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Hi Everyone
Well by now you all are probably thinking that I have fallen off the edge of the World (well at least the edge of Central America). Not so. I have just spent three glorious weeks living the secluded Carribean Island life but may I say that spending time in paradise certainly comes at a price. I endured the trip from hell getting to paradise and this is how my island adventure starts:
Had read and heard a little bit about the Corn Islands off the east coast of Nicaragua but dismissed them as a destination as it was too expensive too fly and to do the overland trip by bus and ferry was too dangerous on my own so I didn't give it too much thought. That was until a fellow travellor, Eddie (from Israel), decided that he was going to head out as it was not that expensive to stay on the island and the overland trip made it affordable to get there. I jumped at the chance to spend some time on a Carribean Island and so invited myself to tag along. It was ideal as I would have not only a companion for the long trip but my own personal bodyguard.
The ferry from Rama to Bluefields only sailed 2 days a week, Wednesday and Saturday. It was possible to catch the bus from Managua at 9pm (Nicargua's capital city) and connect with the 5:30am Panga (speed boat) from Rama to Bluefields and then the 9am ferry from Bluefields to Big Corn. As it was only Monday we decided to cut the trip in half and spend the night in Bluefields before catching the ferry as it gave us the chance to explore another of Nicaragua's towns, plus it sounded like we could get lobster very cheap.
We left Granada at around 4pm for the 1 hour bus trip to Managua. Even though the bus didn't leave until 9pm Managua is known as a VERY dodgy city and so we wanted to get to the bus station before nightfall so that we could settle into a safe spot. Once we arrived to Managua we had to grab a taxi to get to the specific bus station. Arrived at the bus station at 6pm with 3 hours to kill. Not much too do except watch spanish TV. Our bus left pretty much on time and we started our journey. You might wonder why the bus left so late. Well the panga's leave early in the morning to miss the heat so the bus needs to arrive before their departure. However for some reason the bus arrives at like 3am so you have to wait around for 2.5 hours but I suppose its better than leaving near midnight from Managua. The bus stopped several times for smoko and for even an hour in one town so really the trip should only take about 4.5 hours instead of 6 hours. It was not a pleasant journey as it was cramped and the stereo was blaring extremely loud but I suppose that was better than having the bus driver fall asleep at the wheel. By the time we arrived at Rama we were pretty tired. We then had to wait and get our ticket allocation for the Panga. Being tourists and not knowing how it all works we where last in line and so on one of the last boats to leave. At 5:30 am we boarded our speed boat, it then took another half hour to depart as some of the passengers were travelling with more than one piece of luggage and so were charged for this (about $5 I think) but of course no-one wanted to own up to their luggage hence the delay. Finally we departed at 6am for the 2 hour journey. It was an amazing trip along the Rio Escondido but being on a speed boat with your head down out of the wind becomes a bit hard to handle after the first 15 minutes and we had to endure 2 hours of it. It also rained for part of the journey and so we had to throw just a plastic sheet over us to keep dry. All in all it was interesting but in no means enjoyable.
We arrived at Bluefields just before 8am and I was thankfull to be back on land. The river was quite large and the boat went at quite a speed. Thankfully life jackets where mandatory and other than safety kept you cosy and warm.
Now we had the pleasure of finding cheap accommodation. Travelling with an Israelly you must always find the cheapest place to stay (and eat). The first couple of places we looked at were quite expensive (like more than $10us each) and so we had to walk arounda bit before we found a place for just over $5us per night. Well as they say you get what you pay for. The rooms were basic as was the shower and toilets but hey I had stayed in a lot worse so I was fine with the arrangements and Eddie was happy as it was nice and cheap.
We decided we would see if we could manage not having to have a sleep through the day and so went off to find out what Bluefields had to offer. Well the place was a dump, pretty much a hellhole and we had to fill in a whole day here. Managed to fill in the day with eating (but alas no Lobster as the season did not start for another day), internet and sleeping (decided that we couldn't make it to night). Met a guy at the hotel, Rafael from Uraguay, who was also heading to Corn Islands.
That night in Bluefields I slept fine but Eddie couldn't sleep in his bed as he said it smelt like s***e so at 3am he got up and sat with the security guard on the front porch for 3 hours. He said during that time there where lots of people walking around, mainly drug dealers and w****s with some horses thrown in there as well. Bluefields was certainly a dodgy place and we where happy to be leaving early the next day.
Got up early the next morning and made our way to the port to buy tickets. Rafael was with us and so now I had 2 body guards. Eddie and I commented to Rafael how we both did not enjoy boat rides and that we could feel quite nauseus. He thought this was quite funny but by the end of the trip we were the ones laughing not him. I am fine on a boat as long as I can lie down but unfortunately there was no room to lie down and we also had to sit outside as it was crowded inside. This was not a good start to the journey.
The ferry left at 9am and it took about an hour to pass through the river and reach the open sea. We stopped at another port first so that the ferry could be checked for fire extinguishes and that the passengers were wearing life jackets. There was also a storm out at sea and so there was also a question of whether we would sail or not.
