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So, I'm looking at the weather forecast here, and it tells me that I'm going to be cold and wet for some time. In Bavaria? Most people here are sympathetic - there's just no excusing this lousy weather. From what I read on facebook, however, I'm dodging the heat wave of the century in Kingston and Toronto, so maybe I should shut up. All the cold really does is to motivate me to move faster.
Because I'm not letting it stop me. Yesterday, I hiked up to the second lift station on the Nebelhorn - that's an ascent of about one thousand meters, thankfully nothing one has to climb, and a horizontal distance of about eight kilometres. I've never been more motivated to move by rain - both because it was the only way to stay warm, and because you could see it blowing in from the valley. You can take a cable car up if you're a rich wimp (round trip: around 25 euros) - pictured above - but it's an amazing walk; especially from the train station.
At the start, you walk through the nicer part of Oberstdorf; past the ski jumpers (who train all year round); up through some woods (wild raspberries by the side of the road); and then you break into increasingly sparse woods and alpine meadows. At the first cable car station, you walk out into a plateau with a lake and a 'thematic walk'; watch out, this is in part a field and there are live electric fences - you can see goats and cows if you're lucky, but you're more likely to hear them. If you continue on up, you get into the steep bit; the walk takes two hours up and one hour down. Let me say this: Gumdo peoples, this is good training! It will work your quads like mad!
By now, you're surrounded by drifting belts of cloud and rain, lizards, and wildflowers, plus the occasional hiker on his way down (wimps!). The temperature will drop sharply as you go, and your ears may pop, but keep on; it's worth it - for the descent, though, bring a sweater. Look back over your shoulder from time to time; it's the view that drove me up and up, higher and higher.
You'll come to the second lift station before you know it, just after you crest a ridge and about when you'll start wondering if you're on the right path. I can't say that the cake is great or cheap, but sitting down for something at the restaurant is absolutely necessary; I was going to walk down again and I needed the calories just to stay warm. Better prepared hikers would do well to bring a thermos of tea and some sandwiches.
I wanted to stay up, but it was three in the afternoon by the time I made it up the hill (I started at ten, but that includes time spent getting lost and eating lunch). It was also bloody freezing - my complaints about the weather stand for review. Would I do it again? If I had my way, I would have brought a tent with me and stayed the night. As it was, I walked down again - and on the way down, you look into the valley. Nearly fell a couple of times!
Now, I'm in Munich; the weather continues to be cold and rainy. Not sure what I'm going to do tonight - I'm staying at THE TENT (thanks, Jennifer) and apparently there's live music; I have laundry to take care of; and I could use a haircut, to be honest. Tomorrow, I'll check out a few of the museums - on Sunday many have a 1 euro admission fee, though they do have reduced hours. I'll let you all know - all three or four people reading my blog, anyhow - how it went.
Cheers!
- comments
Ritchie Hey Geoff, too bad it's wet but you seem to be managing to have a good time anyway. I was in Bavaria as a school kid - they took us to see Hitler's mountain place near Berchesgarten (spelling?) when I stayed in Austria. Sounds like museums tomorrow may be a great idea.
Geoffrey Leslie *Berchtesgarten - looks cool, actually. Garmish-Patenkirchen is to the south and just a hair west of Munich... looks like out of range of a day trip, sorry :/
G *BerchtesGADEN. Ag!