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Maya's World Tour (with sister Fish)
Leh, India
Hello! I'm in India traveling with my sister which most of you know. I'd love to email you all individually but i'm going to send a bulk email to everyone until I can do that. I was for the past 5 days recovering from altitude sickness having travelled from Manali up to Leh for two days. I shall try to recount some of what I have experienced. It's quite long but I think worth the read so either give it a brief skim through in 3 minutes or give yourself a bit more time and try to absorb some of what I am trying to show of what I have seen and experienced so far - I think it's worth it:)
I arrived in Delhi on the 27th September where we were immediately ripped off and tricked and ended up paying 800 rupees for a room (may not sound like a lot but you can get a room here for 90 to 150 that are in even better condition!) basically the cab driver took us to an office of his own accord (where he'll get a commission) which was one of many 'Tour operators' who apparantely 'called' the hotel we were interested in. Told us it was 'fully booked' and booked us the expensive one (where they'll get a commission). It's a classic con that we read about afterwards in the Lonely Planet (which of course we should have read before!). They then proceeded to try and sell us their tours and get us to cancel the bookings we'd already made and book with them instead but we'd kind of cottoned on by then.
Delhi:
Waiting for our sleeper bus to go to Manali which is a bus with long seatish 'beds' in it. You pay more for a bed, otherwise you spend the entire overnight journey in a seat - which is no big deal as there are many stops but got to admit having a bed was much nicer! So we are waiting for our sleeper bus. A girl under 8 yrs is with a boy under 7 yrs. She is a contortionist and does her flexible moves whilst he drums a drum to go with her moves and spins a ball attached to a string attached to his cap by rotating his head in circles. After they ask for money. The waiting group made up of Europeans smile but looks on. I can't bear it and give them some money. They later see me eating some snacks and motion in gesture to ask if they can have some. They sit on the roadside together and eat them. I prefer to give them food though then money as the money will probably go to the parents or 'caretakers' who send them out. Lonely Planet also recommends giving them pens instead of money.
Manali & Old Manali:
Reach Manali. Stay a few days and then go to old Manali. Old Manali is different - more for hippies, tourists and apparantely those who smoke weed. Clothes sold are hippy clothes, not punjabi or indian as in central Manali. Here they even have a piercing and dreadlocks shop. Meet an Italian guy here who's come here for 9 years. He says 9 years ago was much better. The hippies were so cool, it was a good community and guest houses were given for free to them but then over time they invited their friends and took advantage and the new hippies aren't the same. Still he's decided to settle in old Manali for good. He says that although he finds it more open minded here then in Europe it's not the same in the rest of India which he says in some areas aren't as nice or accepting.
Old Manali to Leh (all within Ladakh):
Going from Manali up mountains to Leh which takes two days (except for altitude sickness) found it extremely beautiful - like looking up to Switzerland, Austria or Canada. Lush green valleys with trees and rivers running amid huge boulders (sometimes you can see people attached to wires connected to each side, their friends bouncing them so that their feet touch the rushing river) and waterfalls intermingle with red mountains with grey snowy himalayan mountains in the background which get closer as we get higher. They become immense and the desire is to be there. To touch the snow, to scoop it, to lick it like something desirable to be experienced through touch and taste (reality is a different story - one man told us of his attempt to climb the Himalayas with his three friends. One was hit with altitude sickness badly but they kept climbing until his friend's vomit became blood ridden. The man couldn't bear it and took his friend back down, dumping the stuff when his friend couldn't go on and carrying him on his back. The other two friends kept climbing but soon they turned back. The sick man recovered in hospital at the bottom and his family are eternally grateful to him for saving their son).
After a day traveling via jeep we spend one night in a Nepalesian nomad (beautiful traditional dressed people, baby wrapped to back of mother)dhaba(camp with large circular tents with sleeping beds running around it's perimetre and in the centre sometimes a hot charcoal stove or gas canisters with small cooking stoves). The night is full of stars - millions sparkle brightly against a dark blue sky with black huge mountains surrounding the camp. But the stink of petrol from the gas canisters used, buses, jeeps and other vehicles that stop here penetrate what should be clear fresh mountain air. From here on I feel sick.