We got the go ahead and we were off heading out to sea. At first it was OK but then they put the plastic coverings down and we could not see out of the boat very well. Eddie was not happy as he could no longer see the horizon and I felt pretty closed in but it was better than getting wet and the water was really starting to come in, our friend Rafael was just laughing at the whole thing. WEll the further we got out to sea the bigger the waves became and I felt REALLY sick. I was determined however not to throw up and just focused on one spot on the floor. AS the boat made its way up and down the waves I just kept looking at my spot as the waves where like something out of the movie 'Perfect Storm'. The passengers inside looking straight ahead would squeal with either delight or fear, I'm not sure which but you always knew when a big wave was coming up. As I was focusing on my spot on the floor vomit started to flow past right through my spot, ooo how gross. You might think by now that I would be throwing up myself but fortunately you could not smell it because of all of the water coming on board and so I was OK. Rafael was not laughing any more, he too started to vomit and did so several times before we reached Big Corn. Eddie and I managed to not throw up but we felt pretty ordinary and I must say it is not that pleasurable to feel that way for sooo many hours. All I could think of along the way was that there was nooo way that I was going to do that trip again and that I would look at flying on my return trip no matter what the cost.
We finally reached Big Corn around 3pm. Boy was seeing land the best thing ever. By now I was soaked through down to my underwear and my day bag with my passport and money and travel books was pretty wet. I managed to keep a bit of it dry and prayed that the important bits were OK and they were.
By now I was seriously thinking about spending a night in Big Corn as the boat for Little Corn didn't leave for another 1.5 hours and I was soaked through, Rafael was not going to travel any further that day and was staying the night in Big Corn but Eddie was keen to keep moving and so I decided to keep going as well. Why not, might as well get this trip from hell over and done with. We then met another guy who had been on the ferry who was also heading to Little Corn. His name was Fred and he was from France (but now lives in Dublin, Ireland) and loved to used the 'F' word and wrather than being offensive it was always funny because of his accent. He then became know as Fred the 'F###' Frenchman. Well Fred also spent the trip throwing up and there was no way he was going to catch the ferry back and anyway you had to be there as it was just funny how we just talked about this journey from hell for the next 7days.
By 4:30pm I had forgotten all about the 6 hour ferryride from hell and we boarded our speed boat for little Corn. This trip was only 30 minutes and was quite refreshing after what we had just experienced and it was quite funny that everyone else on the boat who had flown in thought that this ride was hell and was quite shocked when I explained that this was quite a joyride after what we had just experienced for the past 6 hours.
Well the journey from hell was well worth it. The Island was beautiful in its own little way. The water was the colour that I had only seen in photos before and the water was warm but refreshing at the same time. The island had no cars on it and you could walk from one side to the other in about 15 minutes. We feasted on fish, prawns and lobster (but not every night. The food was expensive compared to the mainland but you had no choice) and really did nothing. The guys stayed for a week. Eddie and Rafael braved the ferry back while Fred the 'F·····' Frenchman flew a few days earlier. I was quite sad when Fred left as he was a funny man and really kept us occupied with his stories (and swearing). I was not alone though as I had met many other people who was staying in the same area as myself.
I spent just under 3 weeks on the Island and if I wasn't so keen to visit Columbia I would of stayed another month maybe even two. So what does one do on an island for this amount of time, well nothing really. The first week with the guys we joked every day about how we did nothing today, again!!!! We did however gather fruits from nature, mangoes, avocado's and even limes. Some of us even explored the island with its many paths through the jungle. For me however, I really did do just nothing. It was chill out time that I had been looking for since leaving Australia. Some days I went swimming yet other days I would just chat with the locals or other travellers. Managed to read a few books (read 'The Kite Runner' which was excellent. Definately worth a read) and had a few sleep-ins. Went to the Pink house every other day to buy fresh coconut bread and cinnamon buns (the lady only baked every second day) and some days I would just look out at the blue Carribean sea. We had quite a few storms while I was there so it wasn't all sunshine and sea. The thunder clapped louder than I have ever heard before and the lightning would just light up the whole island, I had after all come in the rainy season.
I initially thought that I would stay a week or maybe two if I really like it. Well two became nearly 3 and I could of easily of made it 4 but I hade to make the break. Once I had decided to leave I also decided I would try and make it into Costa Rica the same day as leaving Little Corn or as close too. The journey back was not as adventurous thanks to my Virgin Mastercard. No way was I going to endure that trip a second time. Caught the Panga to Big Corn and I managed to get a seat on the early plane (8:20am) back to Managua. It took only 20 minutes to fly to Bluefields, a lot more civilised than the 6 hour ferry trip and then another 50 minutes to Managua. I then jumped in a taxi to the bus terminal and got on the bus for the Costa Rican border. Made it to the border around 2:30pm and it took about an hour to get through both borders as it was a pretty crazy place. Had just missed the bus to Liberia so jumped in a taxi with 3 other backpackers and made the 2 hour journey for $9us each. Seems cheap for a cab I know but the bus would of been less than $2us. I am now in San Jose, the capital of Costa Rica. Another dodgy capital city but the shopping looks great so will hit them tomorrow. Will not be spending much time in Costa Rica as the boat for Columbia leaves Panama in a weeks time so I must get to Panama by the end of the week so that I can visit the canal.
I am sorry this blog has become sooo long. I will load up my photos tomorrow giving you time to visualise my time on a Carribean Island.
Before I go I must say thanks to everyone for your messages and emails. I really appreciate them and I wish I could reply to all of them but there is never enough time, after all I must leave time to do nothing.
Luv Fi xxxx
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