Here is a summary of our four day adventure to get to Luang Prabang in Laos. From Chiang Mai in Thailand there are many ways to do this as follows:

1. Take a flight (easy but expensive and great if short on time)

2. Let a tour company in Chiang Mai take you all the way for a high price

3. Find your own way through bit by bit!

Guess which one we went for - that's right option 3.

After saying goodbye to Graham at our hostel we checked out and headed to the bus station. The day before we had booked a bus to take us to Chiang Rai which is close to the border with Laos. It was called the "Green bus company" and was the best bus either of us has ever taken. We were met at the bus door by the hostess who welcomed us aboard and showed us to our allocated seat. Once the bus got going she came around and gave us our free chilled bottle of water and later on a bun filled with a red bean paste. The bus left bang on time and arrived exactly at 2pm when it was supposed to. So far this has never happened to us. The downside to our excitement was that we got off at the wrong bus stop (turns out there are two bus stations in Chiang Rai). However we managed to get a tuk tuk to the other bus station so that we could work out the next stage of our travels. This time there were no fancy buses to take us to the border and we could not book. We decided to spend the night in Chiang Rai and then travel across the border to Laos the next day. We easily found a reasonable hotel and subsequently collapsed into bed for an afternoon nap. Eventually we decided to get up and explore Chiang Rai a little bit. Next to our hotel was a temple. Whilst looking around a young monk came over to talk to me so he could practice his english. He asked what the temples in England looked like and I tried to explain that out churches tended to be quite plain in comparison made of brick or stone but no dragons or gold tiles, only the occasional gargoyle but this was pushing his english too far. After our nice chat Dave and I headed off to find food only we really struggled. The main streets seemed dead and dark. There were a couple of very expensive restaurants which we didn't want to try. There were also lots of large shops selling washing machines and hoovers but nothing inbetween. We headed off along a dark side street and found some bars. We walked along unsure of whether to try them but then our hunger kicked in and we sat down at a bar with several local women eating. It was quite dark and we were both unsure about how safe the food would be and so stuck to simple noodles. Our food came quickly but not from the bar, a woman had obviously brought it over from another restaurant somewhere. As we were eating we became aware that we were surrounded by many local women looking very dressed up and lounging around the bar but there were no other customers. Some men then began appearing with the women from behind a curtain - we ate quickly and decided this was not somewhere we wished to stay anymore! We felt slightly low about the lack of things to do in Chiang Rai and our rubbish dinner and were happy to leave the next day.

We were up early and had a quick breakfast before heading back to the bus station. Having seen the buses the night before we had spent the morning packing everything we could into plastic bags and securing our bags in a waterproof cover as we felt there was a good chance they would end up on the bus roof. We wanted to get a bus at 8 o'clock and found this one easily. We tried to ask someone if we could get on but no one was around and so we joined others already on one and managed to squeeze our large backpacks inside at the back. Feeling quite chuffed we settled into a seat under a fan. Dave went for a stroll and came back saying he had been told by a passerby that our bus was not now leaving until 9am (though scheduled to leave at 8am) and we should move to the one opposite going at 8.30am. By now we unfortunately have become very cynical and doubt anything we are told. We looked around. No one else was moving so we stayed put. The man then came over to us on the bus and said firmly that we really should move to the other bus (turns out this was the bus driver! Maybe we need to try and be more trusting again). So we moved and a few minutes after so did everyone else. Luckily we managed to squash our bags into the tiny luggage store under the bus. The journey was fun though. The bus left on time and with the windows open we were quite comfortable. Two hours later we arrived at Chiang Kong. When we got off the bus a tuk tuk driver came up and asked if we were wanting to cross the border. We took deep breaths ready to fight and haggle the price but he walked us over to a bill board with clearly written tuk tuk prices for each destination around the area. He pointed to the Thai immigration on the board and said the price - how organised! We jumped on and within minutes we were at the border. Now we were slightly nervous. We had read many things about this crossing and the problems and so we felt prepared for a bad morning. At this point we had got the bus at 8.30 and it was now about 10.45am. I say a border but what was actually there was a concrete road going down to the river and then a small hut on the left with a small sign saying immigration on it. So we headed off to it (we already had our stamp bribe money ready which we had been warned about - no exit stamp without an overtime fee!) We handed over our passports and the man slowly flicked through then stamped them and handed then back without really saying anything. We looked at each other thinking when do we pay but he waved us on. We went to the river edge and could see Laos on the other side. A man was sat at a wooden table and there were multiple small wooden boats at the waters edge. He gave us two tickets and we assumed we would wait for the boat to fill but he waved us straight on. We sat precariously on the narrow boat with our bags and within minutes we jumped off in Laos. There was a similar set up here with a small building for immigration. We had read complaints about there being huge queues and it often takes hours to get through. Well there was a tour group in front of us but that was just bad timing and they were almost through. We filled out the paperwork and leaned against the wall. 10 minutes later I heard my name being shouted and he handed me our passports all stamped and with a pretty full page visa as well in the passport. We then walked up the remaining concrete road and had to wave our passports at another official in a wooden hut who again lazily flicked through and asked where we were staying. We shrugged our shoulders and said we were off to find somewhere on the street. "Ok" he said and we were through in a total of 3 hours from Chiang Rai - easy!