Next day we continue to circle from mountain to mountain and stop briefly at the top of one - Toglong La. It's the 2nd highest road pass in the world with the highest temple atop a red barren mountain surrounded by red barren mountains all around - before our descent down the other side.
Onwards, passed the most beautiful stream I have ever seen, crystal clear turqoise colours mix with emerald green trickle over small, perfect pebbles fit for mermaids. It runs inbetween the mountains becoming wider. (Tip - make sure during gobsmacking moments that your window is down - it makes the world of difference in seeing with vivid clarity and I can only imagine how more beautiful it would have been with the window down - I tested it and yes it makes a difference!). After a while we pass a Himalayan ravine of amazing colours - various deep pink colours of which chipping reveals unreal contrasting colours of dark pink on one side of rock and a deep green colour on the other side.
From Manali to Leh there were many stupas and tibetan influenced temples although in Leh, Lamo (a sweet girl who works in the guest house we are now staying in) tells how the people here are mostly neither Indian, nor Tibetan nor Nepalesian but Ladakhian (although there seems to be much tibetan influence here and signs of interest in the Dalai Lama is evident every so often).
With altitude sickness and my sister thinking she's been food poisoned we are dropped straight to Leh hospital. We are tested are given pills and injections (take your own injections - India is the 2nd fastest HIV spreading country after Africa) and I am put onto oxygen for 3 hours. I am grateful that I have stopped being sick and just need to bear the other symptoms of dizziness, nausea, weakness, strong headache and constant sleepiness.
Now:
We now stay in Asia Guest House in Changspa, Leh. Our room overlooks the surrounding bare as well as snow topped Himalayan mountains. Leh is an old town nestled inbetween them. The garden next to the cafe downstairs grows flowers and vegetables. Next to it is a section of earth where I watched the locals yesterday hoe the soil, unearthing potatoes. Beyond this is a small river which we can constantly hear and although beautiful to look at and now listen to was, in the mornings, unbearably loud at night when I had altitude sickness and lay in bed. Breakfast consists of Ladakhian bread and butter with homemade jam (full of huge fruits - unlike sparse western jam) made of local fruits. In the centre of Leh they serve momos, thick, chunky porride type soups with bread and in some places tibetan hot butter tea (savoury not sweet with a distinctive buttery taste).
We have to ask for buckets of hot water as pipes freeze and hot water can thus be unreliable. It is deceptively hot during the day and freezing at night. We find ourselves under layers of clothes and blankets. My sister wears all her skiing gear and I am grateful for the mini hotwater bottle I brought and travel kettle to get some hot water when not available.
Lamo is 19 yrs. She's up at 6am, works in the guest house (including scrubbing floors, cooking, serving, cleaning etc) until 9am, goes to school (which in Leh includes Saturdays), comes back and works until 9pm, does her homework until 10pm then sleeps. Her little cousin does the same. Sunday is no school but they have to work. I found that they wash dishes in freezing cold water because there is such little opportunity for hot water - which is given to the guests. Lamo says that English is not taught in school. Both her and her cousin are self taught from working in the guest house. The language here is Ladakhian (according to cab driver Sonam learnable in 20 days).
In Delhi cattle seemed to have owners. In Manali and Leh cattle and donkeys roam around in terrible condition seemingly without owners, and of course, as in Delhi, the abandoned dogs. Cattle are regularly seen eating out of garbage or dumps of rotting or rotten produce. Dogs will look everywhere, salvaging what they can out of sewers.
Women working wear scarfs around their heads to protect against heat as well as cold. The men wear hats or nothing. Traditional dress here is Ladakhian although sometimes tibetan and frequently indian pujabi suits are worn. The younger generation don trainers, jacket, jeans and tops - anything western influenced. In one restaurant Beyonce is played, Justin Timberlake appears on asian TV whilst others may play Indian movies.
