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5) I was so angry in the morning. It just didn't make sense to go to Olympia. No one could give me any information on how to get to Delphi from there, my bus ride would be six to seven hours, and I couldn't seem to find appropriate accomodation for one. Off I went to Delphi - a three hour ride from Athens for €15. I enjoyed seeing the countryside. There are all these little shrine looking house things with a cross on them occasionally on the side of the road. A local later informed me they were there to give thanks for a positive accident outcome or because there was a death - drivers are kinda crazy here. A candle is lit in them all the time. I passed a number of cotton fields and a couple of really rough looking towns - you can definitely see the effect of the crisis in those parts. I saw rows and rows of flat topped, boxy tin houses. It was really sad.
I met the loveliest couple from Ohio on the bus. The husband's family originated from a small village next to Delphi. When he was visiting at the age of twenty-one, he spotted Yana (wife) at the only bus stop and told his uncle he was going to marry her in a month. He pursued her and married her a month later...and took her to Ohio. Twenty-eight years later they are still completely in love, and he swears she is even more beautiful than they day he spotted her. These things do happen, girls! They gave me all of their contact information, her mom's house number and names of people in town in case I had an issue.
Coming into the mountains, the scenery was breathtaking! Delphi, population 1000, is a village nestled up in the mountains, home of the oldest civilization, and "navel of the world". I loved it before the bus even pulled up. It overlooks a valley filled with olive trees leading to a smaller town in the distance right on the sea port.
I dropped my bag off in my single room - really nice with TV, A/C, private bathroom, balcony and sheets. I walked a few hundred meters up the road to go to the ruins. Pretty spectacular. My favorites were Apollo's temple, the theatre and stadium. So many intricacies; much history and myth it's mind-blowing! My only downside: broke my camera in Santorini, so all pictures go on my phone - not nearly as clear, creative nor as many! :(
On my way back, I met some locals and was given a scooter-ride tour of Delphi along with the best souvlaki in town (did I mention I now like tomatoes?) and had some homemade dessert at the house of Lucas and Katrina! It was awesome. I love the small-town feel. People are so friendly and helpful!
6) In the morning I went to the archaeological museum (small but amazing!) before catching my 10:15 bus. I decided to have a go at making it to Meteora. Most people do organized tours because it's too intimidating to get to Delphi, Olympia and Meteora. Me? Well, I'm too cheap and I live for the thrill of adventure! It's really how you decide to perceive things - I could be mad it is taking me an entire day of travel to reach a place that would only be a three hour drive...OR I can have a good attitude and embrace the adventure of seeing the countryside and meeting people along the way. I usually choose the second :) . I met Greg and Kathy, a lovely couple from the Sunshine Coast in Oz. They are in their sixties and are world travellers. Every year they backpack for a few months and have amazing stories - from riding on train tops in Nepal to burning flesh villages in India, getting bitten by dogs in Vietnam, tackling criminals in South America, hot air ballooning in Turkey, delibeand diving in Singapore and the Phillipines. It was neat to hear about the good 'ol days of backpacking when there wasn't Internet, Lonely Planet, Trip Advisor, Rick Steeves, or air conditioned trains. Simply amazing, positive couple. We took care of each other and met Nalwenn from Brittany, France, who joined our group. We were all headed to the same place. We made changes in Amfissia, Lamina, Trikala, finally making it to Kalampaka, the village below Meteora's iconic Byzantine Monasteries six hours and only €20 later! The scenery and landscape was gorgeous - winding through the mountains, occasionally catching glimpses of the sea. I want to come back and road trip: Olympia, Delphi and Meteora, making sure to stay in the little towns. I makes me kind of mad; everyone comes on the tour buses, piles off, see the ruins and pile back on, giving no money to the small town.
I hadn't booked accomodation , as I could only find rooms for €40-€60 online. None of them had either. Nalwenn and I followed the seasoned travellers - we went to a hotel; I watched as Greg and Kathy said we would pay €30 a room per night, and although breakfast wasn't normally included, they bargained that in too! Sweet! Nalwenn and I shared a room, paying only €15 each: A/C, TV, breaky, private bathroom and best of all...a balcony facing splendid Meteora!
We all went for supper, retiring early, exhausted from a day of travel and ready to hike in the morning!
7) The four of us shared breakfast, bought fruit from the Friday Farmer's Market (I got fresh figs) and caught a bus to the top of Meteora. Absolutely breathtaking. It blows my mind how these monasteries were even able to be built. The only way to access the tops of the cliffs was via rope. I find it kinda funny to picture the monks climbing up with ropes in their dresses! I'm sure they would find it insulting I called their sacred habits a dress. The buildings themselves were absolutely beautiful with much detail. I loved looking at the frescos in the chapels. They are...unique. You also notice the eyes in many painted figures are scratched out (except Jesus) from when the Turkish ruled - they believe the eyes are the windows to the soul and should not be painted. I could stop 'wowing' over these amazing places of worship suspended on the tops of cliffs. And the determination/strenuous hard work it would have taken to build them...
There used to be twenty monasteries before WWII. Nine remain. We went to five, entering four (€2 each to enter), including the one in James Bonds' "For Your Eyes Only".
I used to think I wanted a treehouse. I've changed my mind. I'm going to build a sweet fort on top of a badland hill accessible only by rope.
After six hours of hiking between monasteries (Nolwenn laughing at my accent as I tried to learn French words) and exploring them in 37 degrees, we were pooped! A cold beer on a scorching hot day really is delicious...I never understood this concept at home.
Our little 'family' went for an amazing supper, a great deal - €10 for a glass of wine, two types of salad, bread, a pork dish and fruit platter. Great visits and lots of laughs were had in the past couple of days. I am thankful and so blessed to have met so many amazing people in my journey!
- comments
auntie char just got caught up on your blog...never a dull moment! your experiences will enrich your life forever. love
Linda Williams So beautiful Larae
Ilias a very good blog I have to say...there is just one problem...either you are too slow writing it or I was too fast reading it...I finished all of it in 7 hours :-) Enjoy the rest of the travel and stay safe!
glenn amazing people and places you have come across ray....cathy and I are talking more about backpacking than heading to the beaches and just sitting back...place safe