The 'Pacific Coast Highway' -The route 1 experience!

Bed Count = 21/22/23

Following my last lengthy instalment, I am following up with another quick blog to continue to bring things back up- to-date.For those who are not quick enough and missed the last one, fear not as the Sonoma/San Fran blog can be found in the archives…so check that one out first before you get ahead of the game!!I'm writing this instalment from my tropical paradise, whilst gazing at the turquoise sea that surrounds a small remote Fijian Island called 'Beachcomber'.Last night we danced the night away and I had a slight over indulgence of a local delicacy they call 'Fijian rum'!However, I'll save the highs and lows of our Fijian adventure until later on, as quite a bit happened between now and then!

Last time out, I described how emotionally distraught we were to leave beautiful San Francisco!Joking aside, we were looking forward to moving on, but first of all I had the usual fiasco of picking up the hire car.However before this point, my previous day's work had involved spending over an hour queuing aimlessly for rental quotations from every company lining the O'Farrell Street.One thing I learnt quickly is that you don't have to pay the full list price here! If you're stubborn enough to endure some less than adequate customer service, then your rewards may be sweet.All these companies are aggressively competing against each other and prices may drop in an instant if you have the audacity to pull out a competing quotation and force some haggling.It soon became evident to me that they had underestimated my determination for a bargain and at the end I left triumphant with a 'managers special rate'!The only downside was that the quotation was scribbled on a rather scruffy piece of paper….sometimes things aren't worth the paper they are written on!So when I turned up bright and early the next day and the electronic system had absolutely no knowledge of my mere existence, it was somewhat expected.Now, similar to how the service assistant the previous day had underestimated my bargaining determination, they also underestimated my tolerance threshold for such mishaps.Therefore ten minutes later, following a bit of straight talking Yorkshire lip, I exited the building with my pride intact and a free upgrade to a 3.5 Litre Dodge Charger!When I pulled my new found chariot up at the hostel, it's fair to say that Melissa was somewhat confused.Previously, I had departed to pick up a budget compact car and somehow reappeared as an unscheduled guest in an episode of 'pimp my ride'!Unfortunately, any hope of normal fuel consumption had been left at the rental depot, but positively there was ample space for the countless bottles of wine we acquired in Sonoma!With a quick shift into drive and a manly growl of the engine, we were on the road again, 'pimpin' our way to Highway 1.Before we hit the highway, it was my turn to utterly confuse the Sat Nav lady by taking an alternative route through the comically named suburb of 'Nob Hill'.Coincidently to the name, the roads are very steep (almost erect!) here and you do require some 'balls' to take them on!Apart from childishly chuckling at the surrounding street names, there was a hidden agenda for our detour.We were on our way to the famous 'Lombard Street' - this was after unsuccessfully catching the ridiculously busy tram system the day before.I don't know how this street came about, but it's pretty impressive!Check out the pictures, but it's a super steep and winding road nestled amongst some picture postcard houses and gardens.I believe it has been the set for a few films, including a car chase sequence in Clint Eastwoods crime drama, Magnum Force. As per the film, you do need a small nimble car to take on the very tight turns and after struggling to walk up it, we decided that the chunky Dodge Charger was not the sensible choice for the gradient.However in a bizarre twist of events, I had a 'you only live once moment' and navigated the twisty street, whilst nearly mowing down a few innocent bystanders in the process.I can tell you that maximum concentration is required to drive this road, as there is little room for an emergency three point turn here!Melissa did her part to keep me focussed by taking as many pictures as feasibly possible, along with two videos and some active commentary in parts!With the 'bendy road endurance module' now complete on my advanced drivers test, we reverted back onto regular roads for our next leg.