We had arrived in the Laos border town of Huay Xai. From here there are several ways to get to Luang Prabang:

1. Take the sleeper bus at 5pm and enjoy being randomly flung out of the bed/chair by the bumpy roads

2. Charter an expensive minibus ticket (we had been told this has taken people 17 hours at times!)

3. Take a two day boat ride along the Mekong river stopping overnight at Pak Beng.

4. Travel 6 hours by speedboat and risk death (yes this has happened and is a serious warning due to the carelessness of the drivers hitting logs/rocks at high speed)

We really did not know which to choose. We had read reviews about the boats but all were dated 2008 and were pretty bad about the boat trips. We decided to spend the night in Huay Xai and go to the harbour to look at the boats for ourselves before deciding what to do. We came across a guesthouse that had a double room with aircon but the most amazing views over the Mekong River. The building itself was great in a French colonial style with high ceilings, white walls and dark wood furnishings. Huay Xai itself is based on one street. The river runs along one side and we walked along the road until we found the pier. At lunch the owner had been keen to take us in a tuk tuk claiming it was a long way at least 30 minutes and we would "die" from the heat - well we thought we would risk it and 10 minutes later were at the boats! We asked if we could go up to the boats and have a closer look. We found the one going the next day and they were busy cleaning it and stocking up on goods. There were many seats which were like airplane seats. We decided then that we would take the two day boat and went to speak to a woman who clearly hated her job to get tickets. All sorted we sat in a bar overlooking the river to relax now our decision had been made. Heading back to our guesthouse we walked past several stalls but one really attracted us due to the sheer determination of the couple. When we walked past we heard them shouting at us to buy sandwiches for the boat. As we turned they jumped up with multiple handwritten signs on cardboard shaped like hands and proceeded to go through them all. Such as "Stop and look we can supply all your needs" and "sandwiches for special price". They offered to make us sandwiches to collect the next day for our lunch on the boat. We couldn't say no after their effort but also because they had nutella and banana sandwiches, also they didn't want the money until the next day when we collected them which was reasonable. We had an early night after all our exertion and planning ready for the boat the next day.

There have been many reviews about problems of the boat journey:

1. There are only wooden benches on some boats

2. the capacity is 70 people but it usually takes 100-120 and there are not enough seats for everyone and therefore is unsafe and overcrowded (the reason being that lots of people and tours try to do the Laos crossing and get on the boat in one day).

