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Myself and Michael (still groggy) made a beeline for the bus terminal the next day bound for the small town of Tilcara, 4 hours from Salta. This place is like nothing I've seen before. Guaranteed to make any geologist wet their pants with excitement. It is set at the bottom of a cluster of multicoloured mountains known as the Quebrada de Humahuaca and included is a river running through the town as well as a few cobbled streets. It has the feel of a desert but is so green in some areas. Like being on the set of a Clint Eastwood classic. Cacti everywhere, as well as the odd dust storm. We decided to take it all in over a classic South American dish of meat, potatoes and a grain (in this case it was wild corn), followed by a short 4km stroll up the mountain to the so called waterfall. Now if it weren't for the amazing views along the way I would have been thoroughly disappointed with the small trickle of water at the final destination. I could seriously pee with more velocity.
That night was spent making short work of many hammock beers and enjoying the iconic llama in steak form, which is actually real tasty (a lot like lamb).
From Tilcara the nearby towns of Humahuaca and Purmamarca can be reached (both tongue twisters). Humahuaca is smaller than Tilcara and has an awesome monument at the top of some stairs which can be reached. We also scaled peña blanca accompanied by some stray canine chums for an awesome city/mountain view. It was here that I made my first purchase of coca leaves from a sweet old lady (she was probably only 40 but looked 80+). There is a technique to chewing the coca leaves. One which I didn't know about until after I tried, however I kind of enjoyed them regardless. We also enjoyed a classic South American band over some wines which featured kids around 10 and an older man who was dangerous with a charango (small, 10 string guitar). Good times were certainly had.
Purmamarca is even smaller than Humahuaca, but more of a tourist town than both it and Tilcara. The reason became known to us when we arrived - the 7 colour hills are truly amazing. How they were formed I have no idea but the views are spectacular (huge understatement). We trekked the 3km loop, petted wild llama and took in the purples, reds, brown, white, orange, green and black. Now I know what being on acid is like. I saw so many colours it made me dizzy.
Back in rainy Tilcara I skyped my family back home, though most of the conversation revolved around dad asking me why I hadn't shaved yet. I was then on the bus back to Salta in preparation for my grim 1am bus to Chile. I could have easily decided to not visit the north of Argentina, after seeing the breathtaking scenery it contains I'm 100% stoked. One of the many joys of traveling is that you can go virtually anywhere, and when you find an awesome place that you never expected to visit, it is that much more special.
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