So, that's a general overview - it's a skimmed version not full fat believe it or not and that's what's happened in just over a week and a half of having arrived here. I hope you found it interesting. Love you all and email me and let me know what you've been up to or just to say hi. I miss you all terribly - Love Mayaxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I arrived in Delhi on the 27th September where we were immediately ripped off and tricked and ended up paying 800 rupees for a room (may not sound like a lot but you can get a room here for 90 to 150 that are in even better condition!) basically the cab driver took us to an office of his own accord (where he'll get a commission) which was one of many 'Tour operators' who apparantely 'called' the hotel we were interested in. Told us it was 'fully booked' and booked us the expensive one (where they'll get a commission). It's a classic con that we read about afterwards in the Lonely Planet (which of course we should have read before!). They then proceeded to try and sell us their tours and get us to cancel the bookings we'd already made and book with them instead but we'd kind of cottoned on by then.
Delhi:
Waiting for our sleeper bus to go to Manali which is a bus with long seatish 'beds' in it. You pay more for a bed, otherwise you spend the entire overnight journey in a seat - which is no big deal as there are many stops but got to admit having a bed was much nicer! So we are waiting for our sleeper bus. A girl under 8 yrs is with a boy under 7 yrs. She is a contortionist and does her flexible moves whilst he drums a drum to go with her moves and spins a ball attached to a string attached to his cap by rotating his head in circles. After they ask for money. The waiting group made up of Europeans smile but looks on. I can't bear it and give them some money. They later see me eating some snacks and motion in gesture to ask if they can have some. They sit on the roadside together and eat them. I prefer to give them food though then money as the money will probably go to the parents or 'caretakers' who send them out. Lonely Planet also recommends giving them pens instead of money.
Manali & Old Manali:
Reach Manali. Stay a few days and then go to old Manali. Old Manali is different - more for hippies, tourists and apparantely those who smoke weed. Clothes sold are hippy clothes, not punjabi or indian as in central Manali. Here they even have a piercing and dreadlocks shop. Meet an Italian guy here who's come here for 9 years. He says 9 years ago was much better. The hippies were so cool, it was a good community and guest houses were given for free to them but then over time they invited their friends and took advantage and the new hippies aren't the same. Still he's decided to settle in old Manali for good. He says that although he finds it more open minded here then in Europe it's not the same in the rest of India which he says in some areas aren't as nice or accepting.
Old Manali to Leh (all within Ladakh):
Going from Manali up mountains to Leh which takes two days (except for altitude sickness) found it extremely beautiful - like looking up to Switzerland, Austria or Canada. Lush green valleys with trees and rivers running amid huge boulders (sometimes you can see people attached to wires connected to each side, their friends bouncing them so that their feet touch the rushing river) and waterfalls intermingle with red mountains with grey snowy himalayan mountains in the background which get closer as we get higher. They become immense and the desire is to be there. To touch the snow, to scoop it, to lick it like something desirable to be experienced through touch and taste (reality is a different story - one man told us of his attempt to climb the Himalayas with his three friends. One was hit with altitude sickness badly but they kept climbing until his friend's vomit became blood ridden. The man couldn't bear it and took his friend back down, dumping the stuff when his friend couldn't go on and carrying him on his back. The other two friends kept climbing but soon they turned back. The sick man recovered in hospital at the bottom and his family are eternally grateful to him for saving their son).
After a day traveling via jeep we spend one night in a Nepalesian nomad (beautiful traditional dressed people, baby wrapped to back of mother)dhaba(camp with large circular tents with sleeping beds running around it's perimetre and in the centre sometimes a hot charcoal stove or gas canisters with small cooking stoves). The night is full of stars - millions sparkle brightly against a dark blue sky with black huge mountains surrounding the camp. But the stink of petrol from the gas canisters used, buses, jeeps and other vehicles that stop here penetrate what should be clear fresh mountain air. From here on I feel sick.