Our grand plan was to drive the length of the beachside-hugging Highway 1 from San Francisco to San Diego.Whilst feasible in a single journey, we had planned a more leisurely drive including several stop overs to break up the trip.Our first town stopover would be at the sought after artist's retreat town of Carmel.Following my fair share of city and freeway driving, this route was definitely a 'breath of fresh air' and the scenery was absolutely stunning.We stopped quite a number of times along the way, but we could have stopped more, as each corner gave way to a slightly different view of the rolling cliffs, sandy beaches and dark blue sea.We had thought long and hard about hiring a camper van for this leg of the trip, but due to the cost implications we'd eventually decided against it.In retrospect this was probably a good decision, as the roads can be quite narrow and challenging at times!It was hard enough with a slightly oversized car, never mind a 20 ft Winnebago!Despite several stop offs we made good time to Carmel and checked into our pre-booked accommodation at a little cottage called 'Le'Petite Papillion'.I will summarise our stay here very quickly….everything was perfect!We knew from the photos, reviews and initial dialogue with the owners (David and Brenda) that this was going to be a special place and we were certainly right!Upon arrival we had a bottle of locally sourced pinot noir waiting, alongside some freshly ground coffee.It's all the little touches that make you feel really special and it goes beyond a general stay in a hotel.Whether it was the chocolates on our bed, personal notes waiting at the door or the fact that two candles were lit in our private courtyard area each evening, it's fair to say that David and Brenda really made the effort here!The house was perfect for our romantic stay and we absolutely loved Carmel.The first night ended with a glass of the pinot noir in hand and a few drunken shots (of the photo type!) near an obscenely large pumpkin that happened to be in the garden!

We spent the next day relaxing and strolling round the picturesque town of Carmel.I can't remember the exact population of this place, but I do know that about two thirds of the properties are second homes for those with more money than sense! Ok I admit it, I'm just jealous, but due to this fact the place can be very quiet during the low season.This made a welcome break from the frantic hustle and bustle of San Francisco and we actually felt safe walking around the streets, which was a bonus!We checked out a few shops, grabbed a spot of lunch and had a quick stroll on the quaint little beach.After this we drove over to the nearby area of Carmel Valley for a spot of wine tasting!From the last instalment in Sonoma, some people may have good reason to think that we have turned into minor alcoholics!However we had good reason for this visit, as amongst other things, David and Brenda had left us some free wine tasting vouchers in the room - well it would be rude not to put them to good use right?!We visited the Talbott winery first, as we had sampled a bottle of their pinot noir the day before - and very much enjoyed it!The same order of events ensued (as per all other winery visits) and we departed with a merry wife along with a bottle of wine!It turns out that the owner of the vineyard comes from a linage of well renowned tailors, who seem to specialise in ties.It also so happened, that they had a discount outlet store right next to the tasting room, so we made an impromptu stop in there.After rifling through the hundreds of ties, Melissa proclaimed that I would look more of a respectable gentleman following the mandatory purchase of a snazzy new neck piece, so watch out for that one at the weddings when we return!!Melissa's Dad also got a treat and his new tie was promptly posted to ensure that he started to look the part as soon as possible!After this, we had time to make a quick stop off at the 'Morgan' tasting rooms for yet another free sampling session.This just about polished Melissa off and I'm not sure she can remember the fundamental basis for some of the most random questions asked to the poor service assistant towards the end of the session!Homeward bound, we picked up some tasty treats from the local market shop and ate well that night in our comfy retreat.We had only scheduled two night's stay in Carmel, but we loved the area so much we actually extended our stay by an extra night.This allowed us to visit the nearby town of Monterey along with the aquarium that is relatively famous in the area.This was really good fun and we made it in just in time for the 'open sea feeding session'.The 'open sea' is a super-sized tank that holds loads of ocean dwelling fish, sea turtles and not to mention the odd shark!After this viewing, we made a whistle stop tour round the rest of the vicinity and a few highlights included the jelly fish and sea horse exhibition.We also spotted some sea otters cracking mussels in the open water next to the aquarium - those guys seem to have a lot of fun!After this we made time for some fish chowder at the fisherman's wharf area and actually had it served within a carved out bread bowl…I would recommend this unless you're near any hungry seagulls!On our walk back we had a near miss with a low flying Pelican and somehow managed to avoid ending up in its huge mouth!!After this excitement we returned back to Carmel to enjoy the town area for one last time.I found a coffee shop (to write the blog) and Melissa went shopping…that's just how we roll on this trip!!After just over an hours 'window shopping' Melissa returned without any bags…this is unusual behaviour….but did have an action plan for a pedicure treatment.The plan would involve us walking to the salon, for me to continue the walk back home and then patiently await further instructions via a text message.Following the message, I initiated my taxi responsibilities and moments later pulled up outside to the sight of a happy wife performing a circus walk in the feeble disposable shoes they seem to give out at such establishments!Our last night finished the same as the others, with a glass of vino in one hand, some relaxing music and lots of content smiles all round.

