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Camper van days: PhillipIsland and the Great Ocean Road towards South Australia - Friday 11 September
Took the train out to where we were collecting our campervan.As we had left the map at Kelly's we got lost a few times before a kind postman took pity on us and dropped us at the door.After taking forever to go through all the workings of the gas, water, grey water, how to dump the bathroom water etc, we made our way back to Kelly's to pick up our bags.Apart from having to re-set the safe a few times and then theengine oil-level light coming on intermittently on our drive back, we feel a lot happier, as this camper feels more spacious and hopefully more comfortable than the nightmare that was the Jucy van.AJ was very excited about the van and jumped straight up to the driver's seat where he could just about see over the steering wheel.After being made so welcome, having so many good laughs and sharing so many funny and memorable moments, it was a very sad and tearful goodbye.Drove south to PhilipIsland and enjoyed the delights of the deluxe camper, which even has an extractor fan so you don't need to cook with the doors open in the blowing rain. What bliss!
Saturday 12
We drove across the island to watch the V8 Supercars at the Grand Prix circuit, as there was a big race fixture.As we drove in we were stopped at the gate and told that we couldn't go in with any booze or any glass.We thought about hiding it all and going through another gate (which was the security guy's suggestion), but didn't really want to lose the booze if we did get caught, so drove back to the site to park up and then waited about 40 minutes for the bus to take us all the way back again. We watched the superbikes, mini cooper, and V8's race.We could only see small sections of the track, but were impressed at the speeds they were getting up to around the bends.Later, we went back to pick up the camper to travel to the Penguin Parade.The coastal road was fantastic and as it was a windy day we could see and hear the waves constantly pounding the coastline.It's a popular tourist site and we were obliged to follow the 'Ikea-walk' through the tacky gift shop (you won't miss a thing!) where you can have your photo taken with super-imposed plastic penguins for a small fortune, as you are not allowed any photography of the real thing!We were advised to get there early to get a good seat, so we waited the hour or so until dark. Then we spotted their little white bellies lifting out of the sea surf and wait at the surf's edge. They do this to test that it is dark enough before venturing onto the beach.They came ashore in groups (or 'rafts' as it is in penguin talk) of about 20.It must be quite frustrating for them as they try to waddle out of the sea, often to be pulled back in by the ebb and flow of the waves.They only grow to 33cm's, so are quite small.They seemed to wait for each other and only move off the beach and into the grassy areas when they deem it safe.The constant flapping and squawking of the seagulls must add to the stress.Once in land they go off to find their partners and then make up for lost time in the burrows. With all the noises and shuffling sounds coming from there they must have been away for some time.At least walking up through the boardwalk you get more up-close and personal with them and appreciate what comical characters they are.
Sunday 13
Realised we had accidentally left a couple of things at Kelly and Andrew's so drove back to pick them up and see them for a final goodbye, more laughter and more tears.Started our journey to the Great Ocean Road and stopped off at Torquay for lunch, which is where the GOR starts.Beautiful scenery and the road runs right along the coast edge at this stretch.Stopped off at a few places on route but decided to stay in ApolloBay.As we had been driving for most of the day we were fed up with the inside of the camper so found a great seafood restaurant for dinner.
Monday 14
As we were facing east out to sea we set the alarm to watch the sunrise, but just about lifted our heads off the pillow and realised we had missed it.Stopped off at Shelley Beach to follow a forest walk down to the bay where the sea was crashing against the rocks. Had a short walk along the beach before we realised that the tide was coming in and if we didn't hot foot it back we would be stranded.Continued on the OtwayNational Park for the tree top walk, which is a man-made network of metal bridges built high in the tree tops.We climbed the tower, which was swaying all over the place aided by a load of delinquent teenagers bounding up the stairs, bit scary!We walked out on a cantilever bridge that wobbled in the wind and could appreciate how much the tops of the trees sway in the wind.We drove inland to Colac, but on reaching there and finding an ugly town full of McDonalds and Hungry Jacks, we decided to turn back again and head back towards the coast to find a more picturesque place to stay.We were glad we did as we stopped off at Port Campbell, where a pleasant campsite was located right in the centre of town.Had a walk around the small town and a few games of pool in the local.