3. In the past some have sunk due to overcrowding

4. At Pak Beng the locals jump on the boat and run away with the luggage

5. The landing at Pak Beng is a mound of rocks and hard to negotiate in the dark

6. There have been reports of thefts from the guesthouses at Pak Beng

So as you can imagine we were slightly nervous and despite having a ticket we were there 2 hours early to make sure we got a seat. Once on board we found that there was allocated seating and we were "1 and 2" the first on the boat. We explored and found in total 104 allocated seats. There was also a toilet that flushed and a bar. So far not too bad. Unfortunately our seats were next to the toilet and the bar but we didn't care at least we had them! Slowly the boat filled and once it was full they then chartered a second boat to take any more passengers left over. Then a man came on about 11am. He stated that the boat never leaves on time and today would leave at 12.30 instead of 11am. Also the accommodation at Pak Beng was full except his hostel (surprise, surprise) which had only five rooms left and that he could change US dollars for a fair price as no one will take them in Laos. He was right about the time we left at 12.24pm. However he was lying about everything else. We ignored him and waited until we got to Pak Beng to find somewhere to stay but did mean we spent the next 5-6 hours uncomfortable and nervous about where we would sleep that night. Once going however the boat was fine. The views were just amazing as we made our way along the Mekong river passing small bamboo villages on the river with a backdrop of enormous forest-clad mountains. We happily ate our nutella and banana sandwiches at lunch. As darkness came we finally arrived at Pak Beng. Chaos then descended as no one had quite been ready to arrive, the boat was small and full with over 100 people and all the bags were in a store chamber at the back of the boat! Dave and I saw a clear process but not many others did. We saw people fighting and pushing to get to the back of the boat which was never going to work. Eventually after some shouting from us and a few others we persuaded people to form a chain and pass the bags one by one along the boat until they found its owner - much more sensible and it did eventually work.

At the landing was actually a floating plastic jetty but it was still hard to negotiate walking off the boat along a narrow wooden plank as both the boat and jetty moved and with a heavy backpack but we made it without getting wet. As we got onto the road a woman came up to us offering a room in a lodge for $10. This seemed reasonable and so we followed her. The room was brilliant. It was a bamboo bungalow with a fan, en suite with a beautiful bathroom, mosquito net and windows onto the Mekong River. We took the room and went to pay. We told the owner the price we were given and he said through gritted teeth that we had a good deal as the price was 50% lower than it should be! We also negotiated breakfast and a packed lunch of fried rice for the next day's boat journey. We had a quick wander around the tiny town and ate a surprisingly good indian meal. We then snuggled into the very comfy bed safe and sound beneath the mozzy net but still wound up and anxious about the next day.

When we woke up Dave threw open the large windows and we had a fantastic view of the Mekong River. I remember brushing my hair looking at a reflection of it in the mirror and thinking that this scene was what I had always imagined when I thought of travelling in Asia. Whilst I was in the bathroom I heard a strange sound and shouted to Dave that I thought I heard an elephant. He laughed at me quietly and then it started again but louder. The next thing I knew he was shouting at me to get out of the bathroom and look out of the window. There, on the opposite bank, were three elephants having a drink in the water with their owners (called Mahouts).

By 8am we were back on the boat (it was a different one to the previous day). This time there was no allocated seating and we were glad to be there early. People streamed on and it filled up but nearly 30-40 people were still on the jetty. They made pleas for a second boat but the locals refused. 10-15 minutes later after stalemate there was a large cheer from the jetty and a sudden amount of activity. The locals had given in and chartered a second boat. Eventually we were off and we both let out a huge sigh of relief - we were nearly there! We overheard peoples' tales of Pak Beng and two girls said how they had gone back to their room to find their bags had been gone through and clothes stolen. Luckily they hadn't left any valuables. We felt lucky to have found the Mekong River Lodge. Time passed slowly and our legs began to seize up but we still enjoyed the views of the Mekong River. At 5pm we arrived at Luang Prabang. This time the bags were at the front of the boat and it seemed calmer than the night before. We needed to find a room and we followed a guy up into the town to view a guesthouse. It seemed to be in a quiet area and the woman that owned it was very cheerful and so we agreed to stay. This time we had a view of the wall but we didn't mind - we had finally made it after four days of travel.

So we took the slowest and more tricky route but were really glad to have done it. Flying would have been quicker but more expensive and we would never have seen so much of the Mekong River and its spectacular views. The boat trip is an adventure and quite stressful at times but probably one of the things we will remember the most from our travels in Aisa. Now all we had to do was relax and explore Luang Prabang.

Lots of love

David and Brenda xxx