Hello again. Brief update before I leave for Saigon tonight. Am utterly dreading Saigon actually, after the relative peace and quiet of Hoi An... not sure I can cope with much more motorbike dodging. If it comes to the worst, I'll just stay in my room and read (reading The Quiet American at the moment, how fitting, and a fantastic read) and only venture outside to go to the Chinese consulate for a new visa etc. Spent the morning on one of the most fantastic beaches on the planet, looked very much like the photograph actually. Had a good few hours chilling and listening to music, bliss. Also to report the first potential casualty of this journey... my travel towel has gone AWOL. Not that much of a surprise really, the cleaner in the hotel thought it belonged to the hotel and hence passed it on to the laundrette... there's a tiny chance they'll be able to unearth it but I doubt it. Oh well, that reminds me as to why I didn't want to get a white one in the first place, grrrr, too common. My beloved, 7 quid, microfibre, extra small when packed, extra light and extra quick-drying travel towel... I will miss you terribly. Tummy's feeling a bit odd again. Walking 10km to the beach and back in the hot midday sun probably wasn't one of my greatest ideas, and then afterwards I downed about a litre of cold water... my kidneys are probably close to shutting down, poor things, I'm sorry. As a result I had to leave a gorgeous vegetable thali (I know, not really a native Vietnamese dish) mostly uneaten, scandalous!! Had some fantastic Vietnamese food yesterday by the way (finally), including fish in banana leaves which was one of the nicest things I've ever tasted. Not sure whether I commented on this yesterday but there are loads of places in Hoi An advertising ear waxing... is that a common western demand? Mmm, I wonder. Will go and mentally prepare myself for Saigon... Hope you're well everyone, lots of love Jn x