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9 days in the sacred valley. The journey began with the ride to Ooyanta Tambo. Two hours by collectivo (mini van) out of the congested city of Cusco, through Andino farmland and into the heart of the sacred valley. The collectivo was full, as usual, but did not smell awful, which was unusual. The steep decent into Ooyanta Tambo revealed ruins as impressive as any and the most well preserved Inca city in Peru. One boiled corn on the cobb for the lady, some Pringles for me and we climbed aboard the train for Aguas Calientes. The train ride was luxurious; comfortable seats, panoramic windows and hot cocoa tea. About an hour and half along the Urabamba River, in the shadows of ever-growing mountain tops. Coming off the train was typical Peruvian madness so we swam through the crowds and found an affordable hostel...damp as a wet sock. Aguas Calientes is a charming little tourist town with inflated prices and lots of tourists. One might say it's the Banff of Peru, food and water double in price. We strolled around town, had some veggie taqeños for dinner and headed back to our humble abode to prepare for the big day.
It was a little bit like Christmas morning and I was too excited to sleep. The weather was perfect, broken sky with pockets of cloud that would conceal and then reveal different peaks. Obviously not knowing what I was in for, I started taking pictures on the bus ride up. We made it up switch back after switch back, got our passports stamped and we were on our way to Machu Picchu.
We had seen every documentary possible but nothing could prepare us for our first sight of the ruins. The agricultural terraces, endless flights of stairs, temples and houses are matched only by the views of the mountains and the running river in the valley below. Filled with a sense of gratitude and respect we silently began to wander towards the enormous staircases. Built between two peaks, the ruins are divided into two sections by a geological fault line. The western side is the agricultural area and on the east, the Inca city. The architecture on both sides is remarkable yet the most amazing engineering here is subtle or completely invisible. The grade of the entire place directs rain water from both sides to the fault line in the middle, where they've constructed a massive channel for the excess water to escape, preventing erosion in the terraces and flooding in the city. The story goes that a peak stood tall where the ruins are now and an earthquake brought it down. The ruins are constructed with the stones from the crumbled mountain. The peaks on either side are named Montaña Machu Picchu and Huanya Picchu.
The flood of tourists began to roll in around 10am, so we decided to take a hike...to Intipunku, the sun gate. Michelle was nursing a stubborn head cold that I gave her for Christmas so we took our time, stopping often to take in the scenery and achhhhooooo into a hanky. As the view of the ruins began to fade the sun gate came into sight. Resting in the saddle of two peaks, Intipunku offers a birds eye of the ruins, Huayna Picchu and the eastern Andean valley. It's also the entrance to the the sacred site from the famous Inca trail. As we sat, resting and soaking in the scenery we welcomed and congratulated a group that just arrived after 4 days hiking of the trail. It only took us around 25 min to get down the well constructed stone trail and we headed to the " area of exploitation" to kick off our shoes and do some yoga. Michelle did one pose, Svasana, and I went through my series channelling the strength and balance of the Incas. Both feeling rejuvenated, we took some pictures as the rains came sending the tourists running for cover or back down the mountain. The short shower ceased and as the sky cleared a rainbow formed over the northern valley. We spent the last hour wandering through the city and temples taking pictures of stone and llamas. It was not so important to see every detail as it was to just be there and see the view from all directions. We had received everything we could from Machu Picchu and took the bus ride down. We reflected on the day as we shared an over priced dinner.
Onwards to Santa Theresa. A three hour walk, mas o menos, downstream and along the railroad tracks to the hydro electric station. A gorgeous day for a walk it was, blue sky but not too hot. A little shepherd cross, we named Tito lead the way through the turns and tunnels, until he found a couple that was willing to share their snack with him, then we got ditched. The scene was something out of Jurassic Park, enormous green mountains covered in tropical canopy with the mighty Urabamba cutting in between them. The river runs north into the Putamayo River at the base of the amazon, this is where the jungle begins. We reached the bridge just before the hydro electric plant and took a few minutes to look in amazement at the ferocity of the river. When we arrived at the station we took a short taxi into Santa Theresa.
