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At Oriente Station after 2 busy and eventful days in Lisboa. The minute the sun came out, our first impressions of the city changed. We had sunny days, yet with a windchill facto of about 12 degrees. Far too cold for this time of year...the locals will tell you. The Europeans generally are saying that this is the longest and coldest winter in living memory. For us ...as long as there is sunshine, sightseeing is great.
Our impression of Lisboa has certainly changed after our first afternoon/evening, where we were less than enthralled. It is definitely a city with many faces - the very old, the delapidated, the narrow, steep roads and tiny tiled houses, the 18th & 19th century palazzo houses (rebuilt after the devastating earthquake of 1755) , the impressive big historic squares with their huge monuments, and then the super modern structures, sculptures and water features which date back to the 1998 Lisbon Expo. The long history of the city dating back to Visigoths and Moorish occupation, have left their mark on the architecture and layout of the city. It is spread over several hills (a bit like Rome) - which keeps one fit as you manoevre around the city up and down the steep cobbled streets. The historic trams are still in operation especially in the very steep and narrow areas, which makes for thrilling rides. It also means that there are many amzing viewpoints from which to get an arial view of the city with its many facets. Again...an interesting placa or largo around e ery corner.
Lisboa may not have the same majestic feel as Madrid, but it has a very definite charm. The era of seafarers and their discoveries, at the time of Henry the Seafarer in the 15th century, which changed the view of the world fundamentally and can be seen as the start of globalisation, has left its mark on this city. Sitting and strolling along the wide Tejo River one is reminded of the courage and adventurous spirit of these time gone by. The river is very wide - at one point spanned by Europe's longest bridge at over 17kms long, and at another point crossed by a 3km replica of the San Francisco Golden Gate Bridge, which has a statue of over 80m high of a look-alike of the Rio de Janeiro Christ the Redeemer Statue, overlooking it. All really gigantic and impressive. As is Belem, on the outskirts of Lisboa, with its historic buildings, galleries and Palaces. This area was least affected by the 1755 earthquake & tsunami, and has therefore many historic buildings on show amongst beautiful squares and gardens. The white,beige and pink marble covered buildings and squares give it all a feeling of serenity. Very different to the Alfama and Barra-Alto districts with their narrow cobbled streets and alleys ...where the multi-coloured tiled houses (some of them extremely old and delapidated) see very little sun.
The only thing that we are a bit confused about is the food. The espitadas and trinchadas and spicy sauce that we are used to as portuguese food could not be found in Lisbon. Perhaps we did not look in the right places...
Also interesting to see the diverse population, showing the years of colonisation - many Mozambicans and Angolans seem to have ,ade Lisbon their home. 25% of the population of Portugal live in the urban sprawl of Lisbons - most in soul-less highrise blocks, that are in need of some serious TLC, with washing lines high on the walls under the windows....the flapping washing lending some much-needed colour to the grey walls.
The political climate relating to the handling of the economic crisis overshadows the city...with posters and slogans to be seen everywhere - public theatre and many empty shops and restaurants.
We didn't really manage to touch sides in 2 days. We got a quick overview ...and liked what we saw , but not enough time to really enjoy and experience the lovely spots...but again, glad that we live where we live !
- comments
Roger and pauline Muy interesante! Its amazing how something as simple as warm sunshine(I know its not all that smple)can change the perspective as to who we are and where we are.We have just had 7 days of cold, wet, miserable weather yet we are dry and warm in our abode.Yet, the difference in our mood swing when the sun came out today? Southern Spain and Portugal are designed for warm, balmy days, and when its not warm and balmy we want to know why! A good read while you are away is the book written by a South African German, or vica versa, about her travels in a Renault van around the world.Its called, a year of bed nights.Could be a sequel to the one Heike Evans is going to write.LOL from a "what is today" a sunny paarl. R and P.
Heike Evans Good to hear from you both ! Had a wonderful Servas experience in Loule on the Algarve. Really wonderful host ! Keep in touch ! Think of you so much here in Spain ...can imagine you living here. Love the environment.