We departed relatively early the next day, as our continuing leg of the 'highway 1 experience' was to be littered with stop overs.After leaving Carmel, we enjoyed more aesthetically pleasing views and a few photo stops before arriving at the 'Big Sur' area.It's not long before you edge away from the coast and into towering redwoods that tower above the lush green under growth.This National Park area is called 'the Big Sur' and we had been told that it was a great place to stop for a hike.Once again we were reliant on the Sat Nav system, which in fairness got us within the five mile proximity; however it was not obvious where the main entrance resided.We took a lucky guess, parked up and picked up a guide map to study further.Whilst taking a leisurely drive initially, we now found ourselves up against the clock as we had some pre-booked tickets at 2pm at our next destination.Following a quick conversation we chose our hike…a 'short' trek up the hill to a viewing point….up and down in 45 minutes in time for lunch!The walk started well, as the forest scenery opened up allowing the dappling sunshine to light the pine needled floor ahead of us.However, after an amble up a shallow gradient the hill started to become more vertically challenging.With a quick eye at the map, the contours suggested we were on track, but the bad news was that it looked like the biggest climb was yet to come!Now at this point I should add that along with insects, a hill is Melissa's biggest nemesis.We had a make or break situation half way up and we discussed the pros and cons of continuing upwards.Then Melissa remembered that she had purchased a vegetarian burrito earlier in the morning and this could be consumed if we reached the summit!Following this incentive, someone substituted my wife with a professional hill runner as she shot up the incline with some serious drive and determination!After a few false alarms we finally reached the top, only to be faced with the disappointment of a single bench occupied by a large group of chatty Indian folk sipping their morning coffee?!There was no time for chit-chat as lunch was our highest priority and after a quick photo we were running back down the hill at the same pace we had come up.Finally we made it half way down to stumble upon another bench where we could take refuge from the midday heat.Immediately the burrito was unwrapped and consumed aggressively, but there were a few troubling issues after the first mouthful.Firstly there were a lot of flies which served as a minor annoyance, but more importantly Melissa was not enjoying her burrito….someone call 911…we have an emergency lunch situation at the Big Sur hillside!!! The offer of my sandwich did little to dent the disappointment, so soon after we were back on our decent.Aswe reached the bottom, we both remembered a little café situated near the car park…maybe a little sweetness would appease the diabolical situation?!Upon entry, our eyes were locked at the same highlight on the board…ice cream!Not Ben and Jerry's, but a cookie dough equivalent nevertheless!I returned to the car in order to set up the route for our onward travel and left Melissa with the simple task of purchasing a small amount of her favourite treat.We had discussed that the 'one scoop' option would be more than ample, but I should know by now that I am deluded to think that this agreement would ever be followed through…..therefore, it came as no real shock when Melissa retuned with over a litre of her frozen dessert and subsequently tried to convince me that this was still the 'one scoop' option.Apparently, as the legend goes, the serving assistant took pity on her and gave her 'a little extra for no extra cost'…ah well, we had some ice cream and a happy wife!Following this we made haste to our next destination point - Hearst Castle.We had many tips that we should pre-book this tour ahead of time (it's a bit of tourist trap).The only negative, is that after we hit a multitude of road works en-route we ended up rushing this section of the trip.However, the sight of the castle on the hillside was impressive and we knew that the tour to the top would be worthwhile.Hearst Castle is located on the hillside near the small village of San Simeon and was subsequently referred to as 'the ranch at San Simeon'.It has been a working cattle ranch since 1865 and this tradition is continued to the day.However the jewel in the landscape is the castle created by William Randolph Hearst and the architect he hired, Julia Morgan.The Mediterranean style castle was created over a staggering twenty-eight years and there are areas that still remain unfinished.The areas that were finished include the 'Casa Grande' (containing no less than 115 rooms!), a roman pool and impressive main terrace with majestic views out to the Pacific Ocean.Check out our pictures to get a real feel for this place, but it is definitely worth a visit to witness its grandeur and the superlative views from the balcony.