There isn't much to Santa Theresa, just a small central square and a main drag with restaurants. The 4th hostel we investigated was the one for us and we booked the room for the night with a view of the mountains and the sound of the river. Being as it was, a Sunday, it meant that all of the men were drinking and all the kids were lighting firecrackers, so we joined the fun, had a cusqueña beer and watched the show. The reason we we were in town was to enjoy El Baños Thermales so after sun set we caught a cab to the Coca Mayo hot springs.
A perfect night, clear and moonless with a little rain. The springs consist of 3 large pools, in 3 tiers, from hot to warm to cool. Set against a jagged mountain, the floor of the pool is natural rock. We sat, swam and relaxed in the hot pool for over an hour as the cool rain fell. After sleeping like babies we made our way to Santa Maria, where we loaded into a collectivo to return to Ollantaytambo. 3 1/2 hours through the valley, the first half was a steep climb up and through the pass and the last was a long descent into town. A couple nice days wandering around the cobbles, admiring the ruins from afar. When the rains came we got a chance to see some more of the genius of the incas. The hydro engendering at Ollantaytambo is impressive. Canals, drains, fountains, tunnels and bridges, all solid and secure to this day.
On News years day we hired a taxi take us to 3 more archeological sites on the way back to Cusco. Guame, our driver, was a beauty with a good sense of humour and history. He was part chauffeur and part tour guide. The first stop was la salaneras, the salt flats. Discovered and cultivated by incas, exploited and perfected by the conquistadors, it was quite a sight. From there it was 30 minutes up the dirt road through farmland to Moray. Built in a valley, it was a place of agricultural experimentation. Circular terraces built on about 6 different levels, like a spiral, each with its own micro climate. They planted crops at different levels to see which would produce the highest yield and where. Not bad for a bunch of "savages". Another 35 minutes to Chinchero, the royal kingdom of some Inca king and then a Spanish settlement. Classic inca walls, massive ones, with Spanish churches built on top. It was was a nice day with some history lessons and shifted perception,. We were on our way back to Cusco for what would be a crazy news years celebration in the square.
I can say with no hyperbole that the Plaza de Armas in Cusco, on New Year's Eve, is the most insane and dangerous "celebration" I will ever experience. First, the square is packed, Peruvians come from all over to celebrate here. Second, everyone's drunk or getting drunk and in case you forgot your booze, there are people selling cool ones in the street. Third, and most insane, everyone bring their own fireworks. Then lights them at random, at any time and any direction. Oh, if you left those at home too, no worries, they are for sale in square, of course. 3,2,1 Feliz año Nuevo! The light show in the sky was impressive, the entire panoramic view of Cusco, up to the highest neighbourhood lit up with colour and the sound of traditional live music in the background. Walking through the crowds a few of the girls got pick pocketed but luckily no true valuables were taken from Michelle...just her change purse with a reasonable amount of cash. Considering we made it home unscathed it was good night, and definitely unforgettable.
The first day of the new year began with a trip back into the valley to the town of Pisac. An hour from Cusco, with river running through it, Pisac is relaxed and sits in view of amazing ruins. We stayed at chaska wasi, a nice hostel right along the river with a grassy courtyard, a gazebo and a meditation room. Definitely the most plush place we've stayed in, it even had a bathtub! Five days relaxing, reading and writing in the gazebo and playing with the poquito gatito (little kitty) that lives there. On the last day we went up to see Intihuatana; the ruins, they are incredible! Machu Picchu is the "sexy" choice for any tourist, in my opinion these are equally impressive, with less people and more freedom. The terraces here are massive, wide and long and tall. The entire mountain top has been transformed, all the way down to the river valley, either with terraces, grain storage, military outlooks, houses and steps. We roamed from the top, through tunnels and over bridges before stopping for a most delicious mango with a view over the ruins and mountains. Down the countless steps to a stream that we followed all the way into town. It was a beautiful end to our time in the sacred valley.
That's all for now ... We are in humid Cali Columbia now and will update you on our travels from Cusco to Ecuador and what we are doing here in Cali.
Love you! Miss you too. Xoxo
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