To avoid several immigration checkpoints we decided to take a ferry from Brunei back into Malaysia, via Pulau Labuan (duty free!). After a cheap hoegaarden on Labuan we were told that there were no more ferries but that we could take a speedboat instead and continue by bus to KK... After this hair-raising and back-breaking journey we eventually arrived in Kota Kinabalu, the capital of the state of Sabah, Borneo.

We were here stocking up on gear and high-energy snacks for a trek we booked to the summit of Mt. Kinabalu. Our first evening we spent eating phillipino seafood BBQ by the river. And the second, we attempted to watch a local cover band whilst joining screaming Malay guys watching the Indonesia vs. Malaysia football match, which was confusingly on at the same time and the same venue.

After spending a chilly night around the base of the mountain we set out on our mission to SE Asia's highest peak (4095m). Our guide Jerry was friendly if a little reserved. Together we clambered up the steep steps and rocks from lush rainforest through 'Lord of the Rings' style scenery to the rest stop at Laban Rata, 6km up. This sweaty part of the 2 day trek, which took us about 4 hours, was steep but managable although the air was noticeably thinner! We had to drink countless cups of tea and huddle together to keep warm in the evening as the heating and hot water were both on the blink. The second day started at a cripplingly early 2am as we donned our headtorches and gloves and set out for the summit. This was probably the most exciting part of the climb, using ropes to haul ourselves up the rockface in the pitch black with an unforgettable view of the stars - we could see a whole stretch of the milkyway and an eerie sight of the dimly lit town 1000's of metres below us.

We were very lucky with the weather, no rain and it was almost completely clear as the sun came up minutes after we reached the summit (see pics) aaaaah!. Though we could've admired the views all day, the freezing wind soon sent us marching back down to Laban Rata for more hot tea and a well-deserved breakfast. Now the way down really screwed us over. The last 2km in particular, Rach's knees were giving up and she had to hobble like Bambi to get to the finish line! To make you feel just that bit more useless there's a sign on the way out, of the record times of the climbathon, where every year both men and women compete to run up and down the mountain. The men's record stands at 2hours 33minutes! Yes, that's up to the peak and down again!! Needless to say the next couple of days were spent staying very still...

Outside Kinabalu National Park we flagged a bus down to Sandakan in Eastern Sabah. From here we visited the Sepilok Orang-utan rehabilitation centre hoping to see some of Asia's only great ape. We were again lucky that 6 Orang-utans showed up for their morning feed, and especially lucky that on our way in an adult female came swooping out of the forest and plonked herself down on the walkway right beside us! We really enjoyed watching these docile animals swinging around on their seemingly interchangeable hands and feet. But it was a real shame to learn just how fast their habitat and numbers are dwindling. We also paid a quick visit to the rainforest discovery centre and spotted a few hornbills and a giant black squirrel before heading back to Sandakan.

On our quest to see more life in the wild we headed for the misty banks of the Kinabatangan river. From the lodge we took several boat trips over a couple of days and living amongst the trees were countless macaques, hareems of proboscys monkeys, red leaf monkeys, snakes, many species of hornbill and kingfisher, owls, and oriental darters (like swimming herons). Though we were a bit disappointed not to see the pygmy elephants that were recently spotted in the area, we felt extremely lucky to spot a Slow Loris ambling about his branch on the last night trip. These nocturnal animals are one of the rarest primates in the world and one of the most endangered species in Borneo (not to mention incredibly cute!)

A while back, a guy we met in Laos told us about Sipadan. A protected coral island that sits on a continental shelf, making it one of the best dive sites in the world, and its been on our route plan ever since. We chose to stay on the island of Mabul, close by to Sipadan, a little expensive but completely worth it. Rach completed her Advanced course here, and the diving around Mabul itself was amazing. We can't possibly describe everything we saw because there was so much, seahorses, frogfish, lionfish, crocodilefish, schools of squid, HUGE turtles etc... but we have to mention the pharoah cuttlefish, who inquisitively hover around you 'communicating' by rippling their sides and flashing different colours (2 came right up to my face!).

Then there was Sipadan.. The coral wall drops 600m below the water on one side of the island and between 1.5 -2km on the other! As soon as we descended, huge schools of jackfish, big barracuda, green turtles, reef sharks and giant bumphead parrotfish surrounded us. We had to fight against strong currents most of the day but thats what brings so much life to the area so we cant complain! On a single dive we saw several turtles and at least 10-15 sharks at their 'cleaning stations', and the island itself was a tropical paradise of white sand rippled with turtles tracks and big monitor lizards interested in our lunch! In addition to this, we helped the dive centre celebrate their 7th birthday party - all in all a very memorable few days to end our time in Borneo....