Hi everyone, I'm writing to you now from Ko Phi Phi island (more on Phi Phi next blog) to fill you in on our adventures in the Krabi area of the Andaman Coast, South West Thailand...

After arriving into Krabi at 6am after a jolty overnight bus from Bangkok, we took the advice of other travellers (that there is little to do in Krabi town proper) and hopped on a van to the nearby beach town of Ao Nang. We booked into PK, a friendly, spacious guesthouse about 100m from the sea, and ventured out to explore the place. The majority of our first day in Ao Nang was spent discovering the immediate coastline. The town beach itself was a pleasant, long stretch marred only by the incessantly jolly pestering of numerous masseurs whose 'parlours' were located on the beachfront - all fairly legit as far as we could see! After the fourth or fifth attempts from the same eager women, it got a little wearing though.
Venturing either side of this beach, we found two very different spectacles. To the north was a massive sandy expanse that backed onto numerous restauratns and bars, but South was a stunning small cove called Ao Phra Phlong whose use was designated for the occupants of its sole luxury resort only. Phra Phlong not being in plain sight of the the town beach, and us having not initially known it was a resort beach, we were slightly miffed to make the steep semi-jungle trek around the headland and down to it, only to be greeted by beach hut security (sign in on arrival!) and have our (short) stay on its sands timed by stopwatch. Strictly no swimming, of course.

For the first time, we were also able to get a sense of the history of the places we were visiting, which in some cases was very recent. Tsunami 'Evacuation Route' signs were everywhere in Ao Nang and the surrounding area. Interestingly, when browsing a Lonely Planet description of the area, I found a description of a beautiful, undeveloped cove close to Ao Nang currently under threat of tourist development. Checking the publication of the book (2001), I quickly realised that this cove now homes the very same resort described above.

The next two days were spent exploring the gorgeous Rai Lay area with its stark limestone cliffs and picture perfect beaches. First, we had planned to spend just one day at Rai Lay, catching a longtail boat over and back from Ao Nang. We arrived to West Hat Rai Lay ('Hat' means beach) which was a lovely beach itself and we wiled away a very lazy half-day there quite happily. It was only when we ventured inland across the thin stretch of land to East Hat Rai Lay, that we chanced upon a helpful Canadian named Volchok (we think?!?) who redirected to Phra Nang (pronounced Panang, a beach he described as far superior). His route led us on a twisting path that passed East Rai Lay beach (good job we ended up skipping here, it was little more than mudflats at low tide) and along the side of a huge rock cliff and then finally, around onto a truly beautiful beach. Literally postcard ready - I hope our pictures do it justice.

Returning to Ao Nang that evening, we decided to return to Rai Lay (and Phra Nang) the following day - partly because a number of the chatty Canadians at Rai Lay had informed us of an enclosed saltwater lagoon which could be reached by a steep climb up and over the beach cliffs next to Phra Nang. Thus we returned the following day and I, along with British couple Becca (hairdresser from Jersey) and Francois (London born/came to Thailand to learn Thai boxing/indeterminate occupation) headed for the lagoon. Emma and Sarah trekked up to a viewpoint which overlooked all of Rai Lay and made for some great snaps. After a tough climb through jungle and slippery clay rock, me and Becca made it down to the lagoon (Francois bailed. Cause: dehydration induced by gin-related hangover). What can I say? I know I'm running out of superlatives, but again...stunning. I just floated around looking skyward to the gaping hole at the top, a sight I would liken to looking out the top of a volcano from the inside. The highlight of the trip so far!

The rest of the day was spent lounging around Phra Nang - chilling on the beach, a bit of gentle exploring, followed by cooling dips in the heated-pool temperature sea - in a fashion typical of our three day stay in Krabi province. A slightly more energetic Emma could be found cliff diving with foreigners at the far end of the bay! We has also noticed a change in ourselves, and not just in our burgeoning tans. After the madness of Bangkok, the comfortable air emitted by Ao Nang (in part due to the abundance of pricy resorts and their well-heeled Scandinavian guests) was a welcome change. We left Ao Nang, looking forward to a similar existence on the island of Ko Phi Phi, where the biggest Travelling Dilemma we would face was what day we would carry out a snorkelling trip - am I making you jeaous yet?