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Quite early in the morning we were woken by people chatting outside. I noted the time being 6:00am and I looked out the window and spotted the English girl from Hong Kong eating breakfast with three others. We both showered and I headed out to the large communal breakfast going on. Clarissa (the English girl) explained the gang sitting outside were due to get a taxi out to the temples for the sunrise but it never came. They were negotiating a jeep fare with the Burmese gentleman who was busy on his phone. I left them to it and paid the bills and ordered or scrummy breakfast of bread, jam and watermelon!
We chatted and ate the breakfast knowing our bus pick up was just around the corner. The owner told us to check out his sister hotel at our next destination and gave us a letter to deliver (a little crafty ploy, me thinks!?....) Our bus arrived on time and it was a proper posh coach, similar to national express. There was plenty of leg room and was all western travellers. we settled in to soon realise that despite the bus being full of non burmese speaking people we were still subjected to the usual loud TV blasting out Burmese speaking films and music. Along the way the bus kept stopping and picking up local people who were randomly waiting for couches to pass. The bus was full so many sat in the aisles but seem content. The first half of the bus ride went quickly but there were patches of really bumpy roads. Also we kept stopping for toilet and refreshment breaks which did feel a little excessive.
The second half included a 90 minute climb through a mountain range. Imagine a large coach, small road, oncoming trucks and a sheer drop on one side. This combination always makes me nervous but I guess the lovely scenery sort of puts your mind off it. At the summit we dropped off the nutters at Kalaw, the start of a famous trek point to Inle Lake. It may be scenic but not enjoyable as April is the hottest month of the year. As we approached our destination, a gentle mist started to appear over the paddy fields and all you could make out was faint figures working in the distance. Suddenly, grey clouds appeared which zapped away the light and there was a sort offered darkness we had not yet encountered.
At 4pm we pulled up in Nyuangshwe and as usual the mob of moto drivers were waiting for us. We pushed through and headed through town heading to the hotel where Kristin and Arnauld were staying. The town was dusty and had a sort of wild western feel to it. Broken up by the occasional posh looking hotel or bank. It was not long before the freelance fishermen were probing us for a boat trip on the lake. As we walked for 10 minutes there was a definite coolness in the air which was normal for this area being so close to a huge water source. We arrived at the Golden Empress Hotel which looked lovely with wood paneling and lush flowers in the garden. The owner seemed very friendly and explained our friends had taken bikes out for the day and showed us a room. Unfortunately we had to first check out the sister hotel from Bagan and deliver the letter as it was the honourable thing to do. The owner kindly held the room for us and we explained we would be back as that room would take some beating!
The sister hotel was located on the eastern edge of town. The rooms looked like individual bungalows but the area looked like a building site. There was obviously construction of more rooms going on. We greeted by a young girl whom we gave the letter to and explained we were from a hotel under their ownership. First impressions were not great as she generally seemed annoyed but she showed us a room which was mightily impressive. Complete wood decor, TV, fridge and a en suite complete with a bath! The actual owner's partner appeared who told us if we stay here we get half price discount. After much debate between us, it was the bath tub which clinched the deal.... You know Laura!
Grudgingly, we had to let the other hotel owner down but our consciences were clear at this point knowing we stayed loyal. Our two friends were not back yet so we decided to sit and wait for them. It passed 7pm with still no show and I decided in the mean time to try the night food market around the corner. A little stall littered with tables and small stools caught our eyes as it was fairly busy and we ordered from the handy English menu. I had a 'Mohinga', the classic thin noodles in fish broth and Laura, the May She Noodles, which we never had heard of. The food was served fast and not exaggerating, it was probably the best food we had tried in Burma. Laura's noodles had so much flavour and a welcome hot, spicy kick that is lacking from so much Burmese cuisine. We received the bill to find it cost just 500 kyat each... That's 37p...
Heading back it was nearly 8pm and we thought about leaving a note explaining we had waited for them when a northern English couple entered the hotel looking for a room tomorrow night as theirs was pretty horrible. They had been on the trek I mentioned earlier and found it very tough going with the brutal heat and excessive blistering from sweaty feet (they were seasoned Trekkers as well). We asked them about going on a boat trip with us as we assumed Kristin and Arnauld would of done it already and you pay for the whole boat, so more people means reduced cost. They agreed for the day after tomorrow and we headed off a bit gutted we would miss the other two. On leaving however, low and behold there was them two giving their rental bikes back, obviously been on a big all day cycling trip. We exchanged pleasantries and headed to a local bar for a quick coke and catch up. They were leaving for Yangon tomorrow but had arranged a boat trip for tomorrow as we might join them. Typical, we had now arranged with the other two!! We knew deep down these two had waited for us so really had to go with them and we would leave a note for the other couple. By this stage everyone seemed very tired so we said goodbye and would meet at 7:15pm for the trip onto the much talked about expanse of Inle Lake.
On returning to the hotel Laura did not hesitate to try the bath which glad to say was steaming hot! It felt like being at home! I was reading George Orwell's Burmese Days which I had really got into and it couldn't of been long before I fell asleep.
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