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The bubble of excitement and anticipation filled us as we left Kuala Lumpur. We had read and heard so many stories. Hannah had told us about her experiences when she was travelling.
Our first day in Delhi was to be honest quite a shock. The hotel staff warned us quite emphatically that we would attract attention and that we must say no and must not agree be taken anywhere!!!
I think we now saw ourselves as 'intrepid travellers' and thought it was just a warning to take heed of. Ha! Ha!
Nothing, absolutely nothing could have prepared us for the bombardment- it was truly relentless. You couldn't walk a few steps without being interupted- the line always started:
'I'm not walking with you, but this is a dangerous place and not safe. Let me take you to the Bazaar. Follow me.'
The yellow and green 'Tuc Tucs' rushed to us for business -' we take you ....
The response was naturally 'No thank you.' - this was repeated constantly.
Our hotel was in Connaught place, which was a well built circular Victorian terrace in style; a bit like Bath Cresent (well - ish). In the time of the British Empire it was white and regal, but now in serious need of love and attention. Although, it is still 'the place' to be. It was a quite a prime spot, where 'stylish shops ' - Benetton, Body Shop, Pepe, Lacoste collided with the street traders and the beggars, young, old, small children who lined the arches. For us, entry into the air conditioned shops was a perfect way to get cool and escape the mayhem. There was a feeling that situations could easily becoming volatile and out of control . Over the weekend there was a frenzy of selling - just crazy. ( No tax on Sundays). Although I love a bargain this was just too much for me.
Our day tour of Delhi with a driver, Rajiv, was a great decision. We felt safe away from the hassle of walking from A to B without being bothered we saw the main monuments the Mohul Red Fort - enormous in size and visited and adored by thousands.
The Askshardham Temple was a new build, it was truly beautiful and of breathtaking grandeur, no photos were allowed I felt very emotional looking at the bejewelled Ganasha; yet couldn't help thinking that there was so much poverty and so many people were living in such desolate and dreadful conditions that the cost of this build could have gone to better use!
Jeff has felt quite sad that people have to live in such conditions, the poverty and the squalor is all around. I think the tapping on the window by small children really makes us both feel very uncomfortable.
For me, Delhi was full of 'Fagins' and his boys - rogues and vagabonds trying to lure the tourist in and run rings around them. There are also lots of men of all ages with henna or orange dyed haired men who constantly oggle at my blonde hair and yes my bosoms. It's not discreet at all. You try staring back, but it doesn't work.
There is the obsession to have a photo taken with primarily me but of late Jeff, it's as if you are some kind of celebrity. We are very careful who we say yes to - goodness knows where our photos might appear!
When visiting Brazil we resisted visiting the Favella, paying to see poverty did not sit well with us, in India it is everywhere. Although we had been warned about Agra, it was beyond our wildest dreams and no one could have prepared us. As we approached, Salauden, our driver, mood changed and he kept saying that it was a crazy place with crazy people. As we entered, there was a traffic jam - the bridge that had been completed 5 years ago had been closed as it was structurely unsafe. Bedlam everywhere. It was the closest we have ever been to such a fragile area - it looked like a war zone,run by insurgents, bandits - men with covered heads and not because of the sun. Police holding old guns, men in uniform with sticks beating anyone from men on bikes to pedestrians. There was no order. Lawless and corrupt. Rubbish - piles everywhere. Buffalo, cows, pigs and camels wander the streets. Empty faces sitting on the road side. Woman and men covered, no faces to be seen. The world somehow felt wrong; it was like watching a John Simpson report where you feel like turning away,but know you can't.
Agra - the home of the Taj Mahal - it may be one of the 'Wonders of the World' but the Taj stands in isolation from the world around it.
An immeasurable feeling of melancholy ran through my body. What did I expect? I felt like crying, but my tears would not help. In the car there was silence - disbelief. Words could not describe at the sight before our eyes.
Whatever the backdrop the vibrant colours of saris - saffron, magneta, jade green, iridescent orange, braided with gold stand out. As do some men with their coloured turban and intensely white clothing. They look at us as if we are from another planet, which most probably we are and when you smile, sometimes their faces light up.
The heat - yes it's summer and there has not been rain in Rajastan for years - rivers are dry and there are just wide arid paths of where they once flowed.
In Ranthambore - the land of the tigers. We went on two safaris and although we never saw any tigers; you could not miss the unforgettable, pungnent smell of a recent kill, being devoured by wild boars. Monkeys with character expression, so many cobalt peacocks dancing, white and orange Birds of Paradise, different landscape - the sights, just an incredible experience. The Serengeti must be incredible.
On the drive from Ranthambore to Jaipur, there are vast open spaces of land, which resemble deserts, scorched and barren. Very few things grow besides the Bambool trees that survive . The heat currently reaches 50 between midday and 3pm - it's like a fiery fan heater that's stuck on the highest setting and blasts you relentlessly. Searing. The air conditioned car was a precious commodity that we valued.
As you travelled miles and miles you pass the endless brick towers which mark numerous brick making factories, where the men work in the relentless heat. The ladies sweeping the road or planting the middle reservation. Strangely there is no water but they water the middle reservation of the main highway!!! Then there is the orange turbaned farmers, who create a biblical scene with their goats or sheep. You can't help but ask - how do they you manage?
We are currently in Jaipur, although the tension of Agra has gone the sights on the road is much the same. We have marvelled at the amazing sight of the Amber Fort, an enormous wall, a bit like the Great Wall of China, well ish! The details and features were just magnificent, but our favourite was the City Palace which is found inside the Old City, and is a combination of Rajasthani and Mughal architecture. The Art exhibition was just watercolours from 1200 to photographs taken in late 1800s, which depicted the days of the British Empire. Simply stunning. Our hotel is rather beautiful, it's full of very loud, very wealthy Indians and you can't help notice the stark constrast. Slightly disappointed how they speak to the waiters! Interesting very few can swim! I think if you teach private swimming lessons you could make a fortune.
The food, in the hotels has been delicious. It's not a place to pop out for a pint and a bite to eat. We have loved the flavours and the people in the hotels are always sol very keen to help.
I think Hannah has worried we are not enjoying India, just to reassure everyone, we have had to adjust, but would not have missed this extraodinary, amazing experience.
I have to finish as we are off to catch a train to Udaipur. Catch you all later, hope you the weather is improving. Look forward to hearing from you all. Take care.
- comments
Kate What an experience, I guess life will never be the same and your mind will often return to this place when you are back living he good life. Great blog, thanks. Maybe we will be in a changed UK after this week..sending love. X
Ann Whiteley Thanks for an amazing account Jackie - a truly remarkable and unforgettable experience I am sure. Despite the result of the referendum today - and I really think it could go either way - we really have a lot to be thankful for. Stay safe and enjoy the rest of your trip. X
Steve Jane and I stayed in a hotel next to Connaught Circle and like you I was stunned by my first outing there. So much so that Jane thought she had made a huge mistake getting me to India. However I loved it, everything was so vibrant and interesting, poverty aside. Fascinating to read your account. Not sure I want you to get back too soon as I look forward to reading of your adventures. Am sure you'll love Sri Lanka, so different from northern India. Have a great time.
Ali D There is no doubt being in Delhi is a total assault on your senses! So much to take in, not a restful place at all. I think I enjoyed it more in hindsight than when actually there. I was sad you found Agra so distressing. India is a country full of contradictions that are hard to get your head round.