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I can't believe we've been here for a month already. At the time of writing this I was in Paraty sat on a sofa overlooking the sea, it was raining and I was sharing the sofa with a huge dog (who didn't smell too great).
From our hostel in Rio the last time I wrote, we were heading to Ilha Grande with four others from our hostel. We all got a transfer together there and picked up five others from various other hostels in Rio which managed to take 2 hours. It was fine though as one of the girls had an ipos so we plugged that in and I was Dj Green for the journey. We had a good singalong to all sorts of stuff and got to Angra for the ferry in no time. It took about an hour to get to Ihla Grande from there and the ferry dropped us off right outside the hostel, which was literally on the beach - not bad for a tenner a night!
The island itself is stunning and has an interesting past. It was originally a pirates lair, then a leprosy colony, and then had 2 prisons which were originally for the most dangerous criminals in Brazil. As a result the island has been late to develop and hasn't been spoilt meaning that the mata atlantiqua (forest to me and you) is incredible here and hasn't been destroyed as it has in most other parts of Brazil (only 7% now remains).
There are two joint hostels next to each other and we went over to the other one that night for a bbq. There were loads of people there and it turned into a mammoth party. The girls and guys we met on the coach were there and they were sucha good group of people but can definitely drink! Three of them were Irish, there was a girl from Essex and one from Whitby (we actually met some guys in another hostel who had met the "3 crazy girls" in another hostel in Buenos Aires!) They had the whole party playing this horse racing drinking game with a pack of cards and it was such a good night.
The next day feeling slightly fragile we decided to take it easy and got the boat to one of Ilha Grande's 102 beaches called Lopez Mendes. It is considered as the most beautiful beach in Brazil and I can definitely see why. You have to trek over to it as there are no boats that can take you directly there. The surf is apparently really good there too. In the evening we took it easy and watched Brazil versus Bolivia on the telly.
Next day Kate and I decided to go on a trek and picked the supposedly longest and most difficult one. I set off fully prepared with a first aid kit and fleece in case we got stranded and I got a lot of stick for it. We headed off and got chatting to a guy in town who drew us a map with 2 shortcuts and his famous last words were, "it's easy and you won't get lost…" Half an hour later and after walking up a hill, down then up again and realizing we had gone in a circle passing the same workmen, they pointed us in the right direction. The shortcut, well it was definitely a shorter path but it was vertical and so so hot it probably took just as long as the more gently windy track up. As I struggled to the top, Kate had already powered up there. I half expected to find her doing start jumps whilst waiting for me -she's so fit its ridiculous! It was a lot easier after that and we hardly saw anyone. In fact nature called for Kate at one point and she thought she'd be safe to stop without anyone seeing her. Just as she was about to go a 4x4 with a group of guys in the back appeared out of nowhere, which was even funnier considering the only vehicles allowed on the island are a few official ones, an ambulance, fire engine and garbae truck!
The trek took 2 and a half hours there and we went past the old prison ruins on the way there. The prison was blown up by the govt in 2004 and it was weird looking round what was left as there was nobody around and there were still the equivalent of pg 3 pin ups on the walls. We then wandered on the beach which was practically empty and chilled out there for a bit. As a rule I don't go in the sea as I'm a bit scared but here it was like walking on carpet and so warm and clear that I made an exception.
We trekked the same distance back and went to a fish restaurant Lonely Planet had recommended. I can honestly say it was the best fish I've ever had but I have no clue what it was but it must have been one big fish. We then headed back and met the others at our hostel. Kate had quite a few drinks and we were all sniggering like school kids as she thought the bell in the bar meant for when the bar staff received a tip, was for last orders. Every time it rang she'd jump up and go and buy herself another 2 drinks to last her. After 3 times it still hadn't clicked with her and she'd passed out by the time I went to bed and I had to push her back on to her bunk as she was dangerously close to falling off.
Next morning we decided to do another boat trip this time to the blue lagoon. We bought our ticket and were running a bit late (us?! Never!) and we got there to see the boat sailing off. They saw us though and reversed the boat back to come and get us. There were about 50 people already on board who didn't look too pleased -how embarrassing. The blue lagoon was amazing and the waters were well erm so clear. There were loads of fish that must be verging on obese now as every boat to visit the lagoon throws coconut for them and they all rush after it. Not their fault I suppose since they've got such a short memory. We stopped at a little white church and then went for lunch. Next morning we got up early and caught the 9.30am ferry back to Angra. Weather had been amazing up until then but rained all day so the perfect day to travel to Paraty.
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