Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
Now this is the India we came to see and expected. It is noisy, dirty, incredibly smelly and totally great!
Flying on domestic flights in India appears slightly haphazard, but we managed to arrive in the holy city of Varanasi, complete with luggage successfully, albeit slightly late! We were deposited at the top of a network of alleys, in which we proceeded to lose all sense of direction and remain suspicious as to whether we'll ever find out way out again!
Our first impressions on seeing the hostel we'd chosen, was "ABSOLUTELY NO WAY!". But the charm of the chap convinced us to look at the room and we discovered a real gem (no pun intended!). It's an octagonal room, in one of the towers of a 450 year old builing over hanging the holy Ganga River, complete with domed ceiling (slightly peeling) and balcony (which we're slightly wary of venturing out on due to the rampaging monkey's that hurtle across at random intervals!). We forgave him for his cruddy front of house!
Our first morning gave us a swift introduction into the world of the backpacker in India. We do not fit in. For a number of reasons, but mainly because:
a) We do not play, own or singalong to a sitar (or guitar), b) say 'play us a song, brother' to complete strangers who are patently not our brother's (and quite frankly if you've ever heard either of our brother's musical ability you would NOT ask them to 'play us a song'!), c) Neither of us possess an excessive amount of facial, body or head hair and that which we have got has been brushed in the past 6 weeks, d) We do not have a crocheted item on or in said hair, e) We had washed in the past 10 days and, f) Our clothing amounts to more than a mixture of cheescloth sarongs and kaftans with a tatty blanket thrown over it for warmth. Who'd have thought that combats, totally destroyed by 6 months of constant wear would lead you to feel too smart?!!
Despite this, we love Varanasi. The Ganga is the hub of the city, and is a hive of activity, with people washing themselves and their clothes in it, dancing, praying and being cremated by it . . . s***ting in it . . . it's width is vast and we're here in the dry season. People's lives here revolve around this river, starting with a "cleanse" at dawn and ending with a ceremony at sunset. We've walked for hours up and down it - it's endlessly fascinating. We accidentally came across the main cremation ghat, which is used 24 hours a day, 365 days a year and narrowly avoided being knocked down by dead bodies upon leaving.
We've been lost in the alleys for hours (we came to the conclusion that they must have invisible corners in them!), and only found our way back by luck, rather than judgement - turning down alleys because there's a herd of cows in the way tends to hinder any kind of informed decision-making process!
We've been up at dawn for a boat ride on the Ganga, which could have been better to be honest. Our boatman was a rather talkative chap, which ruined the atmosphere somewhat and seemed to prevent him rowing, so we didn't get ver far! He seemed keen to advise us on "medicine" for Gemma's wonky eyes - which he noticed and then talked about . . . at length! Apparently his brother got his through a damage on the brain - how did I get mine?! Oh, and he seemed to think Graham looked like an Indian . . . Gemma looks like a tourist . . . with wonky eyes!
We went out for the day on a tuktuk, with a really cool, really old, really skinny driver . . .when he wasn't yelling at other road users (cows included) he muttered to himself . . . which was slightly disconcerting, but at least we knew he was awake!
We're slightly sick of vegetable curry already but when a restaurant's selling point is that it is "less dirty than others" (painted on the door - no joke!), it tends to put you off trying anything more adventurous!
We're back to Delhi later today and then onto Amritsar, in the north (brrrr, chilly!). We've loved Varanasi, as we said, this is the India we expected to find.
- comments