Tuesday 15
We headed off to see the Red Rocks volcanic crater, which unless you were told, you wouldn't really think it was a volcanic crater at all. However, we were rewarded with great 360-degree views over the hills and out to sea.We then drove on down some never-ending dirt tracks to do some walks, but found that they were either closed due to land slides or the map was crap and we couldn't find them.We went on to try the Anchor Walk and bounced and rattled along this nightmare road where we were dodging pot holes and great big cracks in the soil.It was great fun.We walked down the 366 steps to WreckBeach, which was strewn with beautifully coloured rocks and ship-wrecked anchors.We tried to walk along the coast to see the anchors that were rising just above sea level, but (again) the tide was coming in and we had no choice but to turn back before reaching them.Onwards to the Gibson Steps, which are steps cut into the rock face that take you down to the ocean. (There's probably a good reason for them, but we couldn't spot one).From here you can see the beginning of the 12 Apostles rock formations, which are now the 9, due to coastal erosion from climate change, rising sea levels, etc.The road continued past the 12 apostles and we had a pit stop to take some photographs along with all the other tourists.It is amazing to witness the power of the sea by the amount of rock that has eroded away right from the cliff face which stands some 500 metres away.Stayed in Warnambool for the night and went into town to the local Indian restaurant for dinner and sat under the very bright lights as there seemed to be in most of the restaurants. A little scare, when we were told it was BYO, but luckily, there was a bottle shop nearby.As we seem to value drink over food, perhaps, in future, we should just take the food to the bottle shop.
Wednesday 16
Had breakfast in the 'quaint town' (or so it says in the guide book) of Port Fairy and then went on to Portland where there were two whales playing close to the shore.Unfortunately, they stayed under the water and we didn't get to see much of them at all.We went to the VintageCarMuseum and got chatting to an interesting old bloke who knows just about everything there is to know about cars.As we drove on we risked not stopping at the food quarantine site and broke for the quarantine border in to South Australia with a carrot and courgette. Bloody hell we are just so crazy and rebellious!We then went on to the VolcanicLakes and stayed at a site near BlueLakes.We shopped for some BBQ food and then went to the games room for some car racing and shooting games.As it absolutely tipped it down and the BBQ was over the other side of the campsite, we BBQ'd inside the camper and had a cosy night in with the travel Scrabble and a DVD!
Thursday 17
We had wanted to walk around the volcano crater of BlueLake, but rain stopped play yet again.The thought of trying to dry our clothes in the camper put us off!We then crossed back over the border (carrot and courgette still on board!) to visit the MargaretRoseCaves, named after the hedonistic, chain-smoking, gin-swilling sister of the Queen (although it doesn't use this phrase in the information boards).We were taken on a 40-minute tour with a monotone guide that couldn't say anything much apart from her well-rehearsed patter - 'Please walk in single file through the passage' - although there was only the two of us.The story of the caves was of a boy who had been throwing stones down the hole in the ground for 16 years before talking his friends into tying a rope around his waist and lowering him in with just a candle and a box of matches.What he found was that there were some stunning formations of stalactites and stalagmites.Apparently, he was there for two hours, which must have been quite spooky with only a flickering flame for comfort.He and his friends then dug out steps for visitors to be able to also see these fantastic formations that have been taking shape for thousands of years.We took a walk down to the lake and through another forest before heading off for Umpherston Sinkhole (sunken gardens).We stopped for lunch in a café by the turquoise sea in Beachport and then after leaving there and stopping 20 km or so along the road for a photo opportunity we realised we had left the camera in the café.Flew back there with our hearts in our mouths and breathed a huge sigh of relief when the café owner was waving it around in her hand.Tired from driving, we stopped for the night in Robe which is another small, pretty coastal resort.
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