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Another week has whizzed by in a blur, and I can`t believe that I will be leaving Cuzco in a few days time. I`ve fallen in love with the city and it`s people, and will be sad to leave my host family and some great new friends. Time seems to have taken on a different tempo, and I`m hoping that the rest of my trip doesn`t pass by so quickly.
The weekend was filled with visits to local archeological sites and markets, using the Boleta Touristica which allows access to the main ruins and museums in the area.
The highlight of the week was the Lares Trek to Machu Pichu. After a very early start, and an eye-watering drive up into the mountains on a steep, narrow road which wound it`s way higher and higher, passing llama`s grazing in the hills, crossing fords which threaten to wash the road away, and passing trucks on precarious bends (crash barriers haven`t caught on here yet...), we arrived in a little village for breakfast and in time for un poco comprado at the local market. I bought myself a bambo walking stick, which soon became my best friend (sorry girls, you`re demoted) and was promptly christened Amarillo after it`s yellow tapestry top. That stick was a godsend, and saved me from slips and falls on many occassion. Best five soles ever spent!
The trek started near a little local school in the Quiswarani community, high up in the Andes, and miles away from the trappings of civilisation as we know it. The children were reticent to begin with, but soon gained confidence and came to chat when we handed out coloured pencils and bouncy balls, which were soon flying everywhere.
Following narrow trails frequented by locals and llamas, we walked steadly uphill through stunningly beautiful countryside, to the Qewna-Qocha pass, where after a steep climb we were rewarded with the view of a saphire coloured lagoon and snow capped mountains in the distance. Lunch was a much needed and amazing affair of soup and garlic bread, followed by a mixture of delicious hot local dishes. It was truely incredible what quantity and range of food could come out of such as small tent! Once energy was restored, we continued hiking up towards the 4400 metre Hualacajasa pass, getting to know each other inbetween gasping for breath as the path got steeper and the air thinner. There was a feeling of juibilation as we made it up and over the top, and looked down at the beautiful vista of hills, streams and clear blue sky, far away from traffic and roads, with the only sounds being the birds, running water and the wind.
The walk downhill to the campsite passed a stunning waterfall, and Llama`s grazing in the fields. Local children came out to meet us, and a little Cechuan boy gave me a little yellow flower. It was a welcome relief when the campsite came into view, and even more so when we were greeted with hot chocolate, cookies and pop corn! Following a delicious supper, a sleepless and freezing night was spent in the tent, despite me wearing nearly every item of clothing I posessed. Getting up at 5am was almost a welcome relief, just to get more hot food and warm up!
The second day of the hike was the hardest, with two high passess of waiting to be crossed. Starting at the Cuancani community, we were welcomed into the home of a local family, who lived as their predecessors had for hundreds of years, in a single roomed stone house, with guini pigs roaming loose on the floor, llama wool hung over the rafters to provide the children with a bed at night, and cooking utensils hung on pegs on the walls.
The walk passed the Ipsay Qocha lake, and wound it`s way along the hillside, passing ancient stone houses and enclosures, crossing streams, and passing local families sat on the wayside making beautiful textiles. Miles away from the trappings of modern life, the people looked happy and serene, despite probably working physically much harder than than we would ever know.
Shortly heading off to school to meet friends for lunch, so more later....
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