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Day 26 28.12.2014
After a good breakfast and coffee at Bacoma, Clint and I explored Kep by bicycles - Crab Market , Kep Beach, the ruins of French Villas and the new area of town with the Town Hall and huge square, Victory Monument, Monument of Khmer Rider and new prestigious government buildings, built in the style of the Pagodas. The large boulevards and monumental squares were deserted and although relatively newly built, the weeds were already growing knee-high out of the paving and curbs, making it all look uncared for. Although there is a huge prestigious building for town planning, the strangest town planning seems to happen in Kep. Between the Crab Market and the beach a 6 lane road has been built next to the sea, which abruptly stops at a narrow road which hugs the rocky outcrop ( no space for a wide road here !). This road has been designated as a one-way from the Crab Market to the beach. On our way back I was concerned (being the law-abiding citizen I am) to go down the wrong way on this road on our bicycles. Well - the one- way seems to be an optional extra, as it does not deter any vehicles from going down the one-way ! The real odd thing is, that when you go down the wrong way and you reach the Crab Market end you enter onto a 3 lane road ...who did the planers think would use this road ?
Kep must have been a stunning town during the French colonial years, as the properties with the large French Villas, now overgrown ruins, hint at gracious splendour. When Cambodia became independent and the French left, hogh ranking Cambodians seems to have taken over and then the head honchos of the Khmer Rouge decided that they should treat themselves too ... The concept of some are more equal than others ...and all that ! So sad, that these buildings could not have been maintained and restored. It seems to be difficult to find out who owns these properties at this stage. The reason why they are all ruins is, that the locals ransacked the houses and sold anything that could be removed to the Vietnamese, at the time of the great famine from 79 - 81, in exchange for food. 100s of thousands of people died in the famine, which lead to the Cambodians adding dogs, cats, insects and reptiles to their diet. Unfortunately this is still the case today, and the cruelty inflicted on the animals is beyond imagination. Difficult country for an animal lover.
Day 27 29.12.2014
Today was the exploring day on Scooters - Clint and I looked exceptionally hardcore on our pink Hello Kitty scooter and Ricki, Jedda and Jemma did it the Cambodian way - at least 3 up on a scooter.
First stop was the Pepper Plantation, as the Kampot region is well-known for very tasty pepper and also salt, the salt fields being the next stop on our excursion. It was a rather long and dusty trip to the plantation and then to the salt fields. Interesting though, as one gets to be a lot closer to the locals and the local environment. We were told that Angkour Beach was a good beach in the Kep area, and after missing the turnoff and heading for nearby Vietnam, we eventually found the beach. Rather disappointing ...as it was full of litter and not inviting at all. The fishing village on the beach looked dirty, grimy and depressing. We drove through the village and found a grassy spot to stop for some refreshments (eating was not an option here ...it looked like dog- eating country !). Two young boys came to chat to us and brought their delapidated soccer ball - which soon ended in a bit of soccer with the boys and photos with all the sunglasses. Too cute and funny, and also sad, as one looked at these sparky young boys, who have virtually no opportunities to follow their dreams.
On the way back to Kep we stopped for a late lunch at a local diner. The owners 3 year old, precocious as ever, kept us entertained until our food arrived.
Day 28 30.12.2014
Unfortunately we had to move from Bacoma to Raingsey Bunglows today. I had booked other accomodation for a few days, as we thought that the Backpackers environment would be too noisy over New Year. Little did we know that this is the most chilled, laid-back and quiet environment around. We tried to cancel the booking, but the owner would not consider budging on the cancellation conditions. It was close to Bacoma and a nice environment with a pool, but at more than 3 x the price, just not worth it at all. We used the room and facilities, but still spent most of our time at Bacoma and also ate at Bacoma, as their food was good and half the price of Raingsey.
The rest of the party decided to drive through to Kampot for the day, and see whether there was a bit more life there and explore the surroundings.
Kep is known for its seafood and especially crabs. The Crab Market is essentially a food market - with the local food market, selling local street food at reasonable prices, next to tourist restaurants selling mainly Crab and seafood dishes at much higher prices. The views of the sunsets from the open restaurants built out over the sea, are just spectacular. My favourite drink Fresh Lime Juice was replaced by Mojitos here ...to celebrate another spectactular sunset.
We treated ourselves to Crab cooked with Khmer fresh green pepper at Trei restaurant - scruptious ....but lots of work for little meat, having the whole crab on your plate. The fresh green pepper is really tasty - little spice explosions.
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