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While waiting at Hong Kong airport we thought of Martin Heath, our dear friend, who over the years has been a frequent travelled to HK with his work. We imagined him in this airport, which is truly enormous. It would have been lovely if he suddenly appeared. Alas, he was no where to be seen.
Like everything in HK, they are able to move a huge amount of people quickly and efficiently from arriving to departing. There are so many local fast food providers all bustling for trade and everyone seemed to be eating - you could almost hear the clinking of the chop sticks as they frantically devour the contents of their bowl. Unfortunately, none of which Jeff and I fancied, it was all rather local. and too much of a frenzy. We settled for Cafe Deco, an amazingly quiet place, where the time for our flight passed quickly. The thought came in my mind - Martin where do you go when you are at the airport?
No one could prepare you for Hanoi. As we travelled by car from the airport my eyes darted in all directions, taking in all of the sights was almost overwhelming, which ever way you looked EVERYTHING was very different. The buildings, some new, some old, some derelict - the people sitting on the side of the road, the street food, the wiring, hanging low and tangled on the posts.
The hundreds and hundreds of mopeds/motorbikes everywhere, many heavily loaded with their various cargo - huge bunches of flowers for market, large boxes carefully or precariously balanced on the back, guttering,RSJs, large pieces of glass lashed on, children, sleeping babies on their mother's lap - absolutely anything is transported!!
There are no rules on the road in Hanoi. Although we have been told that they all have to take a test and get a licence - not sure how that works!!!!
There is a sea of movement. Cars and mopeds over take, undertake, move in all directions, even change direction. No one uses indicators, the horn is constantly beeping. The closer you get to the city, it is just chaos. Bikes, mopeds going the wrong way and pedestrians, young and old walking across the the traffic, nothing stops.
Our hotel was situated in the very busy Old Quarter, the first night, in the heat, we gazed in disbelief at the sight before our eyes, admittedly we were 'frightened' when faced with a continual mass of movement, no breaks in the traffic, the only option is to just go through and hope. Eeeek!!!
Next morning having rested and we sought advice from one of the manager Alice, who was absolutely beautiful and spoke perfect English.
She told me that - 'I have to be a stone, not a fish and magically the cars will move around you.'
Well, with Alice's words in my head I crossed the road, repeatedly saying, my new mantra,' I am a magic stone.' Amazing, it worked.
Life in the Old Quarter revolves around making money - along the road there are hundreds of open fronted shops, each street is divided into area. Clothes street, where they all have a huge piles of stock,' which is mostly the same. Food street, where anything and everything can be bought!! Then the other streets are mechanical, material, toys ............. and then there is the market.
Along the road at regular intervals, 'Street Food' is prepared, small stools or chairs are provided for guests and the 'cooks' prepare either using hot coals as their stove. The success of the Street Food is always measured by the trade. Some have a vast following while others rely on passers by. Although we didn't venture in Hanoi, we have since. The restaurant we favoured, if ever in town was New Day - the food and flavours were simple delicious, everything is cooked to order, like the majority of places in Vietnam. The green papaya salad, sweet and sour pork, grilled aubergines - sensational. The decor was interesting to say the least, but the place buzzed both nights we were there.
In amongst the shops and the street food are the rickshaws and motorbikes all keen for business - 'Where you come from -we take you on a tour.' . Then there are the ladies selling their goods from their shoulder carrier basket or bicycle - fruit, hats, fans, sugar coated waffles on sticks. Men in their 'colonial green hats' who tend to sell hardware goods from their bicycles.
The language is fast, high and beyond understanding - you would need to have lots of time and patience. Listening to the language can't help but make you smile.
We were warned to be careful with our money - there are no coins - just notes. Everyone is a millionaire, as a million Dong is £30. This means you need to be very carefully with the money you give and the money you get back. It's so easy to get it wrong - checking is essential.
The sun (35+) is unforgiving, so we walked slowly in the sultry heat that clings to you and never diminishes until you find the sanctuary of an air conditioned hotel room, where you can change your sweaty garments.
In stark contrast to the Old Quarter is the up market part of Hanoi, where there are the expensive hotels and stores like Gucci and Prada - the airconditioned chaffeured cars pull up and a immaculately dressed female is led to the entrance of the shop under an umbrella - purchase made and then returns to car and then perhaps goes for lunch. No opportunity for the heat to impact on her look for the day. There is a huge difference between the two worlds.
We were encouraged to visit the Woman' s Museum - it recognised and celebrated how hard the woman work and their important role in society. In the hotels in Hanoi, all of the woman and men learn English - it's like a school of learning, the whole staff are encouraged to speak and practice. They work exceptionally hard to ensure that all guests enjoy their stay, they truly are lovely people, who always have a smile.
In HK, some woman have the most beautiful , almost translucent skin, flawless - they don't do wrinkles, so are often encouraged not to smile. Goodness knows what they thought of my face!!!
In Vietnam the majority of women are covered mainly in multi coloured hoodies and trousers, they wear coloured masks. No skin is exposed. They even wear socks with flip flops. The reason is not for religious purposes but because they do not like their skin to go darker, it's not good to be dark, not seen as attractive.
While we were in Hanoi there was massive preparation for the the election(2016 -2021). Red and yellow flags and posters adorned every building. For a designated time through the day, music played loudly from carefully positioned speakers on the lamp-posts. There was no control button. Westerns walked around with surprise on their faces.
Frequently cars went, political rhetoric boomed out, reminding everyone to vote. Meetings were held in assembly points along the road. Huge stages were set up in preparation for the speeches from eminent members of the party. Some locals were very excited and the street traders wanted to sell the flags; other locals seemed rather nonplus about it all.
Whether all of this was a political show, knowing that President Obama was coming on election day or whether this was the norm, it looked like everyone had the opportunity to vote. It was only when you thought about you realised they all had the vote - but could only vote for one candidate.
Our time in Hanoi was unforgettable. Our adventures continue.
Thank you again for all your comments - I would love to have a 'like' button on this blog so I knew everyone's thoughts - alas this is not possible. I hope you are all well and enjoyed the Bank Holiday.
- comments
Ali D I have read them all and smiled! They would all get a 'like'! Hanoi sounds fascinating and exhausting and a huge contrast to here where it is wet and cold! Not quite the balmy half term we were hoping for. Happy onward travels...
Kate Read them all Jackie. Just thinking about you crossing the road, it must have been hard for you as I know what you are like here crossing roads....,I look forward to being out and about with a stone.
Barbara Fascinating!
Steve Sounds fascinating and frenetic but colourful and interesting. Funny Jackie I have always thought of you as wrinkle free translucent and stoned! Continue having a great time, look forward to your next account. What are sweaty clothes? With the weather here as it is I'm not sure I understand the term or have forgotten it.