23:45
Pablo Francisco was the soundtrack of the day today. The Mexican stand-up gave us belly laughs and guffaws all the way from the old gloomy Nærøfjord territory to Tvinde Camping, 25 beautiful miles south. I pleaded God for sunshine and it came, briefly.

We both woke up at 10:45am - Ben because he needed rest after three tough nights sleep in the car, and me - well... because I didn't want to face the oppressive, grey, towering hurricane-tunnel that was the setting of Vang Camping. I had a dream I pulled out a white hair from my neck and it turned out to be a bone. I woke up. I told Ben later in the afternoon that Nærøfjord was my lowest point - I tried to feel at home but there was no way, it was like the whole of Valhalla Rising (fitting, considering its a Viking film), and anyone who's seen that knows the setting is a metaphor for purgatory. Purgatorial - the best word.

We packed our stuff and left the grass-roofed cabin for the Viking Centre down the road, which had wifi and hot chocolate - two signs that we'd left purgatory (although the two coaches of Japanese tourists has made me question whether or not we've been in purgatory this whole time). I read my book for an hour or so, and then went to the gift shop where there was actually some pretty cool stuff.

Then we took off south for Tvinde Camping where we were greeted with the biggest mother of waterfalls I ever did see! We took pics, rented a cabin (bigger than Nærøfjord by 50%) at 450 NOK and set off for the town of Voss where the sun came out and gave us some amazing pics of a church and a field against the lake and a man playing with his dog (which he promptly told off for being a hysterical nutjob around me). Stupid beast. We went back to the campsite, made dinner, went back into Voss to use a hotels wifi, then came back to the campsite to watch Peepshow and go to bed.

I got high on having warm, dry feet today. Such a thrill. Shouldn't have to say that about a holiday but you don't get even close to the views in purgatorial Nærøfjord that you do in purgatorial Tenerife or hellish Benidorm!

Financial fail of the day:
£1.08 for a 4 minute shower