Dublin to Galway

We hired a car, a Toyota Aventis and if we keep the car for a week it will be a seventh-day Adventist. We left Dublin (still raining heavily) and aimed for Galway with our trusty Tom Tom we steered to Nass, Kildare, Portlaoise and to a very small village Mountmellick. Why there? Because I had read that I could find a woollen mill and Irish linen. The village was particularly small the mill was no where to be seen so we went onto Tullamore, the home of Irish Whisky. Cute with very narrow streets, soggy, windy and very very wet. Torrent rivers and an old Bond Store that displayed "Tullmore". It was a pub, restaurant, museum and gift store. In need of a loo we braved the gale force wind and rain and headed in. The Tullamore Dew Heritage Centre is on the banks of the Grand Canal (the torrid flow of water indicated that a lot of rain had fallen) in the centre of town. The Tullamore Distillery was founded in 1829, and the Great Famine was in 1845. Too drunk to work? Keith told me that the Irish led the world in whisky sales mostly to America, but because of the prohibition in America, it destroyed the Irish producers, they really never recovered. The Scots' saw an opportunity years later and have led the market ever since.
The road between the river and the Tullamore Centre is narrow, barely wide enough for one car, it is a busy road but there's no provision for traffic control, we watched as (only in Ireland) the drivers either forced their way through or the more timid waited moving forward and then reversing to avoid a head-on collision. Two way traffic, no lights, no order, first in best dressed approach.
The rain and wind had strengthened buffeting the car and making it difficult to see or do much let alone drive, we headed for Galway. I read that Galway has more rain than what even the Irish liked. It's the wettest city. Can't really believe it, as all of Ireland is windy and wet.
We stayed at Barnacles Hostel,
We walked around the city quay and the evening was balmy as the wind had ebbed and the rain eased. Could be sunny tomorrow…naaaaa.
North of Galway city, the Connemara Peninsula matched the beauty of Ben Nevis of Scotland, wild, rocky, wet and treeless. It was still raining and the mist hung around the hill tops creating a mystical picture where one could believe the "little people" or ancient ghosts could be found. The chill and rain added to the wild nature of the Connemara, dotted with ancient lochs; masses of rocks; rock fences; rock-built homes; moss; sedge no trees; and black-faced sheep. Actually there are few people living around here.
It was suggested that when we visit Roundstone, a costal town, we had to taste the seafood chowder at O'Dowd's Pub. We were not disappointed with the chowder nor the view over the 'wee' (a touch of the Scots has somehow crept in) fishing boat harbour. It's a small town quiet at the moment but in the summer time this place must teem with people and activity.
The roads around here are narrow, very narrow, (about 1.5 lanes wide with stone fences along each side and I don't know if Janette has her eyes closed because she is either asleep or scared to death as she has not panicked at my driving yet) winding and lined with stone fences; hedges or sheep. The sheep are funny poking their black heads out from behind rocks or running along the road rather ungainly with their splotch of pink or blue dye on their backs. The dye is to recognise who owns what ewe and to pick them out from the white (mossy) rocks.
In the summertime Kylemore Abbey (www.kylemoreabbey.com) has on average several dozen coaches and 2750 cars a day! I would hate to be in this area during July to September no matter how long the twilight hours make the area more attractive. The locals and tourists just 'flock' to the area.
For some history. Kylemore Abbey was built by a wealthy Brit (Michael Henry) in late 19th century. It is a fairy-tale cluster of buildings set in a fairy-tale setting. Since WW1 it's been an exclusive girls school run by Benedictine nuns who left Ypres (Belgium), I read that the school is too close this year. It takes 4-5 hours to look through the Abbey, and we didn't have the time, so we took photos and drove on, rather disappointing. However, Keith and I have seen so many castles and gardens and cathedrals that we are exhausted and happy to soak up the landscape minus the rain. The Connemara National park spans 2000 dramatic hectares of bog, mountain and heath. The park encloses a number of the "Twelve Bens" including Bencullagh, Benbrack, Benbaun and BenWeeding. Great for hikers and fishermen. Now if we had an opportunity to cycle here, I'm sure we would enjoy it.
Our newest Scottish room mate was sloshed, he didn't score a job (as a chief) so he drowned his sorrows in Guinness and red wine, not good. Down in the lounge area
two musicians came in and just played and talked to us, Ray, originally from Jamaica and James a young Irish fiddler (trying to perfect his fiddling), they were fantastic. We had great music and banter. All part of being in a Hostel, you just never know what or who you will meet. We love it. James went off to the Crain Pub where all the "Old timers" (musicians) get together, some times there are eight people and some times there are eighteen, anyone can join in and if you get there before 10pm you can get a good seat enjoy a beer and music. Galway has lots of musicians, artists and 'BS' Artists too. at 39 Shop Street, Galway, great selection of fine wine. Worth a drop in.
We bought wet weather gear and new umbrella. We look like the locals now. The longer we are here the less layers we are wearing, must be getting used to the temperatures.
Tralee here we come.
Tralee city, isn't that exciting, and we could have easily missed staying here. Should have gone to Dingle. The B n B was a funny little place we warmed to it quickly.
　

Today we checked out the Church of Ireland, dumped our umbrella, the wind just mangled it. Got lost and then found St Nicholas' Collegiate Church. The largest medieval parish in Ireland. Built c. 1320. 1652 destroyed by Cromwell and used as a stable, rebuilt with many of the old grave stones being used for the flooring. Cromwell certainly made his presence felt in England and Ireland. Visited Galway Castle (now a bank) and met Luke Anthony (Queenslander poor soul), manager of a well presented 'McCambridges' gourmet shop with great coffee (made by a chatty French lass) and great atmosphere. www.mccambridges.com
www.barnacles.ie 10 Quay Street Galway, right in the centre, good location to look around and it's really clean and surprisingly quiet. However, that could be just because we are in the low season. Galway city is again a swirl of enticing pubs and there is a "hum" or "screech" of buskers plucking guitars, (and the usual drunks and prolific smokers) in the streets. Following the guide book we found Bar 8 on Quay Street, jazz on Tuesday nights and the best organic and fresh food for vegetarians and pesc-ka-tarians and meat livers alike. Tried the locally brewed beer, Hooker Pale Ale. Keith found it amusing ordering a Guinness and a Hooker. We had fish 'just off the trawler outside' and the best chips Keith has ever had, it's all down hill from here.