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The boat trip from Siem Reap to Battambang was about 8 and a half hours. It was advertised, kind of like to the scam bus to Cambodia, as estimated to take anywhere from 6 to 23 hours. Everything in this country depends on the conditions - conditions of the weather, the equipment, the mood, the karma, you name it and it can change everything. For the boat trip, the conditions at this time of year - the dry season - make the river part of the voyage quite difficult.
We were picked up in a minivan that kept stopping for more, more until there were about 20 of us crammed on top of each other. Then as we started to talk we found out that not everyone was going to Battambang - some anxiety on the minds of some....me, not so much as I hadn't been anywhere but Siem Reap so, like the public buses, it is all new and good wherever I may end up. Eventually the minibus coughed us out like a hairball at water's edge and we found our boats. It was clear from the start that the boat was '"not exactly as illustrated "in the brochure. I knew it had a roof you could "sit"??? on and would have no air but I hadn't thought it would basically be an old school bus - except the bus seats were not padded, they were wooden pew styles, straight backs and as close as school bus seats. I was glad for my short legs for once.
When we piled onto the boat half went to the roof - the younger crowd and the oldsters stayed downstairs. The boat travelled through Lake Tonle - a freshwater lake that supplies the drinking water for Cambodia and beyond. Numerous floating villages inhabit the lake and live very simply. This portion of the trip took about 4 hours until we got to the head of the river where the open water (huge lake) turned into a very narrow, mangrove swamp. In the rainy season the lake and river swell to gigantic proportions but at this time of year the river is so narrow that we had to blow the horn continuously to warn other vessels- long tails or canoes or tiny barges that we were coming through the twists and turns of the swamp. I saw a dead crocodile - bloated and floating upside down. If he wasn't dead he was a good faker. There are lots of crocs around these rivers. The long and windy parts lasted for hours and were quite lovely and lush. The engine of the boat was so loud it was impossible to talk to anyone - even if they were right beside you. I had my earphones in and my iPod on - more to deaden the sound than to hear the book on tape I had.
Halfway up the river we came upon a lot of camps and fish farms. They are netting the whole river in places and sucking every morsel of life out. See the pics for some idea of the nets. Traps (crayfish? shrimp? or lobsters) lined every inch of every bank and floating villages seemed to receive and process some of the loads of fish. Lots of people working this river. Kids would wave from the banks or from the huts and it was very movie like. As the day got hotter, so did the inside of the boat and then we started to slow down and eventually stop a number of times. The rudder was scrapping the bottom and the garbage - so much garbage - mostly plastic bags and plastic water bottles, had to be sawed off the rudder before we could continue. For some reason, the noise, the heat, the diesel fumes and the incredible lack of space and comfort, made a few of the large Europeans quite cranky. Big cranky Germans and French folks - and they are huge in comparison with Asians - seem to start smoking a lot under stress. Me? I was getting stressed because the idiots were smoking, on the no smoking boat, while standing on top of the jerry cans of diesel fuel which had no lids - just plastic bags with elastics to prevent spilling. We had about 10 huge 25 gallon jugs to start with and the boat boy was fueling out gillagan'sisland piece of crap with the jugs. I imagined the explosion and the post mortem investigation. I kindly suggested to a large beast woman that smoking on top of fuel cans was perhaps not so smart. She found me even less attractive for the rest of the trip and her girlfriend sided with me on this one. At least that is what I chose to believe as they spoke no English. One sneered ( the Don King look alike one), and the other didn't. Christa - you could take the big one in a heartbeat!!!! This one gives sisters a bad name.
No bonding on this trip as it was impossible to talk or hear. The poor folks on the roof - it seemed like a great idea at 8 am, fried through the day as they were jammed up there on the metal roof, no seats and no place to come down where we were. I was told the trip could be up to 12 hours so I had my snacks and enough water for three days. The last part of the river close to Battambang was different - crops were planted right down to the water's edge and large irrigation systems were pumping water up and out. Nothing wasted here. It was a relief to see some green after seeing brown dust for so long.
We pulled up to the edge (no dock, just a ladder straight up with no handrail) and were met by about 50 men - grabbing at bags and wanting to do anything for a dollar. US currency is used here. There is no way I would have been able to carry my bags and water surplus up that incline ladder. I was happy to pay a buck to the guy who got my bag.
At the top the tuk tuks were yelling and offering rooms and most of us went to the royal hotel. I went on the back of a dirt bike - all bags and water - quite amazing how much you can get on a bike. I checked out the royal and another place with my guy.....always researching the best deal .....By the time I got back to the royal all the cheap rooms were gone and the lovely Chinese owner gave me a luxurious suite for 12 dollars as long as I didn't tell anyone. What a great hotel - lovely people and nice rooftop restaurant, right in the middle of the sleepy city.
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janice21 Waaahhhhh! Okay, I know your temporary silence is due to the amazing and incredibly exciting adventures you are taking in but please understand that there are some of us back in this wintry wonderland who are living through you and are falling deep into the woes of withdrawal from a couple of days with no asian drama. sigh... I miss you! :) Funny fish feet femme fatale (ick!) xoxo