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The streets of Harare…
I have only been here for a few days but Zimbabwe has made a huge impression on me. People carry smiles with them on their way to work and take the time to say hello to strangers as they pass. The cars sweep through the streets in an orderly fashion and although there is an element of hustle and bustle, which you expect in a capital city, Harare has a calm disposition, a charm to it which is immediately settling. Trees line almost every street, which meander across wide avenues and stretch sideways to form tunnels separating the sun, forming blocks on light. The city is much quieter than I imagined but underneath the relaxed, silent exterior you can sense that something sinister is lurking, hidden behind the city's face.
A few hurdles to jump…
This became more apparent as we set off out of the city to the countryside and saw the realities of modern Zimbabwe; a place of censorship, tight control and heavy political fear. Before visiting Progressio projects we were forced to pay a visit to the district administrator of Wedza. We drove 3 hours into the countryside until we approached a gated compound surrounded by men. A man in uniform approached the car and checked our names off a list. He then ushered us to a room which was completely bare apart from a framed photograph of Robert Mugabe which stared down at us, and a gavel which lay in the corner.
After a few minutes we were met by two men. They wore false smiles and asked numerous questions before signing a document and sending us on our way. The visit was merely a formality, a form of censorship to ensure our visit didn't carry any political implications. A tiresome procedure which if not followed can bring detrimental consequences.
The farms of Wedza…
Away from the offices of men in suits, checklists and ulterior motives we reached the farms of Wedza; a place where maize lines rusty paths and the purple-infused Irish potatoes plants are dotted amongst the fields, and small children dressed in red uniforms walk down long dirt tracks to school.
We were soon greeted by our partners Environment Africa (EA). Gwande, Progressio's counterpart, told us about the success of the programmes. Together Progressio and EA have been working with the people of the community helping them to bring positive change to their lives. Gwande said "In this area there's lots of rain and lots of underground water storage so the people drive sustainable livelihoods from that water, and at EA we're trying to show them the best practices".
There are farm schools in the area which means that anybody in the community, even those without access to ox-drawn draft power, can learn modern techniques of conservation farming. "We are working with 170 farmers in the district, and we hope to reach 900 families by the end of 2014", Gwande said. The schools are teaching people about the importance of taking care of the land and helping them to grow more varieties of produce such as: leafy vegetable, potatoes, tomatoes and maize to sell at local markets. The community now have more produce to feed to their families and have a more nutritious diet.
Gwande also talked about the success of the beekeeping workshops, which are teaching women to look after the forests when collecting honey; using modern methods which do not de-bark the trees. The workshops are also helping women to market their honey in clean containers so they can distribute the pots to other parts of Zimbabwe.
Gwande said the people of Wedza can now "take on conservation actively" and can "pass on best practices to others in the community, promoting organic production". Because of the success of the programmes the community are now working with Progressio to extend the catchment area, crossing T's and dotting I's on paperwork which will enable them to sell produce further afield in Zimbabwe and to other regions of Southern Africa. Gwande said "We have formed district groups of farmers that can provide honey for sale all year round".
Mrs Jasmine Chakoma is a beekeeper in Chigondo. She said because of the work of EA and Progressio, "we now able to do beekeeping, and sell the honey and take more money. We have learned new farming practices like using leaf-mould for fertilizer. Now we do not have to take all the money from our pockets to spend on fertilizer."
It was amazing to hear that the projects were so welcomed by the community and captivating to stand in fields which are central to the livelihoods of so many people.
Women and a long journey for water…
Perhaps the most remarkable part of my experience so far has been getting to know the women in communities like Wedza. Their strength, courage and resilience is astounding.
I met a woman famer called Rebecca. She is 57 and has lived in Chigondo for 38 years with her husband, Maraini. Rebecca really is the backbone of the family. Not only does she work on the farm and looks after her six grandchildren, but she is part of the women committees which manage the water in the community. Rebecca said "The women meet and talk about using the water sparingly and are responsible for enforcing the rules. Women are responsible for telling people off for using buckets, often the children. The rules are agreed by the whole village with the leadership of the men".
Progressio development worker, Philemon Handinanhano (a gender advocacy specialist), explained how women are a central part of survival in Wedza yet, like in many rural areas, "Decision-making is done by men. They decide how resources are spent. Women have no rights. Male children have more power than their mothers". This is changing in parts of Zimbabwe and Progressio is working with women's networks to ensure women know their rights, stand up for themselves and have access to the right support. However, for the time being the challenges remain for rural women like Rebecca who carries many heavy burdens.
Rebecca walks 2.5km for water which she collects from a borehole at the bottom of a steep hill, shared by three communities. I walked with her down a stony path, darted with shrubs and larger rocks which scuttled beneath my feet when I shuffled down sideways. The path was open to the sun and the heat made the journey that much more difficult, yet Rebecca rushed on ahead, bare-footed, carrying a red tarnished bucket labelled "medical waste".
The borehole was embedded in trees, protected by a wooden, make-shift fence to keep away the baboons. As she climbed in she grabbed her calabash, a dried squash shaped to form a scoop to collect the water. She scooped the water and passed buckets to neighbouring families waiting by the bore. It is amazing to see the sense of community the women of Wedza have. After ensuring other women had the water they needed she filled the red bucket, twisted her shawl in spirals to make a flat coaster which she put on her head. She lifted the 40 litres of water above her head and with her hands by her side she began to climb the hill.
Half way up she gave me the bucket to carry. With a beaming smile she watched as I struggled to balance the heavy load on my head and shuffle just a few short steps. I could not understand how she made this job look so easy, how she reckoned with the steep path every day or how she managed to walk for 2 hours per day to ensure her family were provided for.
Rebecca represents so many women in Zimbabwe. Her faith in God keeps her going and she lives to provide and care for her family and community. It made me happy to know that the work of Progressio is helping Rebecca and the women and families in Wedza.
Rebecca told us how the work of Progressio has transformed their lives. She said 'we are in love with the programme and hope to continue the work". When I asked her what she would say to Progressio supporters she said "you should continue to support the in conservation farming. People ask: how did you do it? More people are getting to know it. If the work continues they can adopt it. Their lives will also be uplifted".
Before we left Rebecca showed me around her house. Her plates were strategically places on a ledge, carved out of the solid mud hut. She had cooking materials spread out and a make-shift broom in the corner by a tiny window which cast light on her stove. She was incredibly proud of her house, which was well-kept, clean and, although extremely bare and basic, felt cosy; I instantly felt the presence of a family. She then handed out maize for us to take on our journey and picked fresh mangoes from her farm.
I have never met a woman with such pride and strength. Despite her struggle to survive, feed and bring water to her family, and the burden which comes with being a woman, she goes on smiling then gives blessings to us, waving us off after asking us to "please visit again".
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