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I woke to threatening skies then rain, not the best way to start my day on the cinque terre track - the famous walk that links the 5 coastal towns. Breakfast is a communal affair at my hotel, so over homemade croissants filled with orange jam and cheeses I met my fellow guests - almost all were from Brisbane! I went to the train station to see big signs everywhere saying the trains are on strike on Friday, the day I am travelling to Milan. I rushed back to the hotel and got my ticket and was told my train would be running as it was one of the fast ones ... We will see.
I caught the train to the first town, riomaggiore, and it is quite different from monterosso, the harbour is very small and perilous looking, and the town is built into the crags of the cliffs that rise from the water, so lots and lots of steps to climb but the view at the top was worth it. The cliffs are terraced and somehow they are able to grow vegetables and grapes on the land above the town, it looks as if it would be very hard work harvesting as there is no way to get machinery up there.
I had lunch in a restaurant literally caved into the rock, and had fantastic pesto and potato pasta! Fuelled with carbs, I started the walk on the flat short stretch known as via dell amore or the lovers way, as every surface (stone, cactus leaf, wall) is graffitied with lovers names and locks. Manarola, the next town was sleepier and just as precariously perched on the cliffs, but had a very laid back feel. I could only do some of the next stage of the walk as there had been a landslide, but I could walk far enough to get spectacular views of the town I had left. As luck would have it the skies cleared as I was waiting for the train back to monterosso but maybe the track will dry out for tomorrow.
Back in monterosso, the town was deserted and quiet, then the whole town walked in a procession behind a coffin, an amazing sight to see. Everyone was so silent and carrying flowers, all the businesses closed as they went past. By evening things were still much more subdued than last night. I had a simple caprese salad and lemon cake for dinner and called it a night.
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