TK - Five of us signed up to do a kayak expedition. We were taken up river 12 KM then walked through rice fields and villages to a stream that was coming out from a cave. The guide gave us rubber rings and we jumped in the stream and paddled into the cave. The water was just about warm enough, but even so there were plenty of screams from the girls! We were all taken aback by the sheer size of the place, we pulled ourselves along by a rope and marveled at the stalactites (the ones that hang down!) and the fissures which went on as far as the eye could see. They gave us a BBQ lunch then escorted us to the launch point for the kayaking. Vang vieng had developed a reputation as a party down, where backpackers would either kayak or float in a rubber ring down stream stopping at regular bars along the way in makeshift riverside huts. Several people were getting injured or killed each year so they have put a stop to it, so the activity has a much more relaxed vibe now. We had a brilliant afternoon, paddling down the river, we stopped at the one bar that was open then finished up in front of our hotel. The town is much quieter now, so it will have to re-invent itself if it wants to survive, there are loads of bars in the town that are pretty dead. It shouldn't be hard as it has so much natural beauty all around.

Jess and I went for a Lao massage. This one was slightly different to the one we had in Bangkok. There it was very professional with air-con and big strong ladies, here it was a bunch of skinny teenagers and hospital style curtains for privacy. These screens silhouetted the masseuses and for a minute I thought I was on the set of the crying game as mine was pretty androgynous... well dressed like a girl with a mans voice! Jess' masseuse was altogether more feminine, and had no hesitation in providing a comprehensive service!