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Purple, heather clad moorland, wide open landscapes, rushing rivers and obscure stone tors shape the landscape of Dartmoor. There are rolling valleys, bogs and wetland, waterfalls and well-trodden paths, ancient, eerie forests and lonely ruins. Sounds amazing, doesn't it? What did we see? Nothing.
After breakfast, more chats with Peter, his wife Tessa, and the other guest, a tour of the artist's studio (the B&B is also an art school and I think Peter was showing us a slightly less taxing hobby for our later years) and analysing the weather in some detail, we decided that we couldn't put it off any longer and set off into the rain. Thankfully, we were warned of the steep descent to the river Tamar which divides Cornwall and Devon (or England, as the Cornish will tell you). With so much water on the road and brakes not used to functioning with so much weight, it was hairy to say the least. After the cycling unfriendly Tavistock, we engaged our granny gear and made our way up to Dartmoor.
Ahead of us lay 20km of rolling climbing, sometimes steep but usually not, along a well tarmacked road. I'd love to tell you more, but also ahead of us lay 20 metres of visibility… and rain. Soaked through, we crossed Dartmoor and with nothing to see, made quite good progress. We stopped for lunch in Moretonhampstead, where we had about 2 litres of tea, hot food and topped it off with amazingly delicious warm Dartmoor apple cake with clotted cream that you almost needed a knife to cut. I felt quite bad about the puddles we left behind.
After lunch, the visibility improved and rain started to ease in time for a stunning descent along a wooded winding road, through a pretty village called Dunsford… scenery at last! Unfortunately, we turned off the lovely road onto a little single track which seemed to take us over the cliffs of Devon… a series of super-steep hills. Usually, I approach a hill telling myself that it's never as bad as it looks… today, I discovered that when it is as bad as it looks (a never ending 25% or more), you get off and walk. I even had to take a breather pushing my bike up… it was that steep!
It finally stopped raining and the cliffs made way for beautiful Devonshire countryside with rolling hills and red fields. We stopped in Crediton to take a look at the Collegiate Church of the Holy Cross whose history goes back to the 10th Century. From the outside, the red bricks are a pretty contrast to the grounds which surround it. Inside, is magical with high ceilings and beautiful stained glass. I had the whole place to myself and it was blissfully peaceful.
Today's journey ended in Bickleigh, a pretty village on the river Exe. We hung our wet clothes to dry, cleaned the mud off our bikes and went for a walk to Bickleigh castle - a pretty building, which is now used as a wedding venue. Our accommodation for the night is a pub right on the river, next to Bickleigh Bridge with water gushing down a small waterfall. Not a bad place to have dinner.
Tomorrow… Bristol!
Todays Stats
Distance: 88km / 54 miles
Elevation: 1169m
Andy's breakfast: 8.5/10 (and what a feast it was, with 10 items including white pudding and baked beans. A clear winner so far!)
Garmin route: http://connect.garmin.com/activity/195027819
- comments
Nic Moretonhampstead! Not far from my hood at all. Sorry the Devonian weather was so unfriendly though, I feel slightly inhospitable on its behalf. :(
tamsin booth Thanks for the updates - was thinking of you as I looked out of my window into the greyness & wetness - still - better than a day at the office & all looks beautiful despite the weather! Looking forward to the next blog! Txx
Penny Miserable! Told you we should have kept our bin linners! Keep pushing on :) x