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We left El Calafate for a long day on the road, with two border crossings and a ferry crossing. We had to leave Argentina, cross into Chille for a couple of hours, get the ferry across the Strait of Magellan (where we lost our door), cross back into Argentina and then finally arrive at our camp site. 13hrs on the road. Long day because border crossings here aren't the fastest in the world. Anyway, I'm sure you are wondering how we lost our door!
The truck drove onto the ferry and we got off while we crossed. We were a little tardy in getting back onto the truck. One person got on and because they were short they couldn't close the door so one of the guys on the truck said ´no worries, I´ll close it´. In the meantime, the door got slightly wedged against another Tucan truck that was also on the ferry. They were waved off and not knowing our door was stuck, they drove off the ferry and a couple of the door hinges came away. The door was half on. Ross, the Tour leader was with us as we still hadn't got on the truck. He said ´just hold it closed till we get off the ferry´. When Adrian tried to close it, it totally came off so they picked up the door and walked off the ferry with it. Anyway, it wasn´t damaged so it was about 20 mins before it was back on which was good, because you would not believe how windy it was. You couldn't even walk in a straight line. Incredible.
So that night, we were meant to camp in a town called Rio Grande. We pulled into our campsite which was basically the parking lot of the local yacht club. No one looked very impressed but as it turned out we didn't have to pitch our tents. We were able to take our sleeping gear and crash on the upstairs floor of this big shed. There was 32 of us (one person pitched a tent) plus 12 people on the other Tucan truck. We were rather cozy but at least we were warm. Since we had such a long day, Ross ordered pizzas in for our dinner which was nice.
Then onto Ushuaia which was only a 3hr drive which was nice. Nice campsite but I paid the difference to sleep in a dorm room with 6 others. Worth it, nice and cozy. That afternoon wandered into town to check out the options for boat cruises on the Beagle Channel and checked out town. Back to our campsite and caught up on my written journal and then was flicking through our itinerary when I realised that entry to the Tierra del Fuego National Park here should be included for us (ie paid by Tucan). We had been told it was an optional excursion and it would have cost us about US$30 to get out there and for entry. Showed Ross who thought I was wrong, but after some explaining he went away and then realised it should be included. That was good news because I wasn't going to go because of the cost.
That night a Kumuka truck pulled in and I finally got to catch up with Lisa, who was on the boat with me out at the Galapagos Islands. Their truck has been ahead of us and we keep going to the same spots, just not at the same time so it was good to share stories.
Thursday morning went into town and visited the prison which has been turned into a museum with exhibits on the prison, Antarctica, maritime history and an art gallery. Ushuaia was actually started as a penal colony which I did not know. That afternoon we went on a cruise on the Beagle Channel. Just a tad chilly out on the boat but the sun came out and it was a nice afternoon. That night the campsite cooked a fabulous BBQ for us for dinner. Nice juicy steak.
Friday, the majority of us got the transfer to the NP and then went on a long walk. It was beautiful out there. Views of surrounding mountains, some with snow, beautiful blue water and so peaceful and calm. Walked about 13kms which was good to stretch the legs. Just stunning and glad I got to get out there.
That night, Emma and I went and had Dinner with the Beavers. We booked it in town after hearing about it from someone else. We were taken about 25kms out of town to this refugio and then we were taken down to some dams to see beavers. The government introduced 25 couples back in the 1940's to start a fur trade but it never took off, but the beavers did. There is now 100,000 here and since they have no natural predators they keep increasing which means lots of damage to the forests. Got to see a few different ones, they are rather large and can walk on their back two legs, which I didn't know. They also like apples!!! We then had dinner in the refugio. Met a lovely American couple and just had a great night.
Yesterday was another long drive to Punta Arenas, back in Chile. Just a night stopover but we aren't leaving till midday today. Ross and Ewan are doing a big grocery shop since we are heading into Torres del Paine National Park and we need food for the next few days. Really looking forward to getting into the park but not looking forward to the cold. I've just bought a blanket to try and keep a little warmer at night, there won't be any chance of upgrading to a bed there.
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