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We arrived in Harare after 24 hours of travelling, a journey which on the surface seemed perfectly easy and worry free until I watched a Chinese couple spit chicken bones in a bag, cut their fingernails onto the floor beneath them, while sipping a brown liquid, with, what I can only describe as, worms floating in the bottom of it.
Apart from that Dan and I arrived safe and sound to 25 degree heat, and a relatively easy customs desk. We watched as everyone in front of us had their bags searched, dreading having to explain why we had 12 books on HIV work in Zimbabwe for a 'tourist' visit, when we were ushered towards the exit. It all seemed a little too easy, not wanting to tempt fate at the beginning of our trip.
Edwin met us from the airport with a huge smile on his face, dressed from head to toe in football memorabilia ready for the Zambia to defeat Ivory Coast. He was extremely excited, as were many other Zimbabweans when they won; banging drums and celebrating later in the evening.
We were completely wiped out after a day of travelling so after a quiet dinner in our hotel we were asleep by 8pm, lame but necessary.
Our first full day in Zimbabwe was very productive. We visited the rest of the team in the office, which was directly opposite the president's palace, adjacent to the police headquarters and a few doors away from national security. As we pulled up past the soldiers dressed in military uniform, carrying guns and marching back and forth it became very apparent that we were in a fragile state. Ronnie assured us we were the safest place, due to all the security and we soon began planning our trip.
In order to get by smoothly in Zimbabwe there is a very strict procedure to follow. Ahead of each visit we will have to mean head of security and ensure we meet the right people to ensure there is no trouble for the staff once we leave.
This morning we visited the General Secretary of the Bishops Conference, Fr Fred Chiromba, head of the organisation which makes it possible for Progressio to operate in the country. He was very laid back and happy to answer our questions. He talked about how important Progressio's work is to Zimbabweans and told us how he was extremely impressed by the development model. He talked of the crises that Zimbabwe has faced and said that the development workers have been so dependable and fundamental to many organisations especially during the problems of hyperinflation. He talked about Zimbabwe with hope and seemed to believe in a better future because of the strong will and strength of the people.
When I spoke to our county rep, Ronnie, after the meeting he explained the context of the Catholic Church in Zimbabwe by telling a story. He spoke of a district in Harare whose water was cut off for two weeks by the local council. The people of the community had to walk 10-15km to access water and the church did nothing. Instead, to remain onside with the government they waited a month and a half before they made a statement; a statement that was too little too late for the people of Harare. Ronnie told us that the church remains onside by quietly advising the government from the inside out. The never speak out, they simply whisper, bringing change slowly by remaining as peace-keepers.
No sooner had our first meeting ended, we were on the way to meet with Environment Africa; a partner which we had heard so many good things about that it was great to see it in the flesh. Barnabas, the country rep for Zimbabwe, had so much passion for the environmental projects. When we talked to him about Rio+20 and his hopes for a better Zimbabwe he shared with us his frustration. He called the current leaders 'stupid' and said that they need to make decisions and not waste time engaged in endless debates, but to instead 'make a difference and take action'. He described how environmental issues are linked to poverty and called for local people to be included and consulted in development. He told us a story of women walking 10km for water and of Environment Africa's desire to lobby more for the human right to access water. He said 'in Zimbabwe water is life' the government needs to stop wasting time making promises and start making changes. He said 'the world is losing time'. It was great to meet him and nice to know we were linked to such a positive organisation.
At the end of our first 24 hours here in Zimbabwe my first impression surprises me. The country is so green and pretty, there are flowers and trees everywhere and the city of Harare seems to appear out of the blue, like an African Las Vegas. Although small, it is a bustling city; people line the streets, school children fill buses and women walk with babies strap to their backs shopping for groceries. The people are extremely friendly, well dressed, polite and well mannered. I don't know what I expected, I suppose the negative images from the media have distorted my view, but I immediately feel calm and I'm excited for out next endeavour.
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