Next day we continue to circle from mountain to mountain and stop briefly at the top of one - Toglong La. It's the 2nd highest road pass in the world with the highest temple atop a red barren mountain surrounded by red barren mountains all around - before our descent down the other side.
Onwards, passed the most beautiful stream I have ever seen, crystal clear turqoise colours mix with emerald green trickle over small, perfect pebbles fit for mermaids. It runs inbetween the mountains becoming wider. (Tip - make sure during gobsmacking moments that your window is down - it makes the world of difference in seeing with vivid clarity and I can only imagine how more beautiful it would have been with the window down - I tested it and yes it makes a difference!). After a while we pass a Himalayan ravine of amazing colours - various deep pink colours of which chipping reveals unreal contrasting colours of dark pink on one side of rock and a deep green colour on the other side.
From Manali to Leh there were many stupas and tibetan influenced temples although in Leh, Lamo (a sweet girl who works in the guest house we are now staying in) tells how the people here are mostly neither Indian, nor Tibetan nor Nepalesian but Ladakhian (although there seems to be much tibetan influence here and signs of interest in the Dalai Lama is evident every so often).
With altitude sickness and my sister thinking she's been food poisoned we are dropped straight to Leh hospital. We are tested are given pills and injections (take your own injections - India is the 2nd fastest HIV spreading country after Africa) and I am put onto oxygen for 3 hours. I am grateful that I have stopped being sick and just need to bear the other symptoms of dizziness, nausea, weakness, strong headache and constant sleepiness.
Now:
We now stay in Asia Guest House in Changspa, Leh. Our room overlooks the surrounding bare as well as snow topped Himalayan mountains. Leh is an old town nestled inbetween them. The garden next to the cafe downstairs grows flowers and vegetables. Next to it is a section of earth where I watched the locals yesterday hoe the soil, unearthing potatoes. Beyond this is a small river which we can constantly hear and although beautiful to look at and now listen to was, in the mornings, unbearably loud at night when I had altitude sickness and lay in bed. Breakfast consists of Ladakhian bread and butter with homemade jam (full of huge fruits - unlike sparse western jam) made of local fruits. In the centre of Leh they serve momos, thick, chunky porride type soups with bread and in some places tibetan hot butter tea (savoury not sweet with a distinctive buttery taste).
We have to ask for buckets of hot water as pipes freeze and hot water can thus be unreliable. It is deceptively hot during the day and freezing at night. We find ourselves under layers of clothes and blankets. My sister wears all her skiing gear and I am grateful for the mini hotwater bottle I brought and travel kettle to get some hot water when not available.
Lamo is 19 yrs. She's up at 6am, works in the guest house (including scrubbing floors, cooking, serving, cleaning etc) until 9am, goes to school (which in Leh includes Saturdays), comes back and works until 9pm, does her homework until 10pm then sleeps. Her little cousin does the same. Sunday is no school but they have to work. I found that they wash dishes in freezing cold water because there is such little opportunity for hot water - which is given to the guests. Lamo says that English is not taught in school. Both her and her cousin are self taught from working in the guest house. The language here is Ladakhian (according to cab driver Sonam learnable in 20 days).
In Delhi cattle seemed to have owners. In Manali and Leh cattle and donkeys roam around in terrible condition seemingly without owners, and of course, as in Delhi, the abandoned dogs. Cattle are regularly seen eating out of garbage or dumps of rotting or rotten produce. Dogs will look everywhere, salvaging what they can out of sewers.
Women working wear scarfs around their heads to protect against heat as well as cold. The men wear hats or nothing. Traditional dress here is Ladakhian although sometimes tibetan and frequently indian pujabi suits are worn. The younger generation don trainers, jacket, jeans and tops - anything western influenced. In one restaurant Beyonce is played, Justin Timberlake appears on asian TV whilst others may play Indian movies.
So, that's a general overview - it's a skimmed version not full fat believe it or not and that's what's happened in just over a week and a half of having arrived here. I hope you found it interesting. Love you all and email me and let me know what you've been up to or just to say hi. I miss you all terribly - Love Mayaxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
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