After the visit we continued our journey to our overnight stop at 'The Madonna Inn' at San Luis Obispo.Following a conversation with John and June, we had been told that this hotel was an 'interesting' place to stop!Upon arrival we could see why, it looked like a fairytale castle!!I haven't got the full history to hand on this one, but I do know that the place was created by an eccentric couple with a clear passion for interior design!Each room is totally unique and decorated over-elaborately!It's not uncommon to stay in a cave with a waterfall shower!For the first time on our trip, the lady behind the check-in desk took pity on us and offered a free upgrade to the 'Hearts and Flowers' suite!Again, check out our pictures on this one, but we also had our own rock shower!The only negative was that whilst the rocks look like they could be replicas, after Melissa stubbed her toe her cries suggested otherwise!Despite one ruined pedicure, we still enjoyed a nice meal at the local restaurant - even if we had to send the food back once!

After a hearty breakfast the next day, we hit the road again, bound for Santa Monica.We made time to stop into the picturesque town of Santa Barbara along the way for a spot of lunch and shopping.It's fair to say, that we both really liked this place and the white buildings almost had a European feel.In hindsight we would have loved to have stopped there for a night or two, but let that be a secret tip for those currently considering it!After this we were back on the road to Santa Monica and tried to find Malibu beach to catch the sunset.We caught neither the sunset nor indeed the beach - adequate signposting needs some serious work over here!Under darkness we arrived at another pre-booked vacation rental situated in the suburbs between Venice Beach and Santa Monica.

The next day we decided to walk down to Venice Beach to catch the 'sights' over there!Our first mistake was reading the map directions incorrectly in that the 'five minute' duration to the beach was either in a car or super jet…not walking!!Forty-five minutes later we hit the beach and the vast number of street sellers that line the pavement.It's all very 'hippy', with the odd freak show thrown in for full effect, but it's also busy as hell and wasn't massively enjoyable…maybe we just weren't in the right frame of mind?!Unperturbed we continued our walking marathon to Santa Monica beach front, witnessing an eighty year old woman roller blading half naked down the promenade!Tired and visually disturbed, we found the main third street and after some window shopping enjoyed a well-deserved cup of coffee accompanied with a Danish pastry!After little discussion we decided we would grab a cab home and enjoyed our lazy second evening in the snug cottage.When we consulted the map later on, we worked out that we had walked about six to eight miles that day and agreed it would help if google maps were actually to scale!!

The next day, we returned to our chariot to continue the quest for overnight accommodation.The next leg of the journey involved some testing navigation skills whilst trying to stay on Highway 1 and in some ways I wish we hadn't bothered.The drive along this stretch is a far cry from the coastal beauty of the other legs, but rather an endurance stretch through numerous traffic jams.This area of Los Angeles isn't that nice either and to be honest it was quite sole destroying at times.However, we finally broke out of the ghetto and moved into the more upmarket Orange County (OC) and Huntington Beach area.Despite some resilient sea mist we decided to pull into Huntington Beach for a picnic lunch.As the sea mist lifted, so did our spirits and we enjoyed the view of miles of pristine sandy beach.During lunch we enjoyed the skating tricks of some young boarding upstarts with dodgy gloves and bad attempts at facial hair….if you can't grow it, just don't bother!After this we continued onto San Diego and checked into our hostel room in the 'Gaslamp' quarter.After dropping the car back at the airport and catching a taxi back, we settled into our basic yet clean double room for the night.

I'm going to stop this blog here and follow up with another few in quick succession to bring things back up to date.For those interested, we are currently checking out of our island accommodation in Fiji and will have another 6 nights on the mainland.Then, in early December we will fly to Brisbane (Australia) to continue our journey for the next few months….lots more to come!