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First impressions of Fiji
Having flown in all the way from Singapore via Auckland I was pretty washed out by the time I reached Nadi, Fiji's gateway airport on the west side of the main island Viti Levu. However, as always it's amazing how much difference 7 hours in a comfy bed can make; the next morning found me standing on the main road bright and early waiting for the bus to Pacific Harbour. Winding through the sugar cane fields with the molasses-rich smell in my nose I knew I was somewhere special and definitely very different from South East Asia! Passing through small towns I became very aware of the ethnic variety of this island nation; in addition to indigenous Pacific islanders there were Indian, White Fijian and even Chinese faces looking back at me, all with a big smiles... which made ME smile ☺ As my bus followed the Queen's Highway along the Coral Coast, the road began to meander along beautiful bays and over headlands with wonderful views; some say the best of Fiji is away from the main island... if this is the case it must be pretty damn special!
Pacific Harbour/Oceanus Resort
By ringing a little bell, one of those you have on a bicycle, I got my driver to drop my off "on the other side of the little white bridge" in Pacific Harbour. A laid-back town consisting of a little resort and private houses owned by the ex-pat community. The whole place have what I would describe as a colonial feel to it. I quickly found Club Oceanus, the most chilled resort in town, and dropped my bags. Next to the resort is a river disappearing inland, and I wanted to follow it! You've got to love mangroves! Crazy crabs with one tiny claw and one massive multicoloured claw hanging out on the roots. Pretty birds hunting for dinner on the mud-flats and tempting little off breaks in the river just waiting further exploration... Drifted downstream before sunset I watched the flying foxes fly overhead on their nightly search for fruit and bugs. Happy days, I'm in love!
The Shark dive (sorry for all the exclamation marks, but it was a really f****** cool dive (!))
I can't explain the amount of adrenalin and butterflies that built up over night. Sleep was not coming to me. I was ready to dive a dive that I've heard tales about for years! Early next morning I headed out with Aquatrek Divers to do the famous Beqa Shark dive. Only 15 minutes from harbour the engines dropped, we moored and the first of what can only be described as big green garbage bins full of tuna heads went overboard. We were then given a full briefing by Brandon, the South African manager and originator of the dive, he was talking about big sharks, and more big sharks, how they act and how we should act. "Thank you very much, can we jump in now?!" My heart was skipping beats with excitement... and a little fear...
As I entered the water I realised how special this was going to be; at the bottom several nurse and lemon sharks over 2m long was playing with the bins. I've seen many sharks before, but I always get amazed about how cool they are when they are really big and in your face. Like with many things in life, the thought is much scarier than the reality.
Descending to 18, in a cloud of 1m Giant Trevally was a good start to a good show. We took up our positions kneeling along a rope at 22m. The attentive staff was armed with long shepherd sticks to keep more inquisitive sharks away as Brandon and his assistant opened the first bin... and oh holy F***! Chaos..(!) The trevally turned into a tornado of flashing silver and black while larger shapes moved in and through the mass... and then after 5 minutes the crowd parted as the first Bull arrived... nearly 3m of muscular powerful fish focused on just one thing... a tuna head 3m from my head! The world (and my heart) stopped as it fetched and crushed it between its jaws right in front of me... I wouldn't call myself religious, but that almost got me believing that there is someone up there, granting good kids good times!
The first bull that opened the party was followed by another bull and another... and another... and then a fast, curious silvertip... Who took a liking to me and started circling as I moved a little away from the line. But I've gotta give it to the shepherds on this dive, they have it all under control... All too soon the staff signalled that deco was approaching; lucky they did as I'd not looked at my computer once - pretty weak for an instructor with over 1500 dives! Never have I been so annoying on a surface interval before... is it time? No... Is it time now, should I kit up? ... No... What about now? ... NOOO! Second dive was just as crazy as the first, and I have made a promise with the best part of me to come back and do this dive several times again.
Fiji ROCKS!
Read more about this destination at the Blue Venture Diving website - www.blueventure.net
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Photo credit Hey Maria, Where is the photo credit you promised me? Drew