Frank got an extra pillow. We were still on the corridor to the roof top area but it wasn't as close. However, there was a hell of a comotion in the corridor in the early hours - between 3 and 4am. It started off distant sounding, but that could've been us waking from our sleep. There was a Chinese woman shouting and hollering. We think she was arguing with someone. Then there was a crash of something... we heard walkie talkies and male staff talking. It sounded like she was being escourted off the premisies... the mystery thickens. In the morning the cleaners - usually only one, whom we nicknamed 'Consuela' does each floor - were busy making up the room again and sweeping up something broken. A 'Do not disturb' sign was hung up on the door after that...hmmm? It gave us something to muse while we rested up.
In the late afternoon we had a short walk around the smaller hutong to the hostel's right. It served as a nice change and not too challenging.
Earlier in the week yet another character arrived at the hostel and was now in the bar. A slobby old Frenchman, (in his 60's) who now had a guitar in the bar ... which he started "playing" ... then he started to "sing". He got little more attention than a few side eye looks, if that helps indicate his quality. He was mostly ignored, including by us. We named him 'Lawrence of Paris'.
Frank was even asked if he would like to play, by the dude's buddy - a lad who resembled Groucho Marx (honest!) - Frank shook his head!
After dinner we chatted with 'Mary Berry' telling her about the wall, scooters, the Chinese and their driving etc. We all came to the conclusion that pedestrian crossings in China were more of a suggestion than anything else! Tee hee.
Thursday 10th May
Feeling rested again we took our time in getting to the next big hitter of tourist must see's - The Temple of Heaven. It's situated in a large walled park which costs ¥10 to enter (the park only). We thought we may get a good glimpse of the temple and didn't get the ¥15 temple ticket. The park is a very merry space with people doing Tai Chi or dancing. On the shaded board walk to the temple people were sat on the banisters with family and friends playing cards, dominos, a Chinese game of cards or a form of draughts. (Not all at the same time obviously, they're good but not THAT good). It all felt like a massive picnic in the woods. Very relaxed, calm and chilled. The only peolpe moving fast were western tourists. At the foot of the gateway to the temple (which we didnt get a good glimpse of) we caved in and bought tickets ¥17 - should've got 'em at the entrance! Well we are trying to keep to a budget.
The temple was tall and striking with its blue and terracota well maintained colours. You couldn't go inside so a tiptoe stretch served as best it could amongst other curious eyes. Having had our fill we went back out into the park to have a mini picnic of our own with bread, water and biscuits. The air seemed fresher among the trees - another good tonic. Despite still having bad congestion and a slight headache I did feel so much better. Taking the day slow helped too. Back down the stairs to the metro, through the security and onward to our Happy Dragon Saga Hostel.
For our evening meal we ventured to "Snack Street" in Wangfujing district (not a typing error, honest). A giant spring roll, spicy bacon and egg crepe type thing and not so fresh/nice steamed buns. Sitting next to us, gathering an admiring gaze from Frank, a man was eating what looked like a half leg of pork! We padded around a little more to absorb the atmostsphere then wandered back, took a wrong turn, re-established our route, while witnessing bats fly throught the trees above and China's very own 'Hell's Angles' ride by on their Harley's. There are more motorbikes in Beijing. More money I guess. Some sports bikes pimped up with neon lighting but generally more motorbikes.
Drinks in the bar for dessert on our last night, and no sooner than we were wondering what 'Mary Berry's' real name was, no sooner did she walked in. We mentioned about wondering about her name and she said the funniest thing,
"Oh I think it's better that you don't know people's real names. It's much more fun giving people a character. Better to remember them too."
How weird is that?!? (We didnt tell her what we called her) but she's right. Her name is Joanne and she sat with us and talked some more. She was born and lived in the British Virgin islands and had travelled/sailed when she was young. Itching to do it again whilst working as a nurse, saving for the money she inevitably fell in love and had a family. Now, her children travel - her son lives in China. So she got to go travelling once more. Her story was tinged with sadness though as her husband had been murdered a long time ago. During the long trial, those involved threatened jury members and beat up the witnesses. Real nasty stuff. On the 10th annivesary of his death she went to Hati to help after the earthquake there. She said it sounded grim but she knew she could really help and she needed the distraction. So her volunteering and travelling started again from there. She now has a part time job teaching english to a Chinese student. She definitely doesn't bake cakes anyway!
At the end of the night a small gang of younger travellers were sat in the corner and called us over. They asked us to play the 'guess how old I am game' - I cheered one person up and seemed to distroy the other with my age predictions. Well, you will ask!
Among them we met a young dutch man called Yan, who was going to be staying in Xi'an the day after we would arrive in the sister hostel to ours (on the same road so Phelim said earlier). You never know maybe we'll see each other again. Night night.
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