Arrived in Delhi this lunchtime, having had a very up and down time in Agra. I got the train amidst the usual chaos from Jaipur to Agra and arrived at my hostel at 10.45pm feeling tired. The place didnt look promising straight away, scruffy and unhelpful staff and some people looking non-too-happy sitting outside there rooms. I was taken to my room, more of a cell really and was greeted with a dirty and tiny bathroom which was dirty with cobwebs and a big spider, dead mosquitoes on the bed, no hot water, no sheets, no soap, howling dog, cockroaches about and the hardest bed in the world not to mention live mosquitoes. I got a mosquito net up and used my own liner sheet and made it through a horrible night. At the crack of dawn I got cycle rickshaw and booked into a 5* Ashok, a bit above budget but in need and paid my bill and escaped the Rest House. God I was glad to be out of there! I dont want posh hotels but that place was just too bad to beleive. After breakfast I went to the Taj Mahal which is everything and more that people say it is, just amazing, and sat by the hotel pool in the afternoon. Had a beer with a Mother and Daughter from York then got the train (with slightly less hassle than usual) over to Delhi this morning. Thought for a nasty second that the taxi driver had legged it with my backpack when we stopped off so I could book a tour, but thankfully he had to park elsewher to avoid a fine. Thanks for the messages and emails everyone, its great to hear from you all.