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Two Chicks & a Climber Reach New Heights
Lapped by warm azure waters, fringed with vibrant coral reefs and cloaked in the emerald green of the tropics, Fiji was a paradise seeker's dream come true, especially after constantly being on the go in cold countries. It's sun-soaked, white-sand beaches and resorts are bliss but only a slice of the country's allure.
We made no plans for Fiji till we were welcomed by locals encouraging us to travel out to the tropical islands as the mainland, Viti Levu had black sandy beaches and was more expensive to stay in. Discovered that 'Awesome Adventures' packages are a rip-off, we went with booking accommodation on the Yasawa islands. Escorted to Nadi Bay hotel recommended by Russell Cooke.
We set off early the following morning to catch our Awesome Adventures boat (we only paid for the transport rather than the package) from Denarau for a 4 hour journey to the North of Yasawa islands, Nacula. During the journey we were amazed to see how small the Mamanuca islands were as well as how picturesque the tiny coral islands were.
Nacula, a hilly volcanic island is the third-largest island in the Yasawas. Our Chief at Nabua Lodge picked us up at the Blue Lagoon to transport us to our lodge on a small boat which the engine was about to bust but surprisingly we made it. We were in awe at how clear and shallow the sea was as well as the beautiful beaches were. Nabua Lodge had a flat grassy site with a tidal white-sand beach fringed by reefs, the water was warm, practically the same as the air temperature. Nabua Lodge was managed by an amiable local family from Naisisili (a local village 5 minutes walk away). It was a great place to switch to Fiji time and absorb the local Fijian lifestyle.
We spent the next few days enjoying the island life although it was hard at first as we were so used to being on the move at all times, especially in New Zealand. Andre went on a caving trip amd he was the first to climb out of the cave that the locals applauded him when he reached the top. We trekked through Nacula's highlands to get to the other side of the island, Oarsmar Bay which was absolutely stunning as the ground was sandy in the crystal clear sea. Our nights were spent admiring the scenic sunset, gazing at the stars on the hammocks and surrounding the fire on the beach.
Eager to move onto the next island, Paradise island which was just off Naviti island. Transported to Manuka Lagoon and on arrival, the Fijians greeted us with a traditional welcome song 'Bula' in their colourful tropical clothes. We explored the small island and we were disappointed to find shallow water everywhere that you could practically walk rather than swim from one island to another, plus it was rocky almost everywhere but it didn't stop us from having a nice time on the island. Islands vary from one another that all islands are unique in their own individual way. Only 6 people accommodated at Manuka Lagoon, the Swedish and German girls camped outside while we had this tiny room with no electricity that we relied on lamp lanterns at night, it was hard to lip-read in the dark. The Lagoon was more basic than Nabua Lodge, we were dependent on rainfall water to drink, brush our teeths and to wash our hands. We walked to Naviti, drank pure coconuts with the help of a Fijian who cracked the coconuts open. One meal time we were served roti (a type of flat bread) and curry that I appreciated very much as it reminded me of Mum's cooking. After dinner, the family set up a fire on the beach for fantastic singing and meke dancing which is an ongoing tradition.
We decided to leave Manuka Lagoon a day earlier and headed to Wayalailai. As we reached there, we faced a dilemma on the boat in between Wayalailai and Kuata island deciding where to stay even though the islands were right opposite each other, we voted for Kuata.
Kuata island was spectacular with unusual volcanic rock formations, caves, coral cliffs on the southern end, and great snorkelling offshore. Not only that but the indigenous Fijians at Kuata Natural Resort were some of the friendliest people and our contact with them was undoubtedly a highlight of our Fiji trip. Everywhere we went in the small resort, the universal greeting was a warm bula every time we walked past the Fijians. We accommodated in a private bure.
Over the next few days we became more active especially Andre. He went snorkelling with reef sharks about 20 minutes boat ride offshore from Kuata, he saw hundreds of colourful fishes and 3 sharks. One shark closely approached him till his guide, Josh saved Andre. Andre swam from Kuata to Wayalailai in the windy weather that the tide kept pulling him westerly but he didn't give up and made it to the other side after being in the rough sea for an hour. He easily made his decision to get the boat back, the locals thought Andre was crazy to swim in that weather. After dinner he went spear fishing with Josh and others, snorkelled in pitch black water while Josh&Co spear fished for about 2 hours. All in one day, no winder why he got so light-headed at the end of the day.
We paid a village visit in Wayalailai, Fijian culture demands that visitors are to be treated as honoured guests. A local girl guided us through the village and the local school, she also directed us to small shell markets.
That evening, Semhar and I participated in a kava drinking session. Kava drinking is much a part of Fiji as beaches and bure. Kava was served using bilo (coconut-shell cups) and deep wooden tonoa bowls, you had to sit cross-legged facing the tonoa. The dried and powdered root, wrapped in a piece of cloth is mixed with water and the resulting concentration looks like muddy water. We had to clap once, accept the bilo of kava, say 'bula' and drink it all in one go. It was awful tasting (kind of like murky medicine) and we felt from one bilo a furry tongue. We continued our drinking session in our bure.
Sunday was considered as a day of rest when families spent time together and attended to church. We spent our afternoon climbing Phantom's Head, a mountain that was on the east end of the beach. It was an unusual rock so Andre claims, he took me up first to the top and I found it quite simple to climb to the top but getting back down was a difficult task so I took my time. Views of Kuata island from the top was spectacular. Semhar went after me through a different route sideways to an abnormal cave with vegetation in the huge circular rock. For Semhar it appeared harder than she thought, due her height dragging her weight around, ending up feeling sceptical about coming back down again! The Fijians were angry with Andre when they saw him in his bright orange surfer shorts climbing the mountain as guided tours were only permitted up there.
Just before we departed for Denarau, Andre's foot being in pain for 2 days, having stung by corals, James used the method of fishing out sea urchins winched inside Andre's foot with his mouth. Andre was able to walk properly again. It poured with rain on our departure but strangely, the island looked beautifully scenic from afar.
Andre went surfing along Viti Levu's south coral coast, surfing reefs over warm, crystal-clear, turquoise blue water is a special experience. Fiji's rideable breaks were offshore reefs that he required a boat trip out to the waves. Andre's time was limited as he discovered that the waves were out of reach and too dangerous for him to surf, plus he didn't have a helmet whereas the other surfers did. He spent lunch with an Indian family eating several somosas.
Seeing that it was Diwali (Festival of Lights) I decided to pay a visit to the Hindu temple and during our taxi journey, we saw decorated houses, candles and lanterns set on doorsteps to light the way for God. Diwali is a great time for shopping as there were lots of sales, so we checked out the market in Nadi town. We bought some good buys all afternoon at the local crafts selling wooden masks and traditional carvings and Andre crazily bought a surfboard, yes, a SURFBOARD!
Fiji was a perfect getaway to unwind in tropical paradise and to experience the Fijian basic lifestyle.
Aman x
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