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Hello again
Well, here we are in Mongolia, which isn't something you get to say very often... It's been quite a journey so far!
We finished off our stay in Moscow with a more in-depth look at the cathedrals and state buildings of the Kremlin, a visit to the former KGB headquarters and a walk along the bridge where Boris Nemtsov was shot, which is covered in thousands of flowers and candles. We also spent some time renaming the Cyrillic-written metro stations into things our pitiful English brains could understand, like ASBO, knickerbocker, tea tree, hobo and pocket imp. Oh what fun we had!
It was quite an interesting day to be in Moscow as there were pro-Russia rallies taking place to celebrate one year since Crimea rejoined. Red square was packed with flag-waving supporters, being closely watched by armed police, the army and overhead helicopters.
That night we boarded our train and began our five night journey across the trans-Siberian railway and into Mongolia. For some reason, when our train tickets were delivered to our hotel, we had been given first class instead of the second we paid for. So we said nothing (of course) and enjoyed a cabin to ourselves for the duration of our trip
The scenery has been wonderful. The city views soon gave way to more remote towns, littered with wooden bungalows (with satellite dishes!) and miles upon miles of birch trees. As we moved into Siberia and the massive expanse of the 400 mile wide Lake Baikal we were treated to some of the best views so far. The lake, still covered in ice so solid that cars were driving on it, was also covered in a layer of snow and stretched out into the distance as far as the eye could see. It really fit with the picture you have of Siberia in your head before you actually see it!
The train itself was pretty comfortable and provided a constant flow of boiling water which we needed to live off four days worth of packet noodles and soup! On board entertainment consisted of kindles, card games and Siberian vodka! One of the first things we noticed when we boarded is that, despite claims to the contrary, there is no form of shower on the train. On discovering this, we optimistically proclaimed that "it'll be fine! We'll use wipes and wash over the sink!". What we've learned after departing the train five nights later, greasy-haired and pungent, is that there is only so much wipes can do and trying to have a standing wash on a moving train ain't that easy!
After dispensing with the three hour long border formalities, we arrived in the capital Ulaanbaator to -10° temperatures and were taken to a hotel for a much needed shower. Especially since someone (coughBriancough) was still wearing the same undies as when we arrived in Moscow a week earlier!
We took a walking tour, but to be perfectly honest, the city wasn't that nice. There really isn't much to see culturally (even our lovely Mongolian guide, Enke, said there's nothing here!) and other than that it's just dirty and expensive! We did see some Buddhist monks chanting in their temple and a rather large square but that's about it! We were pleased when it was time to take our 40 mile trip out of the city to stay in our traditional Mongolian Gers. On the way, we stopped off at a 30 metre tall statue of Genghis Khan which you can climb up for views over the...endless sand dunes and grasslands.
After that, we arrived at our camp. There were around 10 gers...All empty apart from ours and one other (it's the off season!). Once we got settled in, it was time for dinner, and we quickly realised that the chef was a "feeder", with course after course of traditional Mongol food being served alongside traditional tea. Next day, we were greeted with a 3 course breakfast consisting of (among other things) mutton soup and omelette before heading on a trek of the nearby hills to view nomad settlements and the surrounding mountains. In the afternoon we were due to go horse riding with a local nomad (except he somehow managed to lose all his horses) so we just chilled instead (we were quite full from another huge lunch anyway-lucky escape for the horses!) before a rather huge bbq in the evening. Bbq basically consisted of being handed a cooked sheep's leg and a knife to scrape the meat off with!
Today, we headed back to the capital to clean up and stock up for our next train ride to Beijing, which leaves tomorrow morning. China here we come!
- comments
Sandra Douglas Hello drifters sounds like you're having a fabulous time. Bet you've never been happier to see a shower and some proper food! Moscow seems to have been good plenty to do, see and learn about. The train journey gave you a good look at the area outside the city and through the country - you describe some amazing views. Lake baikal sounds amazing, huge and can't imagine actually driving on a ice covered lake. Sounds very cold tho. Mongolia doesn't sound so good (the city anyway) but you certainly sound like you filled up on food! A sheeps leg - Blimey! ! How does a horse riding place lose all their horses! Well you'll be back on a train to Beijing now. I'm imagining that will be very different - your adventure is certainly taking you to very diverse places - a great experience, wonderful memories. Hope your train journey goes well and you arrive at the other end safe and well - if not smelly! Keep the blogs coming - love reading them. Love to you both.
Sharon Maral Thank you for cheering me up on a wet and dreary Thursday in County Hall! A sheep's leg sounds right up Chris' street, although he might have a hard sell on his hands with Rachel! It all sounds amazing and I am hugely jealous. Is it a little worrying that Siberian vodka sounds enticing at 7:30 in the morning? Keep em coming as I need to live vicariously through someone!
Lou Sounds great guys, I'm truly jealous of your adventure, particularly the siberian express journey. You know I love trains, but trains and vodka sounds a particularly good combination- and no need to wash... perfect! Well, enjoy China, and safe travels. It's great reading your blogs so keep 'em coming! ps. not sure crimea rejoined so much as was 'unlawfully annexed'!