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Drive day, we have way too many of these….We are heading to El Calafate, but that is multiple kilometers away and a border crossing into Chile, then a boat ride and then another border crossing, joy of joys.
The fan belt is making some strange noises so the first hour of the day is spent searching for a garage with the appropriate replacement, alas we are out of luck, so we head out of Ushuaia. For the first time since we got there, it was a glorious day and you could marvel as to wonder that was the End of the World.
The drive was okay, I nabbed the front seats so I could put my ever hopeless leg on the front bar the cab is open to where the driver sits, so plenty of room to stretch out. Strangely enough I didn't get a huge amount of sleep as I spent too much time staring out of the window, also with all the stops and starts there wasn't too much time to nod off.
We had lunch on the Argie side of the border at San Sebastian whilst we waited for the other Drago truck to swing by and drop off a spare fan belt. It was then time to throw away all fruit, veggie and meat products since we were heading back into Chile.
The border crossing was fairly painful. Although firstly they said they only wanted our day bags, the nice guards changed their minds and we then had to trudge our back packs through security. I was completely unimpressed with having to carry my 25kg back pack around on my bad knee, but needs must. Apparently I was carrying some kind of fruit in my bag so I had to empty it out, dirty knicks and all. Low and behold no disease infested fruit, merely some rolled up water proof trousers.
Nearly everyone was back on the truck when there was a slight mishap, Paul had inadvertently forgotten about an orange he'd stashed. His concern was that he could have eaten it, rather than the amount of trouble he could actually have been in. With some swift talking, Mick managed to take control of the situation.
A short drive and we were at our next overnight camp - when they said we were staying near the border, they really meant near the border, about 150 metres from it. It was one of those desolate places that you wind up your windows, lock your doors and drive straight through in the hope that no axe wielding maniac tries to invite you back to their house. Having said that we decided on the upgrade (from camping on any random patch of grass) to a cutesy little room that you might stay at round your grandma's, quilted bedspreads and the like. Luckily we did the upgrade, it was freezing that night and those that had stayed in the tents struggled to take them down after the zippers were frozen.
Back onboard the truck and it's time for another short drive, then onto a vehicle ferry. This time the ride only lasted a half hour and it wasn't much of a view. The biggest event was the Chileans talking on tv about how Ricky Martin has come out (this seemed to be quite a shock to the locals).
More truck time, onto the Argie border. This one was a bit better than the previous borders, everything was in one building (ie: both the Chilean and Argie controls) and we didn't need to check our bags through the x-ray machines.
We rolled into El Calafate mid afternoon. A quick dinner at a pizzeria of sorts then a few drinks at the LibroBar (book bar), home by midnight.
The next day we headed off to see the epic Puerito Moreno Glacier. Whilst the others did a quick hour's walk, the other cripple and I spent some time in a car park staring at the glacier and talking to the bus driver, which is always entertaining when our Spanish is fairly horrific and his English was limited.
After the others finished, we headed down to the proper lookout point. In all it's glory, the glacier moves two metres each day, but at the same time two metres of it falls off. The glacier is just spectacular and the sound that it makes when a piece of ice falls off is immense, it's like someone has let off a stick of dynamite. Unfortunately I didn't get to see any major pieces falling off completely, but just the arse end of one - you hear the noise and then you have to quickly figure out where it's coming from before the ice slides into the lake.
To get up close and personal to the glacier, we took a boat ride down to the face of the north side. The sheer size of it is amazing, it would have been 60 or so metres high.
After a bit of a snooze on the bus on the way home, it was time to get dressed up and go for a flash meal. We are making the most of being in Patagonia and in Argentina by having as much wine and meat as possible. In a few weeks we'll be in Bolivia and they definitely aren't know for those two things. The nice food may have been wasted on us because we particularly enjoyed the wine a little too much. Off to the Libro Bar again, we then wound up in a random club. My tour leader said travelling was all about meeting the people and interacting with them, so that's what I did. It's amazing what a big attraction blonde hair is, for it's part, I was surrounded my locals who wanted me to go to a party with them, but being the good girl I am, I stuck with the group I was with.
The next day was a day of doing nothing, well I did the kitty accounts for the truck - nothing like a bit of hungover reconciliations to keep your mind active. The day also consisted of a trip to the supermarket and watching a couple of videos on my laptop. That's one thing that I really miss, is the ability to just have a vege out day.
Time flies, but it's back on the truck again. The next two days are going to be worse than the drive days to El Calafate because it will be just driving and next to no breaks. Our destination is Barriloche, the Chocolate Capital of Argentina.
I spend both days rugged up either snoozing or listening to my ipod. Day one is mostly on gravel roads, so it's tough going. Our overnight stop prior to getting to Barriloche is yet another little Hicksville place, ironically named Puerito Moreno, like the glacier, but so not on the same level of beauty. Also it's six hundred kilometres from the glacier. Di has gone back to sharing a tent with Lou, so I'm on my lonesome again, but it's okay, I'll cope.
Day two of driving - 700 kms of road the first 100 or so kms is gravel and the rest is supposed to be tarred but it seems that the Argentinians are having a field day with road works so we end up doing a lot of driving on gravel roads next to partially tarred roads. We finally get to Barriloche after 8pm. It's truly the resortiest place of Argentina, the drive through town along the lake to our camping ground, was past mainly 4 and 5 star looking accommodations. I'm getting used to upgrading, but this time round I felt the need to have a place totally to myself and so instead of paying the normal 10-15 pounds, the cabin is costing about 55 pounds, however it's 20 metres from the lake side and has a stunning view - worth every penny.
- comments
mils Perhaps it was your dirty knickers that smelt like fruit and that caused the issue... that would be a good thing! Dont be sad that you are on travels it is raining here- what a bore! ENJOY! xx
dibz knicks smell like roses as all good virginal knicks should :)
Luce Hey Debbs - keeping eating that cow meat 'cause they really love to eat guinea pigs from here on :) Sounds like you are having a ball - its a huge place so you will think a 24hr plane ride is bliss when you finish. Hi Mills - have been real lazy and haven't been in contact yet :( Smooches Luce & Geez
Mum & Dad Your trip sounds amazing. All that beef is good for your iron levels. You only need one glass of red a day for your heart though. Love Mum @ Dad xxxx