Arrived at Tambo International Airport after a long and tiring flight. The flight crew were the most surly and unhelpful people that we have ever met! A good preparation as it turned out for many of the other people that we met in South Africa! What a contrast to the lovely people we met in Australia. The airport is massive- we were supposed to have been met by someone from the hotel but were not! A kindly sole befriended us and led us through a maze of buildings, building work and hordes of people until we eventually found our transport. ( He could have been anyone- we had been warned about the dangers of South Africa, so what did we do but go off with a total stranger who smiled at us!) Any way, we arrived finally at our hotel- the internet said that were only 400 yards away from the hotel- sounds easy to reach but Sphaghetti Junction was in the way, so transport was essential. The hotel provided us with pleasant international accommodation, but it quickly became apparent that we should not ventured out without bodyguards! Security staff were everywhere and they advised us to proceed with extreme caution if we attempted independent travel. The other hotel staff did not seem to care too much about the guests- sometimes they were very nice and helpful, but mostly they were rude, surly or indifferent. The Afrikans guests were even worse- they were arrogant and offensively rude to any one who was not a member of their little group. Welcome to South Africa!!!! The hotel is obviously a great meeting place- the South African national football team were staying there at the same time as us(I think that they had arranged it specially).They were playing a series of friendly matches to play in the city, including one against Brazil! Football is the sport of black Africans and Soweto is their homebase. The World Cup comes to South Africa in 2010 and there is great excitement in the air- the city and especially the area around the airport is a giant building site. Judging by what we saw in the country and the attitude of the work force they are going to be struggling- it made the Wembley Stadium development seem a model of efficiency!!

We decided to do some sight seeing in the company of a reputable guide. Being a true South African he turned up late with no apology- we made countless phone calls and waited for over an hour! ( as we arrived back after the trip he said at least I got you all back on time! - we had our trip cut short by over an hour and he wanted us thank him!) Thankfully the trip itself more than made up for all the hassle. We headed for down town Jo'burg- we had heard that the place was run down but nothing prepared us for the streets of derelict buildings and squalor- it has whole districts that are no go areas.The driver was frightened and he lives around there. The vehicle was locked as soon as we got inside. Whenever we stopped he was very cautious and worried for our safety! On the very few occasions that we left the vehicle he stayed very close to us and employed some one to guard the vehicle. Apparently the street gangs rule and the police stay away- whether it is the World Cup or just a coincidence, the police have just begun their attempt to reclaim the streets. They need to- dozens of people die there daily and crime is endemic. Murders are so common place and life is so "cheap" that they are rarely reported upon in the press.

We did stop at one amazing shop- it is supposed to be a Museum of Science- in fact it is a Mecca for local people seeking alternative medical treatments. The place is full of dried animal skins, bones and body parts-with a huge range of spices and herbs to wash them down. It says something about how locals view Governmment medical care that they would prefer to take their chances with ancient remedies dispensed from a shop in the derelict heart of the city. 

We hastily departed the centre and headed for Soweto.What a contrast! It is a vibrant and exciting place of great diversity with extremes of wealth and poverty sitting alongside each other. There seems to be 3 main areas- millionaires' row with sumptious mansions surrounded by barbed wire and high security fences; newly built properties for the young and increasingly well educated, and shanty homes that seem to have been there for ever. We stopped in one of the  poorer areas and were immediately surrounded by smiling and happy children and their equally friendly adults. Immediately we felt safe. Every one seemed geniunely pleased to see us - the children found the presence of white people to be an exciting novelty! Before long we were carrying a child each with many more surrounding us- after a while I felt a light stroking of my tummy which had become exposed- when I looked down I saw that I was being gently examined, clearly a strange and exotic species had appeared in their midst! The typical home here had no doors, two simple rooms,no running water, no toilet , no electricity and no kitchen; but it was spotlessly clean and clearly they were very proud of their homes. Every one was so friendly( if only all South Africans, especially the white ones were like this). We brought a hand carved head from them- it was beautiful and cost 70 rand (a few pounds) which of course to them was a great deal of money. Some of our fellows on the trip tried bartering when offered goods for sale later in the day- considering how little the goods cost and how much they had to spent, we felt angry and disappointed with them.

We visited the Apartheid Museum and the site of the 1976 Soweto massacre, an event which did so much to bring about change in this country.A very informative and sobering experience.We drove past Desmond Tutu's pad.We visited Nelson Mandela's house for a guided tour- this lasted but a few minutes as the home is very compact. Clearly he is greatly reverred by everyone.We even got to use his toilet. One of our group, who shall remain nameless( let us call her S) even took forbidden photographs in this sacred place ( the toilet I mean).

TRIVIA QUESTION :- where can you find 2 Nobel prize winners living on the same street?( I know that Nelson Mandela has moved house- but forget this little detail or else it spoils a great question)

One evening we went out for an African meal( with a guide of course).The restaurant was modern and so it was not quite what we expected, but it was still a great experience. We sampled traditional food and drink under the guidance of the waitresses and had our faces painted- this caused much exciement and joliety when we arrrived back at the hotel later.(P.S the toilets were astonishing- I know it is becoming quite an obsession- and did I take photos of the men's loo, well....)

Our guide provided us with a great insight into the lives of ordinary South Africans. He comes from Lesotho, where his family still live.He has lived in the city for many years,earning enough to send home to improve their lives. He has little opportunity to see them as he has to be available for work as and when it arises.His pay is totally dependent on the whims of his employer and the presence of foreign tourists. 

On the morning of our flight back to England we went on a trip to ancient caves, a couple of hours out of the city.This is the site of some of the greatest finds of our ancestors' skeletons- one of these discoveries led to the complete rethinking of our understanding of human evolution. The whole area is grandly called "The Cradle of Mankind."

Quite sobering to stand on the exact spot that these great finds were made!

We will leave South Africa with many memories. Unfortunately,on the whole these memories are rather negative, reflecting the attitude of the many people that we met.However, Soweto and the people who live there will live long in our memories for the right reasons. We would love to go back there again sometime( question- where have you heard that before?).