There's a word in Finnish called "väkisinmaata" ("lay someone by force"). That word would best describe what happened to me on our first day in Varanasi. As we arrive to Dasaswamedh Ghat, the main ghat, I'm offered a haircut, and I refuse. I refuse a shave as well, and the persistent guy reaches out his hand, as for to shake hands. I shake his hand, and he grabs my fingers with both hands and starts crunching them. "What's this?" I enquire, and from between his betel-covered orange teeth he spits: "massage". Before I understand anything, I'm laying on a platform made of wood, with two guys all over me, doing "Auyrvedic massage". Their grabs feel as if they know what they are doing, but it's impossible for me to relax and enjoy, being laid here unwillingly, and with bunches of passers-by stopping to wonder and laugh. I try to sit up put I'm constantly pressed back down, turned to my side, on my back, on my belly and on my back again. "This is my work", the older guy says: "You see my work". Finally he reveals that "Most people pay 400 rupee, some pay 500", and that I should "pay as I feel". I feel like hitting him in the nuts for a payment, but after a big hassle end up paying a hundred. I leave the ghat with a full-body massage and a total humiliation.