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24 hours – three countries
Well just over 24 hours ago I left India, arriving in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia 45 minutes early – just before midnight. I had met up with a guy from Slovenia in the Indian airport and when we went down to claim our luggage in KL, he commented that maybe our bags hadn't been offloaded yet….then we looked at each other and starting laughing because if you have been in Malaysia in the last few years you would know how efficient everything is. Sure enough, we were at the wrong turntable and our bags had already come off the plane, been through the turnstile and were lined up according to size in true Malaysian efficiency style. In the baggage claim was a 7-11 and just outside the doors, a McDonald’s. Truly Shangri-la for me…..everything I love in one place! I was a little bummed that I had eaten nearly a whole bag of mini chocolate bars on the plane as I didn’t have enough Malyasian Ringet: still had a few Rupees, a few Thai Baht, some US dollars but not enough to negotiate an Air Asia meal. The chocolate bar combo bag I had found in the duty free in Cochin. We foreigners went a little crazy buying up all the candy as we boarded the plane because it had been a while since having access to chocolate that had not melted and reconstituted a number of times. The wrapper always said "kit kat" but inside the brown was usually white or grey….so I was sorry I had pigged out so supremely as I would have loved to quaff down a big Mac and a slurpee – open 24 hours – ahhh Malaysia! So I schlepped my bags across the parking lot to the Air Asia 'Tune’ hotel – another model of true Malaysian efficiency – Air Asia is destined to take over the world. Everything works. The Hotel model is based on travelers needs – you buy the room by the hour, in 12 hour lots: the air conditioner and hair dryer work on chits – pay by the hourly usage, towels and soap – extra, everything is available at a charge so you just pay for what you use. I like it and the rooms are small but immaculately designed for efficiency for the transit traveler. Got up – walked back across the parking lot and realized how goofy my thoughts were regarding how hot it was in India and uh huh – it is just as freaking hot and humid in Malaysia!! Duh. By the time I made it the 15 minute walk to the terminal I was sweating like a roasted pig yet very excited to know that gold (big Mac) and drinks with ice!!! were at the end of the journey. All McDonald’s in Malaysia – in fact pretty much the entire country is wifi’d, so I plunked down, scarfed down the first Big Mac off the grill (11 am) and read some emails and waited to board another Air Asia to Vietnam. Malaysia has an incredible energy – the cars are all new and fancy – pimped out with every accessory – I had forgotten that from last year and the country is a true melting pot – primarily Muslim, but super fashionista Muslims with jeweled hijabs and skin tight jeans. Not too many burkas here. Everything is shiny and glittery – how I think of Oman or Dubai. The other large group are Chinese and they definitely pale in the fashion forward sense of the Malay Muslims.
Everything is sooo different from India. As I travelled yesterday in the taxi 1.5 hours – the Cochi airport is really far outside of the city, it was shocking how, what had seemed so raw and dirty and well, Indian, just a few weeks ago, now felt warm and nice and kind of normal. Only when hit by the stark contrast of Kuala Lumpur and its quest to have the highest buildings, the largest this and that, with garbage sweepers everywhere and gardeners pruning every flower lined boulevard did I realize how different India is. Even with the pollution and the mounds of garbage and the cows and the goats and the pigs wandering the streets, and the camels and the elephants and the monkeys cruising looking for opportunities to be naughty, and the stinky canals and raw sewage, it still has some kind of something – I can’t find the words and ‘energy’ isn’t right. It is humanity moving en mass. I.3 billion diverse stories moving individually, yet with a collective pride I don’t think I have seen elsewhere. Incredible India – that is their advertising slogan and I hope I will be able to evoke those memories as time fades…….I had so many lovely conversations with people – every encounter turned into a nice story or a moment shared. I never felt threatened or afraid – something I had anticipated feeling.
So, arrived here a few hours ago – made it through the visa on arrival process and got my stamp to enter Vietnam from three surly officials – everyone has some kind of uniform here, and right away the negative, harsh memories of Vietnam returned. The stern faces and indifferent attitudes and a real feeling of ‘harsh’. That word seems to sum up what I remembered most of this country from last year. My last day in Vietnam was one of my most troubling travel memories and I hope the violence that I witnessed doesn’t taint this leg of the journey. Obviously I know that kind of violence happens in every country in the world, yet somehow being personally involved and not having anywhere to go for help, has changed my lenses through which I see this country.
So I sit waiting for my three hour delayed flight with people picking their teeth and belching loudly and farting with pleasure – the young women around me are mostly tarted up like hookers – the fashion sense in this country is also extreme – they like three inch heels with everything, skin tight miniskirts and fish net stockings in 35 degree heat. Ahhhh, sticky crotch syndrome!!! What woman would choose to wear high heels and pantyhose, ever, yet in 35 degree humidity?????? – so there again my experiences of last year in Hanoi – the wife sitting beside her creepy scumbag 100 pound husband, watching him gamble online – all their money – her captive like a monkey on a leg tether, dressed to the nines everyday in her uncomfortable hooker wear – 3 inch heels and tiny little outfits…….sitting around in agony waiting for her life to pass by.
Oh, a mob has formed outside the cybercafé here at the airport….a mob of mostly women in women monk wear – wayyy more comfortable than hooker wear. Seems their religious leader – a Llama from Tibet is arriving and they are forming up, rolling out a huge patterned carpet and handing out flags. The excitement is palpable and really joyful. I spoke with a Vietnamese woman who just returned here after 25 years in the US – she came back for the first time to take in New Years – it lasts a month here in Feb/Mar. She asked around and got the Llama story. Nice.
Called Laura and to let her know of the flight delay and it was great to hear her voice. Oh, just learned the Llama’s flight from Hanoi is also delayed……Bring on Air Asia – one day in Malaysia and I already have brand new expectations!!! Better lower them pretty darn quick or I will surely be disappointed.
So, stay tuned for Vietnam, second time around. I hope I can embrace it with an open heart. I miss India already and Malaysia and McDonalds and 7-11.
It has been a great 24 hours. And I haven’t even seen my friends yet and I haven’t even made it to the last flight…… my battery is running low and the board still just shows “delayed”! Maybe I have a few Mars Bars and a couple of Bounties left……
- comments
Arlene Hi Debbo! Nice to hear from you and sounds like things are "normal" - so far!Have fun at MacDonald's and don't pig out... hahah. Love your news!L, Arlene
Doug Smith Seems to me you should be applying to be a contestant for the Amazing Race . Ah that warehouse of memories is such burden at time , fortunately Vietnam is at the end of the filing system, and now you have a chance for redo. Best two out of three ? . Happy Easter girl...enjoy all that chocolate.
Barbara Hello Missy,I've been trying to catch up with you via blog and reading your entries from last to first...I do that sometimes and it all makes sense in the end. What an adventure...you make it all sound so...delicious! I'm incredibly envious of your travel skills....I had trouble with Paris for god's sake so I can't imagine ever setting foot in, say, Belgium, never mind the Indian sub-continent. Love your stories....Safe journey, Deb. I'll be checking in diligently from now on.Barbara
Deb Welder Hey there, There you are again away travelling in obscure places and having fun. I am enjoying your blogs thanks for that. Travel safe. My 2 neices are heading over there in May. Any hints?Deb 2
Rudi Hello Debbie,have finally caught up with all your adventures!!! no need to return to Canada. Who is now having the adventure?? So glad to see that you are having the time of your life!!! thanks for keeping in touch!!! your Rickshaw story really touched me. Looking forword to hearing more stories. Can always counton those Golden arches...will share this with Wai-yee! take care...toodaloo